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Old 07-27-2018, 10:49 PM   #1
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Default Back Again: Dometic fridge!

Ok, so I put the Dometic 2310 back in the RV. Installed a pair of 12v computer fans to aid circulation around coils. Can't get a decent temp on propane (you might recall that I had a good test on 120v. in garage). While it was out I cleaned flue, burner tube and jet. So I took it to my (reliable in the past) RV repair place and told them the issue, asked them to run a leak down test, and test the LP pressure at the fridge port. They did that and everything checked out ok...good flame height at the burner. Then they fired it up on propane and checked it the next day. Fridge 58deg, freezer 25. Then they went back and hooked it up to 120v and ran it for a day. Fridge 38deg, freezer 5deg.

At this point they're stumped and have a call in to Dometic tech support.

Has anyone experienced something similar to this? Any ideas?

Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:31 PM   #2
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Do you know if the flame was still going when they checked the temperature on day 2?
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:53 PM   #3
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Yep, did you put the 4 inches of insulation on top of the fridge when you put it back in the RV? If you did not the flame heat is directed over the fridge heating it up.
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:11 AM   #4
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No I don't. I can ask. Gather from your query that it's possible for the flame to have gone out? As far as I know, they ran it a day on propane after running the pressure tests. Then the next morning they took the temp readings, shut the propane off and ran it on 120v. Then checked temp the following morning.
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:20 AM   #5
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No. There never was any insulation above the fridge when I removed it. My cabinetry has a strip above the fridge that, when the fridge is installed, provides a pretty tight fit. There were insulation strips on the sides which I replaced in their original positions. The fridge worked fine for years before without this insulation. The master puzzle.

On the 2310 the gas passes through a manual valve which is opened when you turn the fridge to the gas position. It then passes through the thermostat. Then to the jet and finally to the burner tube. I cleaned the jet and the tube.
That seems to leave the thermostat and the gas valve. But the pressure test port is on the housing with the jet (i.e. after the valve and the thermostat).
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Old 07-28-2018, 04:00 AM   #6
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I have a Dometic fridge that is exquisitely sensitive to propane pressure. It MUST be minimum 11 WC as the test port at all times or it performs very poorly.

Some techs think that 10 WC is “good enough” and for most purposes it is. Not for this fridge.

If it performs on electric then the cooling system works. The propane mode isn’t putting as much energy into the equation.
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Old 07-28-2018, 11:04 AM   #7
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+1 on double checking gas pressure. There is 12" water column at the fridge in my van's test port when all other propane appliances are off. It measures 11" WC at the fridge when other propane fueled items are running.

If the flame went out overnight then that could indicate a problem with the thermocouple. It could just be the positioning of the thermocouple.

I keep thinking that your thermostat is working because of the excellent cooling in AC mode.

The flame is either full on or in bypass (like a pilot light) or off in your fridge. It does not vary other than those three. The thermostat controls the length of time at full on flame. When the set temperature is reached the flame goes to bypass mode. When cooling is required again the flame goes to full on.

As CaDreamin pointed out - The propane mode isn’t putting as much energy into the equation - for some reason. Low pressure or flame out seems like the primary causes. I don't know if the quality of the propane would affect the fridge much as we're only talking about 200 watts of heat or so to make the fridge work properly.
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Old 08-02-2018, 02:56 PM   #8
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Any progress Gallen?

This is one fridge problem that I'd sure like to know what the fix ends up being.
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:29 AM   #9
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Following. Mine runs fine, but then when I go to AC and then back to Propane, it won't kick on. Propane is flowing, igniter working, but it' won't light up. Different problem than yours, because my check light comes on, but make me wonder if there is a pressure issue, because after it sits in the heat for an hour or so, it will come on once I restart it.
I keep hearing to check the propane pressure, but how do you adjust it?
Thanks
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Old 08-08-2018, 01:36 PM   #10
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Check out Measuring Your Gas Pressure with Homemade Manometer here: Measuring Gas Pressure with Manometer
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