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Old 10-14-2018, 10:01 PM   #1
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Default 2003 Roadtrek 200 Popular AC area leaks when raining

My Roadtrek is on a 2002 Chevy Express cutaway chassis.
See subject and attached pics.

Been parked on a a slight incline for the past 2 days nose down. It's been drizzling off and on. No big downpours or torrents. I have NOT been using the AC. I woke up this morning with the condensation tray under the AC overflowing with (presumably) rainwater on to mattresses and floor. When I looked in (and down) into the tray, I could see about 3/4" of water in it. See pic. I decided to turn the van around and put the rear end of the van down the incline. I could see a lot of water drain out the rear windshield, but I don't know if it came out of an AC drain or off the roof.

To me this indicates two issues.

1. There is a rainwater leak into the AC area SOMEPLACE.

2. The AC condensation tray in not draining properly.

So where to from here ?

Does anyone have an idea where the condensation drain How do I access it? I could blow it out with compressed air.

Where are the likely places the rainwater is getting in? Could it be just because I was on a downward incline for a couple days?

According to what I've read, removing the AC unit is VERY long, difficult task. I don't have any interest in embarking on this.

Thanks for any information you may be able to provide...
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Old 10-15-2018, 01:24 PM   #2
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I remember discussions about leaks when parked on a downward incline with the front of the vehicle down (nose down). I can't recall what specific models were talked about.
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Old 10-25-2018, 09:24 PM   #3
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We had this problem in a 2003 model 200 Rosdtrek after the cowl over the AC unit was removed to service the AC unit.
The proper screws and washers were not replaced by the first general RV shop during the repair.
I recall a separate discussion about the drain on some 200 Roadtrek AC compartments being plugged.
As I recall there is a drain tube that can be seen under the RT near the back end. Blowing air or running a wire upward might clear the leak.
I took our RT to a shop that specialized in Roadtreks to have the problem solved. I went to a specialty shop because of concern that if I cleared the clog from below myself might clog again.
Sunshine State RVs near Gainesville is one such Roadtrek specialty shop. (Matt shop manager knows his stuff regarding Roadtreks)
BJ
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:46 PM   #4
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BJ, Thanks for the info. If the Wx warms up a bit, I am going to go up on the roof and remove the cover to see what the issue might be. I understand there are special fasteners called "wellnuts" that are single use fasteners that must be replaced when replacing the cover. I intend on taking one out and getting a set before removing the cover.

Do you have any more information on the location of the drain tube in the rear? A more precise location of where to look for it ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-25-2018, 10:46 PM   #5
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You must always park nose up, recommended at least 2”. If not you will leak when it rains. This is typical, being nose down is the reason for the problem. We have a 2001.
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:09 PM   #6
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Thank you for the reply Earth,

I guess I have to ask myself "What kind of a whacked out design is THIS" ? Especially for a vehicle that in many cases may be either parked OR travelling nose down during heavy rainfall. ....

I would be very curious for Roadtrek to chime in and confirm that yes, this is in fact, their corporate stance on this, and was their design intention...

WOW !!!!!
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Old 10-26-2018, 12:26 AM   #7
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I don't recall where the drain hole or holes are within the AC enclosure although I vaguely recall hearing that they may have been funnel shaped and would bet they are in the corners and probably toward the rear but this is just a guess.
Hopefully someone else on the forum can help.
If I find out from the Roadtrek chapter of family motor coach association I will share it.
Again Sunshine State RVs can probably answer the question, or any long time Roadtrek dealership service manager.
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Old 10-26-2018, 12:57 AM   #8
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Don’t shoot the messenger. 😕 I agree, I was pretty surprised when I learned about it.
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:51 PM   #9
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Earth, no shots fired... Sorry if you inferred that...

I am just astonished at the thought that Roadtrek intended this in their design. Imagine if they did this with their fuel tank. On a long steep incline the fuel ran to the back of the tank, and the engine was (eventually) starved for fuel until you leveled off. Not exactly the same thing, but I'm sure you get my drift.

