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Old 05-04-2019, 03:34 AM   #1
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Default Onan 2800 Microlite Starting Issues

Hi all,

Newbie here hoping someone here can offer some good advice.

2004 Roadtrek 190 Popular, Onan 2800 Microlite generator.

Got stuck in a mud hole for a few days. The generator may have gotten the very bottom submerged, but not very high on the unit.

Will not crank at all from remote panel, or the switch on the generator. Figured the place to start would be the fuse on the generator. There is supposed to be a 5 amp fuse on the side of the control box. Like this



On my unit, there is just a hole in the right side of the control box where the fuse and fuse holder should be. There is a label with an arrow to where the fuse should be, so I am assuming the assembly got pushed back behind the cover of the control box?

I can see one screw on the right side of the control box cover that's a real pain to get to. If I can get that screw out, will I be able to get the cover off and get to the fuse assembly? Are there any more screws holding it on that I can't see? Trying to do this without dropping the generator and there is not much room to work.

Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2019, 12:53 PM   #2
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The circuit breaker switch on the side of the control panel is held in with two screws (I think they are Phillips head screws). ON position is up.

The control panel is is held on with two hex head screws at the bottom of the case. These are below the green cover. Also, they may be rusted and frozen and may need to be drilled out.

On the upper part of the control panel, there are two black plastic push rivets (on either side of the start switch) these can be pried out., but the main screws are the two on the bottom.
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Old 05-04-2019, 09:37 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info.

Was able to get the two bottom screws out and pull the panel out and get to the fuse. That was the issue. Running great now!

Appreciate the help!!
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:01 PM   #4
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That's good news. My screws were so rusty, I had to drill them out and re-tap the hole, but I also had to drop my whole generator to replace and replace several components. That was not a fun job!
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Old 05-04-2019, 10:19 PM   #5
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Yeah, I'm betting it wasn't. Luckily my torx head screws weren't too rusted yet. Mine only has 160 hours right now. Hoping I never have to drop the whole generator, looks like a pita....
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JScottDMC View Post
Thanks for the info.

Was able to get the two bottom screws out and pull the panel out and get to the fuse. That was the issue. Running great now!

Appreciate the help!!
Welcome to the forum JScottDMC!

Great to hear it is fixed and running. Not everyone posts such a followup, so your "solution worked" post is much appreciated.

Safe travels.
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Old 05-09-2019, 05:01 PM   #7
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FWIW, removing the entire gen-set shouldn't be that big a deal. I have the same generator in an Xplorer (2000); it's held in by 4 bolts underneath. Remove the exhaust, remove 4 bolts and the unit slides out onto a portable workbench that's about the same height. Fuel and electric connections can be removed at this time.

I've had to pull mine out 3 times: once for mouse-eaten wires (I now store with stainless steel wool around the exhaust outlet which is the cooling air exit). Once for a bad oil-level switch (bypassed, this is a known problem) and once to replace a blown magneto. Nobody likes to do these jobs but it's not really that difficult.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:18 PM   #8
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. . . bad oil-level switch (bypassed, this is a known problem)

Where is this located? I removed my genset because it would start and run, sometimes for hours, sometimes for a few minutes, and the lights would dim and a second later the genset quit running and wouldn't restart. Is this symptomatic of a bad oil-level switch?
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Old 05-09-2019, 11:22 PM   #9
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I think it could be a symptom. My generator ran fine on the bench but once installed it, it was unreliable. I removed it and was able to duplicate the problem by bouncing, pushing it, etc. IIRC the switch is underneath the unit but the wire is accessible with the cover removed. I think it grounds the ignition when activated and I simply unplugged it and taped the end over. I don't remember if there was any color-coding but I think the wire had some type of sheathing for heat resistance.
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