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Old 07-12-2018, 02:18 PM   #1
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Default Battery won't stay charged

I have a 98 Roadtrek 200. Replaced Alternator and battery still won't stay charged. The voltage regulator is in the alternator. I had the old alternator and new alternator tested. When tested in the vehicle both say faulty voltage regulator. When tested the alternators out of the vehicle, they best test okay. I'm thinking a short in wiring. Anyone else had this problem that could offer some advice. Thanks
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:26 PM   #2
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I'd start the troubleshooting by testing the isolator.


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Old 07-12-2018, 03:43 PM   #3
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Thank you for the response. I will have my hubby check that out. Much appreicated
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:49 PM   #4
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Not sure if we have a battery bank. Have the main battery and the other battery in back of camper is auxiliary battery
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:48 PM   #5
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Battery bank 1 would be the starting battery where the engine is and battery bank 2 would be the auxiliary / house battery at the back of your Roadtrek.
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:28 PM   #6
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Here are a two helpful documents re: trouble shooting isolators

isolator sp1.pdf


Battery_Isolator_Trouble.pdf

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Old 07-12-2018, 09:11 PM   #7
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Thanks for quick response. Wasn't sure how this multiple battery thing worked. We did find the Isolator battery bank.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:31 PM   #8
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We are having the same issue with our 2001 Ford Econoline Sportsmobile. DH used a voltmeter to check where the leak was coming from by pulling each fuse one by one. Turns out the leak is the radio/clock. Haven't figured out why, or how to fix it yet, but our temp solution is to pull the fuse when we stop overnight (or altogether if yu don't listen to it while driving)
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justme View Post
We are having the same issue with our 2001 Ford Econoline Sportsmobile. DH used a voltmeter to check where the leak was coming from by pulling each fuse one by one. Turns out the leak is the radio/clock. Haven't figured out why, or how to fix it yet, but our temp solution is to pull the fuse when we stop overnight (or altogether if yu don't listen to it while driving)
Is the radio/clock the only device supported by this fuse? If so there is something awry with the radio/clock which when turned off shouldn't have a parasitic draw more than a 100 milliamps or so.
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:34 PM   #10
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cruising7388 - thanks - I will definitely pass this info on to him. I believe that it is just the radio. We are pretty clueless when it comes to electrical issues and I would not be adverse to replacing this radio
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:59 PM   #11
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cruising7388 - thanks - I will definitely pass this info on to him. I believe that it is just the radio. We are pretty clueless when it comes to electrical issues and I would not be adverse to replacing this radio
The radio, so far, is obviously a reasonable suspect but there may be other possible causes before assuming this. Sportmobile may have other devices looking at that fuse. Below is a link for a useful and cheap tester that will conveniently show you what amperage is being pulled from the fuse. With this in place, you can experiment with different conditions, i.e., radio on and off, radio sound volume high and low and also with the radio power plug disconnected to see if the fuse is still looking at a load.

https://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp...ter-67724.html
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Old 07-20-2018, 01:47 AM   #12
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We replaced the Isolator and that fixed the problem. Thanks again for all the great info
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:38 PM   #13
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I recently replaced the isolator on my '96 Roadtrek to solve my draining problems.
Additionally, I'm not positive, but I think the main light switch up front that has a left position, a dimming zone and a right position is problematic. When set all the way to the left (counter clockwise), I get a battery drain even though I have no idea why. Even the manual warns against this because of something called an "ignition light". (I'm guessing the lit plastic ring around the ignition key.. but mine has no light that comes on.) A mystery.
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