Doesn't seem like a very good design. The idea of a "rolling home" is to keep you OUT of the elements.

Thanks and again I apologize if you felt I was "shooting the messenger".

Maybe they will chime in with their explanation.
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Old 10-26-2018, 04:32 PM   #10
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Thinking back, our 2003 RT 200 did not leak from the AC enclosure, even if we were parked nose downhill in rain until a non-Roadtrek maintenance shop removed the AC cover and did not reinstall the appropriate fasteners which are needed to prevent water leak issues.
After the proper fasteners were installed the leak went away.
So I suspect that those who have leaks when nose down may have clogged drains.
By the way our RT 200 was kept most of the year at our home in the Florida Keys where heavyvrsins are common.
BJ
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Old 10-27-2018, 04:25 PM   #11
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I posted a question on the Roadtrek forum web site which is available to FMCA members about RT model 200 coach leaks and got this superb response. BJ Monticello UT

We drive a 2000 200V. It has a drain hose that leads from the underside of the AC (where water collects during operation). The hose travels forward a few inches, then it turns downward where it runs to the rear of the vehicle beneath the fiberglass floor on which the AC sits. The hose is sandwiched between the fiberglass floor and the ceiling of the bedroom. I have tried long and hard, with no success, to locate where the hose ends at the outlet end.

I have removed the AC cover several times, using new rubber well nuts (also called expansion nuts) when reinstalling the cover, unless the old well nuts were in excellent condition. The wells won’t leak unless the bottom ends are damaged or drilled. I always use nuts that are 1 inch long, not including the head.

Regarding water dripping in to the bedroom, it has been our experience that water can enter the bedroom area if the Roadtrek is parked with the rear end too high while operating the AC. Water from the AC will drain forward, and collect in the small catch pan below the front grill of the AC. Once the pan becomes full, it overflows, dripping into the interior. In humid weather, the pan can fill faster.

In 25 years of Roadtreking, we’ve seen more than our share of mysterious, unwanted water activity inside our 2 RT rigs. Sometimes in cold weather, the rear window can be wet with condensation which drips on to the bed. A fan permanently mounted on the bedroom ceiling above out feet that dries the window quickly. The fan also helps cool the bedroom during AC operation by moving air out of the area.

We’ve had other invasions. In 1995 in the Yukon Territory, we had a bewildering and unstoppable mosquito invasion. All doors were tightly closed, and they were not entering around the edge of the window screens. Yet, 10-20 mosquitos were entering at 2:00 AM. We killed all of them. A few minutes later, there was another bunch. It took 45 minutes to discover they were entering through the stove vent. I found them when I turned on the vent light and saw about a dozen looking down at me through the vent light cover. They walked around until they found the little holes in the sheet metal that faced down toward the burners. We taped them closed with electrical tape and they were stopped-at 3:00 AM.
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Old 10-29-2018, 02:59 AM   #12
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BJones, thanks for re-posting. This helps a great deal. I got the cover off. It looks like the folks before me have tried SEVERAL remedies (AKA lots of sealant/gasket/weatherstripping etc). Four of the well nuts were stripped.

I'll have a look at the drain hose tomorrow.

I was able to get one of the well nuts out whole. The outside appears to be 3/8" with a #10 32 screw thread.

The ones available at the local Hardware store were 23/32 (too small) with a #10 32 screw, or 31/64 (too big) with a 1/4 20 screw.

I am suspect that the originals (outside diameter) are metric (being from Canada), but that would be pretty strange considering the thread is standard (#10 32).

Anyone out there replace theirs? If so , with what size? Where did you get them.

Tnx.
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Old 10-29-2018, 12:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJW73NH View Post
BJones, thanks for re-posting. This helps a great deal. I got the cover off. It looks like the folks before me have tried SEVERAL remedies (AKA lots of sealant/gasket/weatherstripping etc). Four of the well nuts were stripped.

I'll have a look at the drain hose tomorrow.

I was able to get one of the well nuts out whole. The outside appears to be 3/8" with a #10 32 screw thread.

