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Old 06-08-2016, 03:23 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by booster View Post
BBQ sure seems to like to jumble the discussion away from the important stuff. Give him information and it is not good enough. Show him literature and it is word games, etc, etc.

Now he says all are mistaken because all diesels have the plugging issue. That is exactly what we have been saying, it is diesels in general. Note the quote from Ford, another from Ram, etc.

All of this just goes back to what BBQ is avoiding, and that is to show us where MB said idling is OK and not a problem, and was originally stated and repeated without the, now added, disclaimer of "of course it will need cleaning out". We have asked for his reference repeatedly, and all we get back is that we aren't giving him FBI level proof of what we already had stated as our opinions, and referenced a source that has had plugging issues in Sprinter, but it is not as good a source as his non referenced ones.

But it doesn't matter what information we post, it won't be good enough, and we will be accused of stupidity and bias, as it is a good way to avoid having to back up his own statements.

The OP will be able to dig though all this and make a good decision that works for him. but it is sad that he has to put up with this stuff.

This. +1.
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Old 06-08-2016, 03:32 AM   #92
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See. I told you the armchair expert would chime in. ��

Advanced RV uses Balmar. Balmar temp sensors can and do fail but when they fail they save the alternator by cutting output to zero. Nevertheless when they work they do their job and drop the amperage down down to less than your air conditioner puts out. Thus you have diminishing batteries. Ducted forced air helps under idling stationary conditions but not enough in the high heat of the southwest as ARV has learned. That Nations alternator was not designed for continuous high output use.

Idling. Normal idle is around 800 rpms. The fixed high idle runs just under 1200 rpms which is equivalent to cruising about 25-30 mph. Stands to assume high idle would be closely equivalent to city driving. Is that bad? When you are talking prolonged use such as running your air conditioner it has to be better.

A long time ago I reported the MB man in charge of coordinating RV sales for the whole country said and was comfortable with idling a max of two hours and then driving at least 40 minutes on the highway. To him that was just common sense prudence but considered regardless of idling abuse you might not see any problem for 90,000 miles. About that abuse. What makes commercial vehicles immune to the chicken little sky is falling internet litany? There are no warnings. It is common sense maintenance folks. Nothing lasts forever. Ask yourself if it is worth it. That's all. I'd love to see the condition of an Onan generator with that use.

Both ARV and Roadtrek have built in 5 auto starts. Then you have to start your engine with your key. They both limit how long an engine can run on auto start. I believe that is two hours for both. I can program any amount of time I want less than two hours and I can program any % SOC to auto start and once the batteries top off the engine shuts off. I can also program in the campground quiet hours so it won't auto start. I don't know if Roadtrek is that sophisticated. They don't have high idle or forced ducted air either.

I had 38,000 miles on a closely monitored Nations alternator. The Delco Remy alternator I now have is a serious alternator designed to run at high output continuously. I also have 800ah of lithium ion batteries thus put on 14 hours on the auto start feature and most all those were testing and demoing. With nearly 4,000 miles on the Delco I now have 10 minutes of playing with it on auto start. In effect with a huge battery bank it would rarely get used.

See my amusement? I use my B. This is my 90th night on the road this year and 242nd in 16 months camping in 0F to 96F temperatures. I'm reporting from the driver's seat, not the armchair.

While driving I now recharge an overnight campground's use of electricity in less than a half hour with a non diminishing delivery of about 280 amps. I'm very liberal with my use. I have the inverter on all the time to have full use of all outlets and appliances all the time. We cook witness an electric induction cooktop and a microwave convection oven. I would say we make no less than 6 cups of Keurig coffee every day. No problem. Thus the thought of shore power hooking up is just a nuisance.
Thanks for post. This info is helpful for a current armchair hopefully soon to be owner to evaluate brand and options. Good food for thought like most of this thread.
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:03 AM   #93
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What you have posted is laughable. You know it.

Why are you shifting again? your shadow scared you?

Are you complaining about DPF? or idling?
They are 2 different things, in case you haven't figured that out yet.

Are you complaining about Mercedes Benz? or diesel in general?
You seem to be shifting between the 2 and don't know your exact position.
As expected and predicted---all insults, no facts or data--not worth even addressing.
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:32 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by Davydd View Post
See. I told you the armchair expert would chime in. ��

Advanced RV uses Balmar. Balmar temp sensors can and do fail but when they fail they save the alternator by cutting output to zero. Nevertheless when they work they do their job and drop the amperage down down to less than your air conditioner puts out. Thus you have diminishing batteries. Ducted forced air helps under idling stationary conditions but not enough in the high heat of the southwest as ARV has learned. That Nations alternator was not designed for continuous high output use.

Idling. Normal idle is around 800 rpms. The fixed high idle runs just under 1200 rpms which is equivalent to cruising about 25-30 mph. Stands to assume high idle would be closely equivalent to city driving. Is that bad? When you are talking prolonged use such as running your air conditioner it has to be better.

