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Old 05-16-2017, 01:29 AM   #21
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LOL

Only 3-4 amps?
Do you believe that ???


Yes, if the battery heaters are not on, he can believe that.
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Old 05-16-2017, 01:37 AM   #22
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My bet is that any other loads full time are not included in that number, just the parasitic of the battery. Add on other electronics like monitors, inverter, etc and you probably have at least one more amp.
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Old 05-16-2017, 02:06 AM   #23
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My bet is that any other loads full time are not included in that number, just the parasitic of the battery. Add on other electronics like monitors, inverter, etc and you probably have at least one more amp.
The tank and voltage monitors are LCD and are negligible loads and the bsattery disconnect relay is bi-stable.. The inverter is a different matter - when on and in no load standby it's drawing around 5 amps and Roadtrek recommends shutting it off when not using 120VAC appliances. Some of the anecdotes describing battery shut down when the vehicle is unattended are undoubtedly caused by forgetting to shut the inverter down when not in use. If I was designing this inverter, I would include a user programmable mode that would shut the inverter down after a non-demand period selected by the user.
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Old 05-16-2017, 02:14 AM   #24
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The tank and voltage monitors are LCD and are negligible loads and the bsattery disconnect relay is bi-stable.. The inverter is a different matter - when on and in no load standby it's drawing around 5 amps and Roadtrek recommends shutting it off when not using 120VAC appliances. Some of the anecdotes describing battery shut down when the vehicle is unattended are undoubtedly caused by forgetting to shut the inverter down when not in use. If I was designing this inverter, I would include a user programmable mode that would shut the inverter down after a non-demand period selected by the user.
The stuff all adds up surprisingly quickly. Even a gas frig unit will be in the .3-.4 amps range in most cases. Regardless of that, 5 amps for an inverter is inexcusable. You put in a huge Magnum or Outback and it will idle at maybe 1.5 amps, and they have a rest/monitor mode if you want to use, that will bring them to life if an AC load goes on. Roadtrek cheeses out with their off brand "proprietary" stuff, which is really just lower quality and featured than the price of the system would indicate.
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Old 05-16-2017, 03:03 AM   #25
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The stuff all adds up surprisingly quickly. Even a gas frig unit will be in the .3-.4 amps range in most cases. Regardless of that, 5 amps for an inverter is inexcusable. You put in a huge Magnum or Outback and it will idle at maybe 1.5 amps, and they have a rest/monitor mode if you want to use, that will bring them to life if an AC load goes on. Roadtrek cheeses out with their off brand "proprietary" stuff, which is really just lower quality and featured than the price of the system would indicate.
No argument here. I've used Prosine 2.0s and a Magnum 2000 both of which had much lower standby draw plus excellent remote panels with lots of user program parameters. The early Roadtrek inverters were built by AIMS but the current version has Roadtrek labeling and my understanding is that they are sourced from a Canadian enterprise although more than likely, they are built in China. It used to have a power saver mode that would periodically interrogate for demand but it had some problem with the microwave clock so rather than fixing the glitch, they just deleted the power saver feature.

That said, so far, it supports our AC without complaint when off grid.
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Old 05-16-2017, 11:57 AM   #26
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............................ The wife and I have no RV experience but we are intent on purchasing an RV for near full time use and running an online business out of it while traveling....................
Have you considered other larger RV types if basically full timing?

As you would be going from no RV experience to near full time use I'll point out some of the advantages of a bigger unit: A larger rig permits a permanent bed, dry bathroom, dining area and work areas. You can get a unit with a washer & dryer instead of seeking out laundromats. There would be space for clothes hampers, trash bin & recycling bins. Food prep areas will be larger. It will have greater tank capacities etc. Two people would be able to move around with ease. There would be multiple closets inside for clothes and shoes. There would be lots of exterior storage for things like a larger BBQ grills, golf clubs, gear related to kayaking, biking, tools and/or other hobbies etc. There would be a choice of seating areas inside.

