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Old 08-13-2019, 04:18 AM   #1
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Default 2007 Roadtrek 170 Popular questions

Thanks in advance for your input.

1. Had a mishap with the coax cable coming out of the van roof and going to the antenna. It was cut in half (long story) and needs to be replaced. I'm guessing that if I pull up on the coax where it enters the top of the van, it will be attached to another coax inside the van?

IMG_20190812_190408.jpg

2. I noticed a gap up on top when I was inspecting the coax issue. I have included a picture to show where the gap is. Water has probably entered through this gap as we have water stains under the A/C unit? What is the best way to seal this gap?

IMG_20190812_204833.jpg

3. Noticed what I'm guessing is a vent for the toilet on the van top. I'm including a picture as well. Is there supposed to be a cover of some kind on here?

IMG_20190812_190333.jpg

Thank you,

Luigi
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:52 AM   #2
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Thanks in advance for your input.

1. Had a mishap with the coax cable coming out of the van roof and going to the antenna. It was cut in half (long story) and needs to be replaced. I'm guessing that if I pull up on the coax where it enters the top of the van, it will be attached to another coax inside the van?

Attachment 8009

2. I noticed a gap up on top when I was inspecting the coax issue. I have included a picture to show where the gap is. Water has probably entered through this gap as we have water stains under the A/C unit? What is the best way to seal this gap?

Attachment 8010

3. Noticed what I'm guessing is a vent for the toilet on the van top. I'm including a picture as well. Is there supposed to be a cover of some kind on here?

Attachment 8011

Thank you,

Luigi

The coax may go all the way back to the audio area so could be tough to do. You may just want to get a coax splice, preferably sealed and with rubber boots to fix what you have. Most home store would have the tools and splices, or online places like Amazon. The caulking on the base also looks to need replacing.


I think the cover could use more fasteners to hold it down, and it appears to be warped, so sealing probably wouldn't hold very well. Our 07 190 has way more screws in it than that so you may want to take the cover off and see what is going on. The screws would normally go into some kind of press in nut in the roof flange and those often pull out or spin. I think a complete look is in order on the cover, including some straightening if poossible.


That is the tank vent and comes with no cover. Many of us have put a wire cloth screen over them to keep things out of them.
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:17 PM   #3
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@booster

Thanks so much for your reply.

Will check the color of the coax where it's connected to the box. The gap on the top is a bit more concerning as to a proper fix. Easy enough to secure some mesh around the vent.
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:22 PM   #4
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Someone with a Roadtrek 170 or 190 will know for sure if the gap is a problem. But it may just lead to a drain pan for the rear ac and not be problem of water intrusion inside the coach. So it could be your pan drain is blocked. But definitely need to determine the source of water and get it fixed.

On my Aistream Avenue which as a recessed and covered rooftop ac (although of the typical rv type), water just flows in the top and out the back of the outer shell. No problem. It was made that way.

Congratulations and good luck with your 170.
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Old 08-13-2019, 10:34 PM   #5
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Someone with a Roadtrek 170 or 190 will know for sure if the gap is a problem. But it may just lead to a drain pan for the rear ac and not be problem of water intrusion inside the coach. So it could be your pan drain is blocked. But definitely need to determine the source of water and get it fixed.

On my Aistream Avenue which as a recessed and covered rooftop ac (although of the typical rv type), water just flows in the top and out the back of the outer shell. No problem. It was made that way.

Congratulations and good luck with your 170.

If the 170 is like our 190 there is a flange that the cover bolts to the is shaped like a channel and any water that gets there should follow the channel to the rear. You don't want water going in on that end as it will likely find the inside of the van. The nuts in the flange are even sealed on ours
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:41 AM   #6
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If the 170 is like our 190 there is a flange that the cover bolts to the is shaped like a channel and any water that gets there should follow the channel to the rear. You don't want water going in on that end as it will likely find the inside of the van. The nuts in the flange are even sealed on ours
I will climb up this weekend and check the corner screw. Maybe it's popped up some and causing the gap. We bought it used and not sure how or when this happened. Just part of the things you find later on as you are looking to fix other problems.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:53 AM   #7
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I think that fixing this would be beyond my level of expertise. We bought it used and not sure how or when this happened. Just part of the things you find later on as you are looking to fix other problems.
You might surprise yourself with what you can do. I operate on the "If it's already broken, I can't hurt it by working on it" principle. With the help of this forum and youtube, I've avoided taking mine to the dealer. Plus, I've learned an awful lot about my rig.