A long time ago I reported the MB man in charge of coordinating RV sales for the whole country said and was comfortable with idling a max of two hours and then driving at least 40 minutes on the highway. To him that was just common sense prudence but considered regardless of idling abuse you might not see any problem for 90,000 miles. About that abuse. What makes commercial vehicles immune to the chicken little sky is falling internet litany? There are no warnings. It is common sense maintenance folks. Nothing lasts forever. Ask yourself if it is worth it. That's all. I'd love to see the condition of an Onan generator with that use.

Both ARV and Roadtrek have built in 5 auto starts. Then you have to start your engine with your key. They both limit how long an engine can run on auto start. I believe that is two hours for both. I can program any amount of time I want less than two hours and I can program any % SOC to auto start and once the batteries top off the engine shuts off. I can also program in the campground quiet hours so it won't auto start. I don't know if Roadtrek is that sophisticated. They don't have high idle or forced ducted air either.

I had 38,000 miles on a closely monitored Nations alternator. The Delco Remy alternator I now have is a serious alternator designed to run at high output continuously. I also have 800ah of lithium ion batteries thus put on 14 hours on the auto start feature and most all those were testing and demoing. With nearly 4,000 miles on the Delco I now have 10 minutes of playing with it on auto start. In effect with a huge battery bank it would rarely get used.

See my amusement? I use my B. This is my 90th night on the road this year and 242nd in 16 months camping in 0F to 96F temperatures. I'm reporting from the driver's seat, not the armchair.

While driving I now recharge an overnight campground's use of electricity in less than a half hour with a non diminishing delivery of about 280 amps. I'm very liberal with my use. I have the inverter on all the time to have full use of all outlets and appliances all the time. We cook witness an electric induction cooktop and a microwave convection oven. I would say we make no less than 6 cups of Keurig coffee every day. No problem. Thus the thought of shore power hooking up is just a nuisance.
Just incredible.
I don't know why I even bother.
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Old 06-08-2016, 01:29 PM   #95
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Just incredible.
I don't know why I even bother.
What is incredible? That I actually reported some use and observation and not opinion?
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:02 PM   #96
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I think the message gets a mixed up when you say don't buy this alternator (eliminating every brand except ARV) as it unsuitable for stationary operation (debatable) but demonstrate no need for stationary operation. The money spent was likely more a need to stay current than an actual fear of the Advanced RV failing on a trip.

Davydd's rig is a great example of choosing an appropriate size battery bank so that you don't have to idle much. I think it has been determined that he could have made do with a slightly smaller battery bank but if you are going to err then err on the side of greater capacity.

Davydd's rig is not the poster child for those who want to use an alternator or in his case an auxiliary alternator as a generator. He simply doesn't use that way. Power in his rig comes from the battery bank. The auxiliary alternator is simply used to charge the battery bank when he drives the RV.
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:12 PM   #97
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I do wonder if Davydd actually takes the time to retype his story every time he reposts it, I hope he is at least efficient enough to have it saved and does not waste time to retype it every time since he is out enjoying life instead of wasting time posting here as an armchair engineer....
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Old 06-08-2016, 02:45 PM   #98
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Maybe think of the repeated info on forums and groups as being posted for the benefit of newer members.

Just to expand a bit on what I posted earlier - I'd be much more likely to run the engine in my van to power the microwave oven than Davydd would for example. I kind of doubt he'd ever feel the need to do it. I'd do it to keep my AGM batteries topped up. He doesn't have those concerns with his Lifep04 (lithium) batteries.
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Old 06-08-2016, 03:06 PM   #99
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Maybe think of the repeated info on forums and groups as being posted for the benefit of newer members.

Just to expand a bit on what I posted earlier - I'd be much more likely to run the engine in my van to power the microwave oven than Davydd would for example. I kind of doubt he'd ever feel the need to do it. I'd do it to keep my AGM batteries topped up. He doesn't have those concerns with his Lifep04 (lithium) batteries.
That is a very good point on the choice of idling or not, and we would be similar. I would only add that I would be more likely to run the engine for a microwave run if our batteries were 80% or more full, as that is the range that takes much longer to replace when recharging. If we were in the lower ranges of SOC, the engine run time to replace what we used would probably be less than time we would run the engine to use the micro, as the replacement would be happening at near double the amps the micro uses. In that case, we would have less engine run time needed by not running the engine for the micro, and it could be done at any time.

The AGM batteries definitely can alter how you look at some of this stuff, compared to lithium.
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:00 PM   #100
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Maybe think of the repeated info on forums and groups as being posted for the benefit of newer members.
That's exactly correct. This was very interesting, and I'm still wrapping my head around some of it.

But there's one thing no one has mentioned. What is this all costing. You're mentioning battery banks, inverters, etc.

Then add the statement - "Thus the thought of shore power hooking up is just a nuisance." Is all this worth avoiding a plug to the van, and another to the power post at the Campsite? (I know there's more to it, but I'm keeping it basic.)
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