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Old 03-06-2019, 08:45 PM   #1
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Default No 110 Volt Power on shore power or Batteries

Tried just about everything to find the problem, nothing yet.
Will look into what brand of inverter I have and maybe contact them.

Will check and see if I have 110 Volts out at the load side of the inverter to eliminate that the problem is the inverter or down the way to the electrical panel.

Anybody have this problem?

Steve
2017 RoadTrek CS Adventures XL 4x4 800 AH system.
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Old 03-06-2019, 09:32 PM   #2
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It might have a sticker with the name Microgreen on it - https://microgreensolarsolutionstoro...ault#ContactUs


Does one end of it look like this:


Yiyen AP series.jpg


If so, there are two breakers there that can be reset if tripped.
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Old 03-06-2019, 10:36 PM   #3
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markopolo
Somewhat like that. I have the output and input button and have pressed them but nothing, does not seem like they are tripped, soft to the touch.
My terminals are on the bottom. When the rain stop I am going out to see if I have voltage coming out of those terminals.
I have never had a problem with this. One day this week when I got home I plugged in the shore power (30AMP) and when inside to turn on the inverter and looked over and the MW clock was not lite. This is telling me no AC going to the MW. Tried the 800 AH with inverter on and still nothing to the MW.
I do not have power to the MV or any of the 110 volt outlets.
The search continues. I appreciate you help.
Steve
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:19 AM   #4
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Sounds like a tripped 120VAC circuit breaker (CB). I'm sure Roadtrek has them like all other RVs. There should be a 30A main CB and a sub panel for the inverter output.
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Old 03-07-2019, 06:03 AM   #5
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Box,
reset all breaker still no power.
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:40 PM   #6
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With goodtogo's Roadtrek, I think that it is more likely that 120v shore power comes into the coach and goes directly to the inverter. The inverter's internal transfer switch passes shore power on to the coach electrical panel if that power meets programmed criteria.

There are two problems with goodtogo's RV:

1. no shore power pass through
2. no inverter power

Both could be caused by a failed internal part of the inverter. Bypassing the inverter would confirm that everything else is good.
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Old 03-07-2019, 01:41 PM   #7
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Default No 110 Volt Power on shore power or Batteries

Quote:
Originally Posted by goodtogo View Post
Box,

reset all breaker still no power.

OK - time to start checking wires.

Edit: Just read markopoloís last post. Roadtrek wires 120V AC direct to inverter - wow! That doesnít sound safe to me. Iíll drop out of this discussion as I know nothing about Roadtreks.
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Old 03-07-2019, 02:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
OK - time to start checking wires.

Edit: Just read markopoloís last post. Roadtrek wires 120V AC direct to inverter - wow! That doesnít sound safe to me. Iíll drop out of this discussion as I know nothing about Roadtreks.

I had the same thought when I saw how Roadtrek was wired shortly after we got it. Shore plug/transfer switch/wire to the opposite side front of the van to the breaker panel. Other versions that used transfer switches inverter wired directly from the shore plug, as does ours with our upgrades.


In reality I don't think it is an issue because any power used to the shore plug will be fused at 30 amps or less, so within the capacity of the wiring to the inverter, so really no different than any other thing plugged in the wall outlet. The only time it would be an issue is if you used a 50 amp to 30 amp cheater plug, and that risk would only be if there was a short in the wiring between the shore plug and the 30 amp breaker in the panel or inverter. Even that short would have to over 30 amps but under 50 amps, so extremely unlikely to happen, I think.
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Old 03-07-2019, 02:19 PM   #9
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(typed while Booster was posting) These larger inverters are installed to power the entire 30A coach including the air conditioner. There's no real need for a sub panel if the inverter is used to power everything.

As for safety, you still have a breaker at the shore power source and another breaker at the inverter. Some installations have another standalone 30A breaker in the coach before the inverter.

goodtogo's wiring route likely looks like this:

30A shore breaker ----> 30A inverter breaker (line in) ----> 30A RV main panel breaker ----> individual 15A & 20A circuit breakers

Edit: just adding that an electronic interrupt can be in there also. The inverter checks for acceptable power before passing it through and that can include a user programmable current limit. I can limit the Samlex EVO in my Class A to not pass through more that 15A from shore power for example. That useful when plugged in at someone's house. The electronic interrupt goes offline very fast, faster than a breaker.

