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Old 09-23-2018, 06:48 PM   #1
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Default RoadTrek Simplicity SRT Solar install

Hi there,

I just installed some solar panels on my 2018 Roadtrek Simplicity SRT but cannot find any resources on how to tie my charge controller into the existing house battery and charging systems.

Has anyone done this on the simplicity srt? If so can you share some tips or wiring diagrams with me to ensure that I successfully complete my install?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 09-27-2018, 08:12 PM   #2
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Default Simplicity SRT solar

I would be interested in this also. Having just the 1 battery and with a DC only fridge, boon docking time is extremely limited.
I have a standalone solar system, just need to find a way to hook it into the coach battery.
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Old 09-27-2018, 10:38 PM   #3
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Default Solar Install Update

I installed 3, 175w panels with a Victron Smart Solar 100v 50a, Mppt charge controller on my 2018 Simplicity SRT last week. Overall the job was relatively straightforward and easy to complete. The solar system works like a charm!

I am able to run my refrigerator on high (#5), run my fantastic fan, charge all of my devices, turn on the inverter when needed to use the electric kettle; while maintaining a full battery charge by sundown.

The house battery at night is an entirely different story. Running my refrigerator on the lowest setting (#1) and my heater occasionally seems to drain the battery to a low point. Thus causing the co2 detector to let out a defining beep (at 4 in the morning), signaling that there is a low power error.
I checked the battery voltage on the monitor panel when the alarm has gone off, and the battery has had between 12.1-12v.

I called Roadtrek on the matter, and they said that the 2018 Simplicity SRT house battery is 190ah and should have no issues running these devices throughout the night. The 2018 Simplicity owners manual states that the RV has 185ah house battery and the website states that it has 100ah battery...

So I am guessing my Rv has the 100ah battery

The customer service agent I spoke with also mentioned that the battery can be used safely down to 10.5v without problems.

But based on this chat I found they are mistaken.

Voltage State of Charge
12.6+ 100%
12.5 90%
12.42 80%
12.32 70%
12.20 60%
12.06 50%
11.9 40%
11.75 30%
11.58 20%
11.31 10%
10.5 0%
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Old 09-27-2018, 11:56 PM   #4
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A battery is down to 50% at 12.2 volts - Totally discharged is 11.9 volts. If someone told you that you can safely take a battery down to 10.5 volts they don't know what they are talking about.
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Old 09-28-2018, 01:36 AM   #5
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I've saved a lot of battery charts over the years and happen to have one that has MikeyMike's voltages. Those same numbers were on a chart for flooded lead acid batteries at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are more charts out there from well known companies that would show similar voltages to what jseaman posted.

interstate chart.JPG

Phillips State of Charge chart flooded and agm.JPG

All the AGM batteries I have will be 12.8V or even 12.9V when fully charged.
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Old 10-08-2018, 03:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyMike View Post

The house battery at night is an entirely different story. Running my refrigerator on the lowest setting (#1) and my heater occasionally seems to drain the battery to a low point. Thus causing the co2 detector to let out a defining beep (at 4 in the morning), signaling that there is a low power error.
I checked the battery voltage on the monitor panel when the alarm has gone off, and the battery has had between 12.1-12v.
We had the dealer install 200 watts of solar before we took delivery on our SSRT because of the refrigerator with only 100ah AGM issue. We find this is plenty of power for us as long as were getting 6 hours or so of sun a day.

We have no trouble running the fridge all night on a setting of 4, along with a bit of pump, furnace, recharging devices and a couple of hours of TV. We occasionally will turn on the inverter for a quick microwave reheat session. I don't think we have ever been below 12.3 in the morning.

The tea kettle on the inverter would be the first thing to throw out of the camper. Anything that uses 110v to create heat is just going to suck down the amps. The fact that the inverter causes additional draw just adds to the problem...hair dryers, curling irons, waffle makers and toasters are all huge energy draws.