The ones available at the local Hardware store were 23/32 (too small) with a #10 32 screw, or 31/64 (too big) with a 1/4 20 screw.

I am suspect that the originals (outside diameter) are metric (being from Canada), but that would be pretty strange considering the thread is standard (#10 32).

Anyone out there replace theirs? If so , with what size? Where did you get them.

Tnx.
I went through this last year on my 2000 200 after Irma decided to lift off that cover and give it to my next door neighbor. Thankfully it was there instead of up in GA.

I'm assuming that the 23/32 should be 23/64 as 23/32 is about 3/4". The smaller one would fill the bill. Just make sure that it is long enough.

The idea of a well nut is to be slightly narrower than the hole. You insert the well nut and when you start to tighten it the bottom of the nut is drawn closer to the surface. This action causes the rubber part to expand, fill the hole and creating a fat part on the bottom to hold it in place.

I used a bit of RTV on the screw threads to waterproof them.

You may want to do a dry run without the cover in place so you will have an idea of how far to run the screw in and the torque involved for proper seating of the well nut.

Short video.



HTH.
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:05 PM   #14
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Amazon sells 'em. Buy a bunch for next time. Mine takes 12 of them, I think.
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:21 PM   #15
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Another reply from the Roadtrek Chapter of FMCA mentioned that the "well " screws or washers came in different sizes and he used larger ones where needed. Screw thread size not mentioned.
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Old 10-29-2018, 03:34 PM   #16
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Not just RT, and not a problem that’s been universally solved. My 2018 PW manual says “always park nose up. Parking nose down may cause leak. Damage not covered by warrantee.”
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neals384 View Post
Not just RT, and not a problem that’s been universally solved. My 2018 PW manual says “always park nose up. Parking nose down may cause leak. Damage not covered by warrantee.”
WOW !!!! Am I the only one that finds this absurd ? Granted I am somewhat new to class Bs but a well seasoned RVer.

Apparently this is the "industry standard".... I am stunned. Oh well. It is what it is. I'll replace my nuts and see if there is any improvement.

Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
...I'm assuming that the 23/32 should be 23/64 as 23/32 is about 3/4". The smaller one would fill the bill. Just make sure that it is long enough.

The idea of a well nut is to be slightly narrower than the hole. You insert the well nut and when you start to tighten it the bottom of the nut is drawn closer to the surface. This action causes the rubber part to expand, fill the hole and creating a fat part on the bottom to hold it in place.

I used a bit of RTV on the screw threads to waterproof them.

You may want to do a dry run without the cover in place so you will have an idea of how far to run the screw in and the torque involved for proper seating of the well nut.


HTH.
SteveJ, Thanks for all the great info. Yes you are correct 23/64. And yes, I have matched the length (about 1"). I didn't install either of them yet, but my concern was that the smaller of the two would just "spin" in the loose hole as I was trying to tighten them. I am familiar with how they work, I just wanted to be sure I could get the initial "bite" to keep them from spinning in the hole until the rubber "catches"...

I suppose I could put a dab of RTV on them and let them dry for a day or so. THEN screw the cover on.

I ordered a set of 12 (I need 9) metric ones with stainless screws from Amazon. $14.

What did you use for a gasket ? I've got some 1" wide x 1/16" thick foam gasket I can use (might be too thin).

The folks before me tried at least 3 means of sealing this. Looks like a gasket material, some silicone caulk, and some VERY HARD caulking. I have a very formidable task ahead of me cleaning the surfaces up. Any tips welcome.

Thanks again to all for all the suggestions. I really appreciate them.
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:11 PM   #19
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If you are going to use foam for gasket material, make sure it is closed cell foam, preferably with a "skin" coating. You could also use a strip of rubber or silicone material.

Good selection of a variety of materials here.

www.mcmaster.com/door-weatherstripping
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:40 PM   #20
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Tanks Jmai,

I was going to try the black closed cell foam pictured here. I'm not sure if it's too thin or not. If red the silicone rubber was a bit smaller (less thick), I might try that. I just happened to have both of them them laying around.
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