Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-15-2016, 10:04 PM   #1
Gold Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S New Mexico
Posts: 83
Default Failed '95 Dometic gas/elec Select switch - Solutions?

Sometime in the last year the Dometic RM2310 in my '95 Roadtrek Pop. stopped working on both 12v and 120v: it still works on propane. I am told by the service shop that the complex power source selector switch has failed: this diagnosis needs to be verified, there are other possibilities, I think. The complex replacement switches are no longer available from Dometic. I can limp along on Propane for a while, but I really value the 3-way power option.

I am wondering if it is practical (and advisable) to bypass the rotary switch which chooses between these functions for the 12v and 120v power sources, adding toggle switches (one would have to be careful not to have more than one power source on at once.) I have the wiring diagram.

I have already spent too many $$ fixing unforeseen problems on this RV to want to replace the refrigerator, unless a new one offers substantially better cooling in all modes.

My Dometic IS pretty anemic: if I got mine running again, fully serviced, and made all the improvements to it suggested by Red Rover*, I doubt it's performance would be that that much improved. (It gets up to 115*F here in S. NM, and although I head to cooler climes to camp, everything will likely be thawed by the time I arrive, and won't refreeze.)

One of Red's suggestions is to add an outside air scoop to create a ram effect to improve cooling. At what outside air temperature would this device become detrimental? I doubt 115*F would be helpful.

And is this mod. safe if cooling with propane while driving?) Some people never use propane while driving, suggesting at least a perceived risk.

* http://www.davewhitmore.net/RTModsImprovements%20to%20our%20Roadtrek%20190%20P opular%208-20-12.pdf


Dometic offers the RM2351 as a replacement for $600 + $150 shipping + installation, but I don't know if it cools any better than the one I have. Anyone familiar with it?

Is there something better? Must be absorption type, and run on at least 120v AND Propane. (The unit dimensions are about 29-3/4" hi x 20-1/2" w x 21-3/8" deep: no room fore something larger).

Perhaps this inquiry should be posted on a more general RV forum, if there is inadequate response here. (Not that in my experience Class B Forum folk lack in good suggestions!!! )

Thanks for any suggestions for repair or replacement.
__________________

__________________
Crank

Seeking Knowledge, Dreaming of Wisdom
Crank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2016, 12:37 AM   #2
Platinum Member
 
markopolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 6,990
Default

Re: the part - it would look something like this: Dometic Refrigerator Switch RM2410-2810 - Electrical Components - Refrigerator Parts - Refrigerators - RV Appliances

That's what I find for my 2410. This site - Laurelhurst Distributors Parts Breakdown - Dometic Refrigerators - seems to show the same part # for a 2310. It costs a bit too much to buy without visually confirming that it would fit.
__________________

__________________
'97 GMC Savana 6.5L Turbo Diesel Custom Camper Van: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/me...icture206.html
markopolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #3
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 93
Default

My suggestion is to replace it with an RM2354 3-way. You may need the door reversal kit and may have to change the DC wiring to handle 20 amps or so. The new one takes DC power (.5 amp?) to work so you need to allow for that. A 30 amp relay in the heater circuit controlled by alternator output would be convenient. No need to change anything when stopping for gas. You would have to do those mods yourself.
Harry 2003 C190P with an RM2354
hbn7hj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 02:39 AM   #4
Gold Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S New Mexico
Posts: 83
Default

hbn7hj, why do you suggest buying a new refrigerator (for over $800 shipped, door reversed, and installed)? Is it a significantly more efficient unit? That would be the only reason to upgrade, as I stated in my OP (unless the present problem is irreparable at reasonable cost, or not at all, of course). My present unit is 3-way so I should not need the wiring changes you mention.

I'd like to acknowledge a good suggestion, but I don't follow "A 30 amp relay in the heater circuit controlled by alternator output would be convenient." Which heater circuit [there are 2 in the refrigerator]? The alternator is only running when driving, and then it is powering the coach batteries, so how would this be useful?

My question was really about feasibility of bypassing the rotary mode switch IF it is really the problem and cannot be fixed.


MarcoPolo, thanks for the switch part number lookup and source suggestions. I did not find the exact right version in stock (2007432004B), but you are right - expensive!
__________________
Crank

Seeking Knowledge, Dreaming of Wisdom
Crank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 03:06 AM   #5
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 93
Default

([QUOTE=Crank;49563]hbn7hj, why do you suggest buying a new refrigerator (for over $800 shipped, door reversed, and installed)? Is it a significantly more efficient unit?)

No, it is not a more efficient unit. The present one is old and could fail anytime from internal corrosion. May as well accept it and replace it. (Just an opinion)

You put a relay in the DC heater circuit so that when the alternator is off the relay is open. Otherwise every time you stop you have to go to the back and turn the refrigerator off to stop the high DC current drain.

You could bypass the switch. I would rather have a refrigerator that works like it is supposed to.

The downside of the new refrigerator, other than cost, is that it draws current to run it's computer even when it is on propane.

I wired mine so that the refrigerator can get power with nothing else connected.
Harry
hbn7hj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 03:28 AM   #6
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 93
Default

I live in Phoenix where 115F is not unknown. I have had the refrigerator box get above 50F but I have never had the freezer get above freezing. Maybe your old unit is not cooling as well as a new unit.
Harry
hbn7hj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 02:33 PM   #7
Platinum Member
 
eric1514's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 451
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hbn7hj View Post
...
You put a relay in the DC heater circuit so that when the alternator is off the relay is open. Otherwise every time you stop you have to go to the back and turn the refrigerator off to stop the high DC current drain...Harry
I took your suggestion you made a few months ago and did this.

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f2...gain-5596.html

One of the most useful mods I've done.
__________________
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
eric1514 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 06:18 PM   #8
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 741
Default

sorry, my eyes glazed over at the post- did you check all the fuses?

my dometic has a fuse on the back side of the black plastic electrical box which is not easily seen.

are you sure that you are getting power?

Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2016, 06:23 PM   #9
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 741
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hbn7hj View Post
I live in Phoenix where 115F is not unknown...
i have written on modding mine with extra fans and can count on 60F cooling below ambient on propane or AC power in the lower fridge portion parked here in phx.

freezer always freezes.

with the manual in hand check the internal sensor location on the fins, check the gas portion ( stack) is clean, clean electrical connections for full power to the fridge.

i have 3 fans on the external cooling fans- 2 wired to a switch, a 3rd wired to a heat sensor. and a small fan internal to the fridge

Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2016, 02:29 PM   #10
Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 42
Default

Judging from the reference in the MarcoPolo reply, it is a rather good switch design. It is of open construction so you can take it out and analyze how it works (or repair it as it could be dirty contacts). It ad that MP referenced indicated that the switch is available from 3rd parties.

As to the fridge efficiency; hot temps definitely take a toll but, even a good flow of 115 air will help because the condenser temp is hotter than that. Also, do your best to insulate all sides/top/bottom of the fridge and take care to plug air leaks from the hot side around the case of the fridge. I use AL metal duct tape for this job.
__________________

JohnnyFry is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.