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Old 01-15-2020, 05:52 AM   #21
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Back to the original question. In addition to the Newmar product mentioned by booster, they have another with an internal battery for those momentary no power events. It might be closer to what is needed for this application:

https://powerwerx.com/newmar-mdp-25-...s-backup-power

I would like to hear from anyone who has used it.
Impressive.

A cheaper voltage stabilizer will handle anything but generator start and sudden power failure from a battery doesnít happen like it does with 120 volt AC.

The hybrid battery system solves all your problems including the capacity one caused by running the fridge too cold. $1500 would fix you up-lithium battery, DC to DC charger and a switch. Donít forget a voltage stabilizer for the electronics and a battery monitor or two.

You would have to install it yourself. If you canít do that then get a voltage stabilizer for the electronics and turn Ďem off when you start the generator.

Or you could spend the money on the product mentioned.

I think we covered all your options.
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Old 01-15-2020, 06:50 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MobileCabin View Post
Back to the original question. In addition to the Newmar product mentioned by booster, they have another with an internal battery for those momentary no power events. It might be closer to what is needed for this application:

https://powerwerx.com/newmar-mdp-25-...s-backup-power

I would like to hear from anyone who has used it.
DUDE!

Do you have any idea how long, across how many RV forums, and how many google searches i've tried to find THIS EXACT THING?

Many thanks!
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:00 AM   #23
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I think we covered all your options.
I'm in awe.
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Old 01-15-2020, 11:00 AM   #24
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It's an interesting product for sure. The OP might need more than one though as he has indicated more than one problem. It doesn't have enough capacity to be a whole coach solution. And it's another battery that needs to be cared for. His existing batteries can be fully depleted by morning so this small 8 or 9Ah battery isn't going to help with that.

Is the proximate cause of the electrical problems actually dirty power or is it low voltage? Are the existing coach batteries near end of life?

What is the cause of the failed fridge controller boards? What is the operating voltage range for those particular boards? Is the wiring to the fridge undersized?
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Old 01-15-2020, 12:22 PM   #25
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It's an interesting product for sure. The OP might need more than one though as he has indicated more than one problem. It doesn't have enough capacity to be a whole coach solution. And it's another battery that needs to be cared for. His existing batteries can be fully depleted by morning so this small 8 or 9Ah battery isn't going to help with that.

Is the proximate cause of the electrical problems actually dirty power or is it low voltage? Are the existing coach batteries near end of life?

What is the cause of the failed fridge controller boards? What is the operating voltage range for those particular boards? Is the wiring to the fridge undersized?

Marko beat me too it, as I was thinking the same thing. There normally are not many things on a class b that would need server style backup capacity. Things like frig boards have come up over time and sometimes even have other than electrical causes like being loose, harness flop or pull, etc. Dirty power can be an alternator with a bad diode, even, or poor quality solar or shore charger.


Of course there can be exceptions like using a 12v native tv without the wall 110v brick, as that removes the tv's built in protection in most cases.



One thing that would be needed to be considered with the 25 amp unit linked would be that it's benefit will be reduced by some amount if it is used to stabilize all the coach power (25 amps may also not be quite enough) as UPS systems, by design and need, are point of use devices. They need to be right at the power use point to be the most effective. If you have more than one device downstream and wiring to run them, they will all still be talking to each other with any noise or fluctuations they generate, so you will not get rid of that side of the problem. For instance, if the heater in a 12v coffee maker clicks on and off in operation, it will send a spike on the line. A lot of 12v fans are variable speed now and do it with more efficient frequency drives. AC wiring can induce current in adjacent DC wiring.



I do think that when you look at dirty power in RVs you are much more likely to see the 110v AC with issues than the the DC side.
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Old 01-15-2020, 07:00 PM   #26
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Yeah, I'm not planning to use this for the whole RV, just the fridge, and a small electronics cabinet... Cell booster, WiFi amplifier, that kind of thing.

Someone above pointed out this would not be a lot of help if I ran my battery down, my beer would still be warm in the morning. This is true... although an extra hour or two may well be enough to get me through til the sun comes up at dawn. Obviously, the best solution here is learning how to work the RV (which I'm much better at than I was 2 years ago), and a lithium upgrade (I'll have to see how good my profit-sharing bonus is at my new job.)

(Edited to add: if you want to see how dirty 12V power can be, set a couple of strings of your LED lights to 50% brightness, and put an oscope on your 12V rails.
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Old 01-15-2020, 08:25 PM   #27
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You could use a battery with a power conditioner, although conditioners really aren't commonly found these days outside commercial use. There are 12 volt power conditioners.
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