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Old 08-13-2019, 04:18 AM   #1
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Default 2007 Roadtrek 170 Popular questions

Thanks in advance for your input.

1. Had a mishap with the coax cable coming out of the van roof and going to the antenna. It was cut in half (long story) and needs to be replaced. I'm guessing that if I pull up on the coax where it enters the top of the van, it will be attached to another coax inside the van?

IMG_20190812_190408.jpg

2. I noticed a gap up on top when I was inspecting the coax issue. I have included a picture to show where the gap is. Water has probably entered through this gap as we have water stains under the A/C unit? What is the best way to seal this gap?

IMG_20190812_204833.jpg

3. Noticed what I'm guessing is a vent for the toilet on the van top. I'm including a picture as well. Is there supposed to be a cover of some kind on here?

IMG_20190812_190333.jpg

Thank you,

Luigi
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:52 AM   #2
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Thanks in advance for your input.

1. Had a mishap with the coax cable coming out of the van roof and going to the antenna. It was cut in half (long story) and needs to be replaced. I'm guessing that if I pull up on the coax where it enters the top of the van, it will be attached to another coax inside the van?

Attachment 8009

2. I noticed a gap up on top when I was inspecting the coax issue. I have included a picture to show where the gap is. Water has probably entered through this gap as we have water stains under the A/C unit? What is the best way to seal this gap?

Attachment 8010

3. Noticed what I'm guessing is a vent for the toilet on the van top. I'm including a picture as well. Is there supposed to be a cover of some kind on here?

Attachment 8011

Thank you,

Luigi

The coax may go all the way back to the audio area so could be tough to do. You may just want to get a coax splice, preferably sealed and with rubber boots to fix what you have. Most home store would have the tools and splices, or online places like Amazon. The caulking on the base also looks to need replacing.


I think the cover could use more fasteners to hold it down, and it appears to be warped, so sealing probably wouldn't hold very well. Our 07 190 has way more screws in it than that so you may want to take the cover off and see what is going on. The screws would normally go into some kind of press in nut in the roof flange and those often pull out or spin. I think a complete look is in order on the cover, including some straightening if poossible.


That is the tank vent and comes with no cover. Many of us have put a wire cloth screen over them to keep things out of them.
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:17 PM   #3
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@booster

Thanks so much for your reply.

Will check the color of the coax where it's connected to the box. The gap on the top is a bit more concerning as to a proper fix. Easy enough to secure some mesh around the vent.
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:22 PM   #4
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Someone with a Roadtrek 170 or 190 will know for sure if the gap is a problem. But it may just lead to a drain pan for the rear ac and not be problem of water intrusion inside the coach. So it could be your pan drain is blocked. But definitely need to determine the source of water and get it fixed.

On my Aistream Avenue which as a recessed and covered rooftop ac (although of the typical rv type), water just flows in the top and out the back of the outer shell. No problem. It was made that way.

Congratulations and good luck with your 170.
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:34 PM   #5
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Someone with a Roadtrek 170 or 190 will know for sure if the gap is a problem. But it may just lead to a drain pan for the rear ac and not be problem of water intrusion inside the coach. So it could be your pan drain is blocked. But definitely need to determine the source of water and get it fixed.

On my Aistream Avenue which as a recessed and covered rooftop ac (although of the typical rv type), water just flows in the top and out the back of the outer shell. No problem. It was made that way.

Congratulations and good luck with your 170.

If the 170 is like our 190 there is a flange that the cover bolts to the is shaped like a channel and any water that gets there should follow the channel to the rear. You don't want water going in on that end as it will likely find the inside of the van. The nuts in the flange are even sealed on ours
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:41 AM   #6
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If the 170 is like our 190 there is a flange that the cover bolts to the is shaped like a channel and any water that gets there should follow the channel to the rear. You don't want water going in on that end as it will likely find the inside of the van. The nuts in the flange are even sealed on ours
I will climb up this weekend and check the corner screw. Maybe it's popped up some and causing the gap. We bought it used and not sure how or when this happened. Just part of the things you find later on as you are looking to fix other problems.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:53 AM   #7
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I think that fixing this would be beyond my level of expertise. We bought it used and not sure how or when this happened. Just part of the things you find later on as you are looking to fix other problems.
You might surprise yourself with what you can do. I operate on the "If it's already broken, I can't hurt it by working on it" principle. With the help of this forum and youtube, I've avoided taking mine to the dealer. Plus, I've learned an awful lot about my rig.

If you're able-bodied and careful enough to work safely from a ladder (it helps to have a spotter), you can take the screws off and gain access to the roof ac area. Just don't lose any parts (it's a great idea to take "before" pics on your phone), and if you don't succeed, you can always put the cover back on and go to a dealer for repairs.