If you're able-bodied and careful enough to work safely from a ladder (it helps to have a spotter), you can take the screws off and gain access to the roof ac area. Just don't lose any parts (it's a great idea to take "before" pics on your phone), and if you don't succeed, you can always put the cover back on and go to a dealer for repairs.

Here's are recent ac cover removal thread on a 190P http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...90-a-9493.html Might be something in there for you.

If you choose not to work on it yourself, no problem. But I have to because I have no dealer in my area that I can trust. Hope you find one who is honest and familiar with your model.

Good luck!
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Old 08-14-2019, 04:05 AM   #8
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You might surprise yourself with what you can do. I operate on the "If it's already broken, I can't hurt it by working on it" principle. With the help of this forum and youtube, I've avoided taking mine to the dealer. Plus, I've learned an awful lot about my rig.

If you're able-bodied and careful enough to work safely from a ladder (it helps to have a spotter), you can take the screws off and gain access to the roof ac area. Just don't lose any parts (it's a great idea to take "before" pics on your phone), and if you don't succeed, you can always put the cover back on and go to a dealer for repairs.

Here's are recent ac cover removal thread on a 190P http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...90-a-9493.html Might be something in there for you.

If you choose not to work on it yourself, no problem. But I have to because I have no dealer in my area that I can trust. Hope you find one who is honest and familiar with your model.

Good luck!
Now that I take a second look, I will check the screws, especially that one in the corner where that gap is located. I have a good spotter on hand to assist me. I will take a look at the thread you suggested as well.

Thank you so much for all your help.
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Old 08-14-2019, 03:23 PM   #9
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On the TV cable, just splice it back together with proper connectors and use shrink wrap for water proofing. On the inside of the RV, remove the A/C cover and check on the mounting bolts, as they will loosen over time and cause leaks. The gap on the roof can be sealed using Eternal Bond tape as I have used it to seal up seams on a Rialta and LeSharo RV's. I plan on using the tape when I have to reseal my Trend roof (flat roof) when needed. I talked with a Winnebago manager about the tape and he stated a good replacement for sealant.

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Old 08-14-2019, 04:44 PM   #10
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Regarding the water stains under the A/C... I had the same when I acquired my RT190P from my mother. I also have a gap in the cover. Mine’s not in the leading edge, though.

I read something here suggesting that parking nose down is the problem, and I remembered Mom always had it nose down, both in her driveway at home and in the parking lot at the senior apartment she moved into.

I parked it level, maybe a little nose up. It’s been like that for a whole year now, one of the wettest in recent decades, with many torrential, wind-driven thunderstorms as well as days of steady, drenching winter rains. Not a drop has entered the cabin. Last fall I used an upholstery cleaner to carefully blot clean the old water stains, so I’d know right away if any new leaks happened. Nada.

The gaps are still there and I have stopped worrying about them. I haven’t been able to get the screws holding the cover loose to look closely, but from what I can see looking through the rear vent openings with a flashlight, here’s what I think’s going on.

The fiberglass roof has a molded-in recess for the A/C. They cut through the forward vertical wall to install the A/C into the cabin, leaving a lip at the bottom. The floor of the recess is slightly angled so any water that enters, as well as condensation from A/C operation, drains to the rear. If you park with too much of a forward incline, the water doesn’t drain, but instead pools at the front of the recess until it overflows the lip and enters the cabin.

That’s my theory and I’m sticking to it!

Your gap at the front is a little more concerning because water could flow along the A/C unit into the cabin rather than onto the bottom of the recess and out the back. Easy to find out. Park level on a dry day and aim a garden hose at the gap. If the headliner gets damp, you need to seal the gap.
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