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Old 04-19-2017, 03:09 AM   #1
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Default GFCI Question

I noticed my GFCI reset button popped out and it won't stay pushed in. Do you need a specific one to replace it or will any ole home depot buy do the trick?

Also, could this be the reason my rig trips my GFCI in the house when I plug shore power in? I seem to recall hearing this could cause it to do so.

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 04-19-2017, 03:41 AM   #2
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.

Before you jump in to replace the GFCI receptacle,

I would recommend you to first get a GFI tester.
It is only ~$5 to $10 at HomeDepot or Amazon.

The problem could be a bad receptacle, or wrong wiring, or a fault (short) somewhere.

Lots of youtube videos on how to trace the problem.





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Old 04-19-2017, 05:20 PM   #3
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My 2005 RT 210 trips the house GFCI. Something about the Inverter connecting neutral to ground internally. I solved the problem by using an adapter that has only 2 prongs that plug into the receptacle eliminating the ground.
The GFCI receptacle in the MH won't reset if there is not power to it, either shore or generator.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano View Post
My 2005 RT 210 trips the house GFCI. Something about the Inverter connecting neutral to ground internally. I solved the problem by using an adapter that has only 2 prongs that plug into the receptacle eliminating the ground.
The GFCI receptacle in the MH won't reset if there is not power to it, either shore or generator.
When shore power is shut off, the connection of neutral to ground in the coach is OK but when shoreside power is connected, the neutral in the coach should disconnect from ground.

The 2 prong adapter you employ may eliminate triggering the GFCI but while you have eliminated the symptom, I don't think it has solved the problem.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:18 PM   #5
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::

The 2 prong adapter you employ may eliminate triggering the GFCI but while you have eliminated the symptom, I don't think it has solved the problem.

+1


... and it might present new ones.


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Old 04-19-2017, 07:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by saenzm View Post
I noticed my GFCI reset button popped out and it won't stay pushed in. Do you need a specific one to replace it or will any ole home depot buy do the trick?
Yes, they are all pretty much the same and under 10 bucks. You can get them at HD or Lowes in 15 or 20 amp versions but the 20 amp ones cost quite a bit more and is overkill for your application unless your controlling breaker is 20 amps. A nice feature in current GFI production is a little green LED in the upper corner of the GFI that lights off when power is present. which makes it easy to determine its status at night. If the LED is off, there is either no power applied or the GFI has tripped.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:30 PM   #7
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I think some clarification on the neutral bonding is necessary.

You cannot have neutral bonded at any place except at the AC source. In your house that source is way back at the main circuit panel where power enters the building.

In the van, you are not supposed to have any area of the van bonded to neutral except an AC supplying source, when it is supplying AC. So the generator would be bonded when running only (in reality some generators are always bonded, but the van doesn't see them because they are disconnected by the transfer switch when not running), and the inverter would only bond when it is on and there is no shore power available.

The inverter side is where it gets to be difficult, as there aren't a lot inverters that will automatically bond and unbond the neutral, especially with timing it so the unbonding happens before the shore power is actually connected to the van. It only really happens in the inverter chargers that also have a built in transfer switch for all of the AC for the van, and also have an automatic bonding switch. Our Magnum is set up this way.

Standalone inverters may or may not be bonded or have transfer switches, so you can wind up either bonded or not bonded whenever depending on conditions.

In a van, that has no earth ground reference, either way is not totally safe, as you can come up with scenarios that will make 110v show up on appliances or the van body, especially since most RV builders use the chassis for AC and DC ground plane. Having any kind of bonding in the van away from the power sources certainly does increase the hazard potential, I think. The thing to remember is that the main breaker panel is not the power source in an RV, the generator, shore power, or inverter are, so the main panel should never be bonded.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:05 PM   #8
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As I understood what was explained to me was that older inverters (Trippe) in my case are always bonded. I don't know how true.
For those of you who expressed concern, I subsequently ran a 10/3ga. wire with 30 amp breaker from the main panel to the MH shore power cable. It however does not incorporate GFCI protection either. But then neither do the hookups in RV spots. Correct?
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:33 PM   #9
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As I understood what was explained to me was that older inverters (Trippe) in my case are always bonded. I don't know how true.
For those of you who expressed concern, I subsequently ran a 10/3ga. wire with 30 amp breaker from the main panel to the MH shore power cable. It however does not incorporate GFCI protection either. But then neither do the hookups in RV spots. Correct?
The 30 amp connections are not GFCI, that I have seen, but the 20 amp ones are, and those are sometimes the only choice.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I solved the problem by using an adapter that has only 2 prongs that plug into the receptacle eliminating the ground.
Thereby creating another problem and bypassing the life safety device designed not to kill you.
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