Here's are recent ac cover removal thread on a 190P http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...90-a-9493.html Might be something in there for you.

If you choose not to work on it yourself, no problem. But I have to because I have no dealer in my area that I can trust. Hope you find one who is honest and familiar with your model.

Good luck!
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Old 08-14-2019, 04:05 AM   #8
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You might surprise yourself with what you can do. I operate on the "If it's already broken, I can't hurt it by working on it" principle. With the help of this forum and youtube, I've avoided taking mine to the dealer. Plus, I've learned an awful lot about my rig.

If you're able-bodied and careful enough to work safely from a ladder (it helps to have a spotter), you can take the screws off and gain access to the roof ac area. Just don't lose any parts (it's a great idea to take "before" pics on your phone), and if you don't succeed, you can always put the cover back on and go to a dealer for repairs.

Here's are recent ac cover removal thread on a 190P http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...90-a-9493.html Might be something in there for you.

If you choose not to work on it yourself, no problem. But I have to because I have no dealer in my area that I can trust. Hope you find one who is honest and familiar with your model.

Good luck!
Now that I take a second look, I will check the screws, especially that one in the corner where that gap is located. I have a good spotter on hand to assist me. I will take a look at the thread you suggested as well.

Thank you so much for all your help.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:23 PM   #9
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On the TV cable, just splice it back together with proper connectors and use shrink wrap for water proofing. On the inside of the RV, remove the A/C cover and check on the mounting bolts, as they will loosen over time and cause leaks. The gap on the roof can be sealed using Eternal Bond tape as I have used it to seal up seams on a Rialta and LeSharo RV's. I plan on using the tape when I have to reseal my Trend roof (flat roof) when needed. I talked with a Winnebago manager about the tape and he stated a good replacement for sealant.

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Old 08-14-2019, 04:44 PM   #10
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Regarding the water stains under the A/C... I had the same when I acquired my RT190P from my mother. I also have a gap in the cover. Mine’s not in the leading edge, though.

I read something here suggesting that parking nose down is the problem, and I remembered Mom always had it nose down, both in her driveway at home and in the parking lot at the senior apartment she moved into.

I parked it level, maybe a little nose up. It’s been like that for a whole year now, one of the wettest in recent decades, with many torrential, wind-driven thunderstorms as well as days of steady, drenching winter rains. Not a drop has entered the cabin. Last fall I used an upholstery cleaner to carefully blot clean the old water stains, so I’d know right away if any new leaks happened. Nada.

The gaps are still there and I have stopped worrying about them. I haven’t been able to get the screws holding the cover loose to look closely, but from what I can see looking through the rear vent openings with a flashlight, here’s what I think’s going on.

The fiberglass roof has a molded-in recess for the A/C. They cut through the forward vertical wall to install the A/C into the cabin, leaving a lip at the bottom. The floor of the recess is slightly angled so any water that enters, as well as condensation from A/C operation, drains to the rear. If you park with too much of a forward incline, the water doesn’t drain, but instead pools at the front of the recess until it overflows the lip and enters the cabin.

That’s my theory and I’m sticking to it!

Your gap at the front is a little more concerning because water could flow along the A/C unit into the cabin rather than onto the bottom of the recess and out the back. Easy to find out. Park level on a dry day and aim a garden hose at the gap. If the headliner gets damp, you need to seal the gap.
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Old 08-14-2019, 05:30 PM   #11
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Jon, my 190 drains out of the B in each direction depending on front or back leaning whichever way...... down the drip rail to the front if parked that way.

Seems to me that having to lean one way or the other means something is wrong, needs fixing or park it 'correctly' - a guess.
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Old 08-14-2019, 06:08 PM   #12
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Jon, my 190 drains out of the B in each direction depending on front or back leaning whichever way...... down the drip rail to the front if parked that way.

Seems to me that having to lean one way or the other means something is wrong, needs fixing or park it 'correctly' - a guess.

As does ours. The nearest inside area under that cover is very obviously designed as a "dry" area, I think, as it sure looks that way. The only water that should ever get in there would be from the rear louvers and unless going straight horizontally, if won't get far in. Condensate water should get caught in the tray to a drain hose or channel, IIRC.
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:43 PM   #13
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So how do you account for the extensive water infiltration before I got it, and zero infiltration afterward? Could the forward drain channels be plugged up? It was parked under large trees and I have found debris in just about every conceivable nook and cranny. A year and several cleanings later I still find crevices I missed...

I haven't been able to open the cover yet. Tried, but the Phillips head screws securing the cover wouldn't budge. I squirted some penetrating oil and left it for another day.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:14 PM   #14
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So how do you account for the extensive water infiltration before I got it, and zero infiltration afterward? Could the forward drain channels be plugged up? It was parked under large trees and I have found debris in just about every conceivable nook and cranny. A year and several cleanings later I still find crevices I missed...