A car or truck would typically be the vehicle used for shopping, groceries, doctor & dentist visits & sightseeing. With a B van, everything thing needs to be packed up & stored to make the vehicle road ready for those frequent trips. The van would need to be parked level enough for your comfort so that might entail leveling it after returning from each those errand or recreational trips. There would be no certainty that your parking spot would still be available upon your return if boondocking.

Just thought I'd throw all that out there for you to consider.
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Old 05-16-2017, 12:21 PM   #27
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Have you considered other larger RV types if basically full timing?

As you would be going from no RV experience to near full time use I'll point out some of the advantages of a bigger unit: A larger rig permits a permanent bed, dry bathroom, dining area and work areas. You can get a unit with a washer & dryer instead of seeking out laundromats. There would be space for clothes hampers, trash bin & recycling bins. Food prep areas will be larger. It will have greater tank capacities etc. Two people would be able to move around with ease. There would be multiple closets inside for clothes and shoes. There would be lots of exterior storage for things like a larger BBQ grills, golf clubs, gear related to kayaking, biking, tools and/or other hobbies etc. There would be a choice of seating areas inside.

A car or truck would typically be the vehicle used for shopping, groceries, doctor & dentist visits & sightseeing. With a B van, everything thing needs to be packed up & stored to make the vehicle road ready for those frequent trips. The van would need to be parked level enough for your comfort so that might entail leveling it after returning from each those errand or recreational trips. There would be no certainty that your parking spot would still be available upon your return if boondocking.

Just thought I'd throw all that out there for you to consider.
We really appreciate reading all the comments from ya'll about this, so thanks again to each of you for weighing in.

The only RV experience we have is a month or so ago we rented a slightly smaller Class B for two weeks. It was propane powered and had one AGM and had the over the cab bed. We put three cats in there and the wife and I spent all of our time at RV parks just to get a feel for the space. We loved it.

We thought about larger units but don't think that's for us. Don't need all that space and don't want to deal with the hassles that come with larger units. Plus we'd like to be able to park the thing in urban areas and zip in and out easily. We'd like to spend the majority of our time boondocking but we want the flexibility to do some urban stuff too.

XL version of RoadTrek is about as big as we think we want to go.

We'll call AM Solar today and chat with them about possible upgrades to see what they can offer. We don't need voltstart but we do want 1600AH of lithium at least and as much solar as we can get. Would love to be able to tilt the panels so that would be one benefit of retrofitting the rig (I don't think RT stock panels tilt). We would want the batteries to charge when we're driving and would want an alternator or underhood generator option when not driving and the ability to charge it all from shore power.

We're also interested in using a compost toilet rather than black water tanks and if we can come up with a solution that works there, replacing the black water tank with more fresh water capacity.

I'll report back when we talk to AM Solar hopefully later today.
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Old 05-16-2017, 12:30 PM   #28
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To me, the below floor storage is a huge benefit, as they can use up half the inside with batteries and such. Since no generator, there is lots of room underneath. I would not put them inside, even if I had to get the underbody mount done by someone other that the installer. I hung 440ah of AGMs under our Chevy without a problem.
Booster, do you have any way to protect batteries from cold temps with them hung under the rig?
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Old 05-16-2017, 12:35 PM   #29
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The RT factory did also tell us that the lithium they use is "lithium iron phosphate" which they say is safer than lithium ion. We have to research this kind of battery because we're unfamiliar with it and were thinking lithium was lithium.

They also said it's a bad idea to have lithium batteries inside the coach because they offgas which was news to us, too. We were toying with the idea of having a lithium backup power supply inside the coach wired into a 110 outlet to supply enough power to keep a desktop computer running when we're away as an alernative to leaving multiple RT battery modules turned on and dealing with the parasitic drag.
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Old 05-16-2017, 12:50 PM   #30
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Booster, do you have any way to protect batteries from cold temps with them hung under the rig?
The folks with lithium underneath almost always have them in a box of some sort, both for protection from the elements and the cold and heat. The built up battery setups that are used include some relatively fragile parts that wouldn't like the water, salt, dirt, etc, and if it is cold you need to be able to have the heaters work as well as possible on the lowest energy use.

With our AGMs, I just put some splash shields on them to stop most of the water and debris. The back side is wide open.
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