The line of protection with the EVO for example would look like this:
30A shore breaker ----> programmed or programmable electronic interrupt ----> 30A RV main panel breaker ----> individual 15A & 20A circuit breakers
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Old 03-07-2019, 03:20 PM   #10
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This seem to be my RT set up-30A shore breaker ----> 30A inverter breaker (line in) ----> 30A RV main panel breaker ----> individual 15A & 20A circuit breakers


I am plugged into my 30 amp outlet at my home. I think maybe I will look into programmable electronic interrupt and see if I have that set up in my inverter.

Thanks for all the input. Will keep updating if I find something.

Steve
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Old 03-07-2019, 03:25 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info on how the Roadtrek is wired. It works OK if you are using the inverter to power everything. On my Interstate the 2000W Magnum only powers a few outlets and the microwave.

With inverter passing all 120V AC power then it can become a single point failure. Sounds like that is what happened to goodtogo.
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Old 03-07-2019, 03:29 PM   #12
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goodtogo - With RV unplugged from shore and inverter off you could unplug the remote control wire from the inverter and then plug the inverter back to shore. If the inverter starts up that would let you know that the remote is causing the problem. With the remote unplugged you might have to power the inverter on by a switch on the inverter.
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Old 03-07-2019, 08:14 PM   #13
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I have no 110 Volt output at the inverter. Its fried.
The low voltage works fine, refer, lights and all DC equipment works fine.
I have a Microgreen Inverter, called them they do not have any or make them anymore.
I called KS2 inverter they said they make one that will work but is configured different for hook up. MG has DC one side and AC on the other end. KS2 has both DC and AC on the same side.

Looks like since I have no more warranty with RT, since they are belly up, I will have to replace it myself covering all the cost. To bad only little over a year old.


Steve
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Old 03-07-2019, 08:16 PM   #14
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Are you saying you have not 110v AC at the input or output of the inverter? If it is at the input, it would likely be something other than the inverter.
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Old 03-07-2019, 08:20 PM   #15
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I have 110Volt at the inverter input, nothing at output of the inverter
Steve
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:34 PM   #16
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Also be on the lookout for a short stop that is blown. There are lots of them (required for fire prevention) and not all of them self reset.

Short stops are like breakers, same function, and most of the time self reset when they get cold again (current heats them up and opens them).
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:34 PM   #17
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Thanks for the thought. This puppy's output 110 voltage is dead as a door nail.
I still can't decide what inverter to replace it with. Have done a lot of research, a lot of 3000 Watt sine wave inverter/chargers out there from $675 to $1,900.


I wish RT was still around to get some input and warranty coverage.

Steve
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
Are you saying you have not 110v AC at the input or output of the inverter? If it is at the input, it would likely be something other than the inverter.
Look at the photo of the output romex conductors. Note that the hot black lead and terminal are damaged but the white neutral is pristine. If this was caused by appliance overload or a dead short it would trip the breaker and in any event since the white neutral is a current conductor, it should also show signs of damage. I think this melt down was not caused by appliance problems but was caused by a high resistance black lead connection.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruising7388 View Post
Look at the photo of the output romex conductors. Note that the hot black lead and terminal are damaged but the white neutral is pristine. If this was caused by appliance overload or a dead short it would trip the breaker and in any event since the white neutral is a current conductor, it should also show signs of damage. I think this melt down was not caused by appliance problems but was caused by a high resistance black lead connection.

That kind of failure was mentioned by Continuous Improvement in his issues about Roadtrek inverters. He tracked it down to not having the clamping screws down tight.


Another issue that would show this kind of issue is if the neutral and ground are bonded upstream, which they aren't supposed to be, but we have heard of that error also. That way the neutral and ground share the load on the negative side so they see less current.


I would try going around that connector with a jumper and see if the inverter starts working.
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Old 03-14-2019, 08:28 PM   #20
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Inverters are a hard market to navigate. If you want good ones, I like Victron and Samlex, both American companies. I've been really happy buying from "Inverter Supply.".

BTW, Roadtrek skimps on the inverter/charger, if they gave you a warranty replacement, that'd be cool, but you wouldn't get high quality inverter.
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