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Old 09-13-2016, 11:56 AM   #1
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Default battery isolator replacement

Seems that my Sure Power 16023A is done.

I am now working in EU, before leaving home the other day with coach battery switched "off", I disconnected my chassis battery and...the underhood light stayed on! ...running off the shore power.


When i get back home I'll get into it but first suspect is the battery isolator.


the 2006 Pleasure-Way Lexor ( Chev) has a stock electrical system- nothing special or added ( like solar or extra batteries).

another SP16023A would be easy in terms of cabling and mounting- a direct easy swap.

What is a suggested battery isolator- anything better come up in the 10 years since my van was built?



Thanks, Mike
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:03 PM   #2
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Other members here will know what the latest & best units available are. My understanding is that those traditional isolators tend to cause a significant voltage drop at the house battery.

I'll chime in with the low cost Aopec unit I installed: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...lled-3409.html

The advantages would be insignificant voltage drop if any, bi-directional so both the house and chassis batteries charge when plugged in or on solar etc. With my clamp-on ammeter, I measured 0.25A to 0.28A current draw when engaged (cut in 13.3v / cut out 12.8v). You can use a switch to break/make the tiny gauge ground wire to manually disengage the house and chassis batteries if/when desired. (that's contrary to what Aopec told me in an email - but I clearly hear the "clunk" sound caused by the unit engaging/disengaging when I use the switch I installed)

It's rated 140A so only good for appropriate capacity systems.

I didn't know much about the brand before I bought it or even now but it is still working and price was pretty nice for the feature set.
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:40 PM   #3
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I have two of these sitting on my shelf used, but now unused:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

They use a bit of power when combined at 175ma but only 15 when open. 120 amp continuous rated. They are nice because they have an input that will force them open to disconnect the coach if the batteries are full. You just use a switch and put 12v on the input.

$20 apiece plus shipping? or whatever
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:57 PM   #4
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Thanks but the BlueSea are under-rated for my alternator

Mike
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Old 09-13-2016, 05:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
Thanks but the BlueSea are under-rated for my alternator

Mike
I don't know Pleasure-way wiring, but many B's have 80 amp breakers in the coach to engine cable, which would be 4 gauge. That would limit what you put through the separator to the 80 amps. That is how our Roadtrek was wired and breakered.
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Old 09-14-2016, 05:15 AM   #6
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Very simply, MOSFET based isolator from Perfect Switch is what's in my Sprinter. Seen them on Newell Coaches too. Far better than mechanical switches and not like the old diode style isolators....these have essentially no voltage drop. www.perfectswitch.com
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:51 AM   #7
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This needs further investigation.

Pulling the terminals shows signal between the A and batteries 1 and 2 and signal between E and A- so that all checks out.

Reconnecting everything as of today shows normal operation ( No power to chassis with chassis battery disconnected)- so no underhood light on by itself

As expected power at #2 terminal from aux battery ( switched off) when shore power is connected.

I will be looking further.

Mike
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
I have two of these sitting on my shelf used, but now unused:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

They use a bit of power when combined at 175ma but only 15 when open. 120 amp continuous rated. They are nice because they have an input that will force them open to disconnect the coach if the batteries are full. You just use a switch and put 12v on the input.

$20 apiece plus shipping? or whatever
Hey booster I am interested in these. I tried to send a PM but it is not showing it sent. PM me. Thanks.
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Old 09-24-2016, 08:53 AM   #9
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Found the cause of the initial under hood light on with battery disconnected!

I had a battery trickle charger on my chassis battery- and shore power connected- even though the battery negative was disconnected...the battery was "seeing" chassis ground through the 2 extension cords plugged into my house...

I put a grey ground lift on my trickle charger and the underhood light and chassis have no power to them anymore.

So there is/was no problem with my isolator

duh!

Mike
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Old 09-24-2016, 11:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkguitar View Post
Found the cause of the initial under hood light on with battery disconnected!

I had a battery trickle charger on my chassis battery- and shore power connected- even though the battery negative was disconnected...the battery was "seeing" chassis ground through the 2 extension cords plugged into my house...

I put a grey ground lift on my trickle charger and the underhood light and chassis have no power to them anymore.

So there is/was no problem with my isolator

duh!

Mike
I have never checked to see if a charger has the 12v negative tied to the safety ground. It never occurred to me that it even might be. I wonder is most/all chargers do that.
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