Use the propane stove to heat water
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Old 01-05-2019, 11:55 PM   #7
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Hey Mike,
I'm trying to add a connection for portable pannels to our Simplicity but I'm not sure where to start did you use any resources or could you tell us how you hooked in your panels?
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Old 01-06-2019, 11:58 PM   #8
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We have no trouble running the fridge all night on a setting of 4, along with a bit of pump, furnace, recharging devices and a couple of hours of TV. We occasionally will turn on the inverter for a quick microwave reheat session. I don't think we have ever been below 12.3 in the morning.
I assume the solar panel are irreverent for your night usage, right?
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:00 AM   #9
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Solar panels are absolutely relevant, they charge batteries before night time, right?
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Old 01-08-2019, 05:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoshimura View Post
I assume the solar panel are irreverent for your night usage, right?
The solar panels cannot produce power once the sun has gone down, but they do help to ensure you have a full charge by sundown.
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Old 01-08-2019, 05:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Irlchris View Post
Hey Mike,
I'm trying to add a connection for portable pannels to our Simplicity but I'm not sure where to start did you use any resources or could you tell us how you hooked in your panels?
I really couldn't find much information on the Simplicity specifically. So, I lifted up the rear of the RV crawled under and took a look at the battery system and cable arrangement to find the best configuration.

Here how I set the system up:
• After attaching the panels to the roof, I ran the cables from the solar panels through a hole that I drilled in the roof. Then channeled them behind the cabinets, leading to the charge controller.
• I installed the charge controller in the cabinet where the power inverter is located.
• I drilled holes in the floor of the charge controller cabinet. Then ran the cables from the charge controller to the house battery under the rig.

For me, this was the simplest and most efficient way to install the system.

*** On a side note, I upgraded my battery to a 100ah battle born lithium iron phosphate battery. Now we can get through the night running our refrigerator, vent fan, water pump, and charging devices, etc, without power issues.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:15 AM   #12
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[QUOTE=MikeyMike;85821*** On a side note, I upgraded my battery to a 100ah battle born lithium iron phosphate battery. Now we can get through the night running our refrigerator, vent fan, water pump, and charging devices, etc, without power issues.[/QUOTE]
Where did you put your Lithium? You removed the AGM? Also, do you have the Underhood generator?

From what I understand, you can't disconnect a battery (which the Battle Born will automatically do when they become full) from an alternator without taken the risk to damage the alternator diodes.

So more info on your setup will be appreciated.
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:03 PM   #13
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Where did you put your Lithium? You removed the AGM? Also, do you have the Underhood generator?

From what I understand, you can't disconnect a battery (which the Battle Born will automatically do when they become full) from an alternator without taken the risk to damage the alternator diodes.

So more info on your setup will be appreciated.
I replaced the AGM with the Battle Born battery, I do have an under hood generator.
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:23 PM   #14
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Most information available would indicate that if the alternator is disconnected from all battery capacity and voltage reference, by disconnecting the main output line to the batteries you can get a spike that can take out the alternator and/Balmar electronics and diodes. The lower the load the lower the risk, I think, but always there. The engineered control systems will interrupt the field power to kill the charging and then may disconnect the mail power. The same thing is true with solar charging and keeping a battery connection.
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Old 01-23-2019, 06:57 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyMike View Post
I replaced the AGM with the Battle Born battery, I do have an under hood generator.
I read your location as British Columbia, Canada. Let us know if you have any temperature complications with the lithium battery outside.
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:01 PM   #16
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Hi mike, thanks for your post on 1/23/2019 ,how to install solar panel and charge controller for simplicity srt. I have the same one 2019 and would like to install solar panels too. could your please send me pictures of wire that run from the roof to charger and from charger to battery? thank you.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by hbang1954 View Post
Hi mike, thanks for your post on 1/23/2019 ,how to install solar panel and charge controller for simplicity srt. I have the same one 2019 and would like to install solar panels too. could your please send me pictures of wire that run from the roof to charger and from charger to battery? thank you.
I would like to see pics too. I’m about to install panels to and I’m not 100% sure where I want to run them.
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Old 05-04-2019, 11:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyMike View Post
Hi there,

I just installed some solar panels on my 2018 Roadtrek Simplicity SRT but cannot find any resources on how to tie my charge controller into the existing house battery and charging systems.

Has anyone done this on the simplicity srt? If so can you share some tips or wiring diagrams with me to ensure that I successfully complete my install?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Mike
j

I just joined to follow this thread that was started 8 months ago.
By now the install should have been finished, so please share with some tips and pics.
I bought a SSRT in January and 8 would like to add Solar Panels to the electrical system.
My biggest concern is how and where the wiring from the panels to the Inverter/charger compartment is snaked from the roof through the cabinets.
This information may also help the Simplicity Facebook group that I
I’m in.
Thanks, Happy Travels!
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