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Old 08-12-2017, 02:07 PM   #581
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Tank gauges are notoriously inaccurate. ..
Most indeed are very inaccurate. For my fresh and grey water tank, I chose Wema with electromechanical floaters and analog gauge, very accurate and never had a problem. For black water tank using ultrasonic sensor on the tank top would be more accurate than commonly used capacitive sensors. Adding a rinse nozzle next to the US sensor would make it foolproof.

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Old 08-12-2017, 03:22 PM   #582
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Tank gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have a macerator you can tell from experience by sound if you emptied the tanks, or just check the outlet for discharge. It it sputters it is nearly empty. I don't worry about emptying it out all the way since I still want liquid in the bottom of the tank.
Great point about the liquid at the bottom.

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It is really helpful to have a clear segment somewhere in the dump chain. There are various fittings that make this possible. What is appropriate is specific to your particular setup.
I'll definitely look into that modification.

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Originally Posted by GeorgeRa View Post
Most indeed are very inaccurate. For my fresh and grey water tank, I chose Wema with electromechanical floaters and analog gauge, very accurate and never had a problem. For black water tank using ultrasonic sensor on the tank top would be more accurate than commonly used capacitive sensors. Adding a rinse nozzle next to the US sensor would make it foolproof.

Senders.
This seems very useful, thanks.

I'm currently in the Olympic National Forest dry camping and going to test out how well the lithium does for an extended period during moderate weather. Can't beat this view or the feeling of being nestled in the forest like a lithium powered submarine!
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Old 08-12-2017, 04:56 PM   #583
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.

A capsule of dishwashing machine detergent; that's all you need to break down the solids and keep them suspended until your next dump.
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Old 08-14-2017, 03:40 PM   #584
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For those interested in the high idle feature we discussed, this video shows it at 5:34.

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Old 08-14-2017, 11:09 PM   #585
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The most effective way to keep the heat out of your van is an exterior cover over the windshield and cab windows. There are a few manufacturers - I have the one from Eurocampers.com
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Old 08-15-2017, 01:23 AM   #586
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Want to test out the Alde coach heat using lithium only tonight. Haven't read anything about this, only talk is about shore power or using the diesel option.

My question, does the inverter have to be on and if so, is it the main or the galley inverter?

I've confirmed that the Alde will start cycling the glycol and shows the circle (heating icon) without any inverter being on but I'm not sure if it will heat it or not. Would be cool if it heated using DC power only. I guess I'll know in the morning.
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Old 08-15-2017, 03:57 AM   #587
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Want to test out the Alde coach heat using lithium only tonight. Haven't read anything about this, only talk is about shore power or using the diesel option.

My question, does the inverter have to be on and if so, is it the main or the galley inverter?

I've confirmed that the Alde will start cycling the glycol and shows the circle (heating icon) without any inverter being on but I'm not sure if it will heat it or not. Would be cool if it heated using DC power only. I guess I'll know in the morning.
It will provide heat with just 12v power using the propane or diesel fuel to heat the glycol depending on which you have. There is an option to use 120v power to heat the glycol but probably only reasonable to use from shore power since the power via the inverter would use a lot of battery power.
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Old 08-24-2017, 07:52 PM   #588
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After the balmar was changed out twice, the GU was charging the batteries. But yesterday I didn't get the sense it was charging them. So this morning I only flipped on one ecotrek. It was in the 50s early in the morning. I drove for about six hours with the average temp being 65F until I got out of the elevation and then for the last two hours it was average of 80F which was also the speed limit of the highway.

That one ecotrek when I started read 13.1 volts. When I finished it read 13.2 volts.

The Balmar appears to be working. I'm going to install a camera under the hood to record its display while driving for several hours to see if that shows something.

Fortunately shore power still charges the batteries.
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Old 08-24-2017, 11:47 PM   #589
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After the balmar was changed out twice, the GU was charging the batteries. But yesterday I didn't get the sense it was charging them. So this morning I only flipped on one ecotrek. It was in the 50s early in the morning. I drove for about six hours with the average temp being 65F until I got out of the elevation and then for the last two hours it was average of 80F which was also the speed limit of the highway.

That one ecotrek when I started read 13.1 volts. When I finished it read 13.2 volts.

The Balmar appears to be working. I'm going to install a camera under the hood to record its display while driving for several hours to see if that shows something.

Fortunately shore power still charges the batteries.
what makes you think it's possibly not working? also lithium batteries are very difficult to read based on voltage. What caused your post.
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Old 08-25-2017, 01:00 AM   #590
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what makes you think it's possibly not working? also lithium batteries are very difficult to read based on voltage. What caused your post.
I don't know why I would think that. What could it be? Could it perhaps be the lengthy description I provided where I explained it didn't charge up from 13.1 to anything more than 13.2 after hours of highway driving?

If you want to provide a reason why that might be normal, like 13.1 isn't low enough for the balmar to charge it or something, perhaps just say that?
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