I haven't been able to open the cover yet. Tried, but the Phillips head screws securing the cover wouldn't budge. I squirted some penetrating oil and left it for another day.

Roadtreks with those style covers and drainage systems have had several different issues over the years that we have heard of. Some of the condensate drain pans had hoses that ran down and out the van at the floor level that got plugged up and held the water back. Others have had stripped screws holding the covers down, or the nuts for those screws not properly sealed to the roof flange that the cover bolts to. Junk, caulking, poor fiberglass work the would prevent water from following the flange to the rear all have showed up.


Not a stellar design, to be sure, and the Roadtrek deteriorating quality over the years certainly didn't help the situations.



From what we have seen, a setup that is properly built and not plugged would have to be very nose down to have that cause a leak in nearly all weather, although severe wind into the rear could make it worse in some cases.


In the case of the OP, the warped cover is certainly going to make it leak as any water on the roof is essentially going in right at the front of that AC cabinet, which is not designed to stop water, as it would be stopped at the roofline.
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Old 08-14-2019, 10:11 PM   #15
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Luigi / Jon,

Here's some clandestine photos I snapped at the Roadtrek factory in 2011, showing the underside of a 190 roof in process. I would expect the 170 to be similar, but 20" shorter. However, note the "small-ish" opera windows at the front, which apparently came on the scene sometime during the 2007 model year. You may have the earlier/larger windows, in which case I can't vouch for how your roof is built. Anyway, for this late model style roof, you can see that it would take an awful lot of water and nose-down angle to spill over that "dam" from the A/C "box" into the interior. However, I'm not sure how they did any drain line from the front of the A/C area, if there is one. (Last photo is of my 09/10 RT 190P.) Note that the A/C would be bolted down to the (fairly thick, I think) wood embedded in the fiberglass. BTW, the way the A/C cover is built (of thin ABS plastic I think), it is difficult/impossible to draw down the front and sides to be watertight, and there is no gasket.

Regards, Dick
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Old 08-14-2019, 11:56 PM   #16
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Interesting. About what I was picturing, and you’re right, if that lip is typical, it seems unlikely to spill over. I’m at a loss, but since I’ve been dry, I’ll keep doing what I’ve been doing. And if that changes, I’ll open it up and have a closer look.

Sorry to sorta hijack this thread, and I hope something here helps the OP.
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Old 08-15-2019, 12:40 AM   #17
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Luigi / Jon,

Here's some clandestine photos I snapped at the Roadtrek factory in 2011, showing the underside of a 190 roof in process. I would expect the 170 to be similar, but 20" shorter. However, note the "small-ish" opera windows at the front, which apparently came on the scene sometime during the 2007 model year. You may have the earlier/larger windows, in which case I can't vouch for how your roof is built. Anyway, for this late model style roof, you can see that it would take an awful lot of water and nose-down angle to spill over that "dam" from the A/C "box" into the interior. However, I'm not sure how they did any drain line from the front of the A/C area, if there is one. (Last photo is of my 09/10 RT 190P.) Note that the A/C would be bolted down to the (fairly thick, I think) wood embedded in the fiberglass. BTW, the way the A/C cover is built (of thin ABS plastic I think), it is difficult/impossible to draw down the front and sides to be watertight, and there is no gasket.

Regards, Dick
Good job. That's a view not many have seen I bet.
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Old 08-15-2019, 03:07 AM   #18
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Thank you all for your suggestions. I will for sure be going up a ladder to see if some of the screws look like they have loosened. I also might as suggested take the cover off completely and re-install it. It will for sure be an adventure. Thanks for the pictures of the fiberglass roof. They are very interesting for sure. The information you guys have provided and continue to provide will prove invaluable.
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:07 PM   #19
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I have an RT 08210P. 1 - I had to replace my TV antenna cable (exterior) and boot. Removed the interior antenna directional crank and found a cable splice above the crank. Was easy to replace the cable from the splice to the top of the antenna and install a new boot. 2 - I have a similar spot on my AC cover, but it's towards the rear on the driver's side. Extra dicor with periodic inspections have solved that issue (during a hard rain in FL one time it did start leaking along the side of one of the interior bottom vents, so that's how I discovered the problem). 3 - I believe the factory did not cover, but I added a Lippert Components 389381 360 Siphon Roof Vent Cap - White (Gen 2) to keep out debris from my neighbor's tree. It's also supposed to help with odor control. Very easy to install and so far has done the job! Good luck!
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:55 PM   #20
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@rowiebowie
I need to remember that quote:
"If it's already broken, I can't hurt it by working on it" principle.
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