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Old 05-16-2016, 04:57 PM   #1
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Default Fridge access

1988 Dodge Roadtrek Versatile, Dometic fridge. I would like to clean the burner and flue, it does not seem to be possible without removing the fridge. Any suggestions, I am considering cutting an access hole and installing a hatch.Anyone else have solutions otherwise.
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:14 PM   #2
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I know this post is bit old, but I find myself in the same position. I have an 03 190 Versatile. I want to clean burner and flue but can't seem to get at from the outside. I haven't thought about the idea of a hatch. I would also be curious as to how to remove the black grate that is above the fridge access panel, and just under the window. It appears to be part of the window assembly. If I could get THAT off, I may be able to get a flue brush in, and then vacuum the debris out with a wand of some sort.

Hopefully someone has some ideas.

Thanks. P.../NH
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:30 PM   #3
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my PW has top and bottom plastic grill, like the one some RT's have on the bottom.

with both removed servicing the fridge is straight forward- I just did what the manual tells me. to clean the flue, jet etc.

there has to be a way to remove your top grill...if it is not apparent, I'm sure an RT owner can clue us in

Mike
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Old 02-26-2017, 03:46 PM   #4
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MK, Tnx for the reply. The problem with my RT is that the access panel, only reveals the left 1/2 of the rear of the fridge as you're looking at it. The burner and flue assy is on the far right and BEHIND the van body.

Attached pics, may make more sense.

Tnx.

P.../NH
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RT Fridge Access1.jpg (41.5 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg RT Fridge Access2.jpg (78.3 KB, 7 views)
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Old 02-26-2017, 04:32 PM   #5
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I'd show you my access, but you'd be depressed.

let's see who has the secret to getting into that top vent panel.
i'd hope that by looking into the vent with a light, you'd see latches you can turn with a screwdriver 9 look for previous tool marks)




while you are in there you may want to consider adding a fan kit.

I have added 3 fans, 1 is controlled by a temp sensor, the other 2 are controlled by switch. I also have a fan inside the fridge.
I also rotate blue freezer packs between the freezer and fridge door shelves

on shore power or propane I can reliably get 60 below ambient temps--- which in PHX will work when it's 100 outside.
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Old 02-26-2017, 05:41 PM   #6
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MK,

Tell me more about the fan kits please. Link?

Tnx
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:44 PM   #7
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You can google- there are few kits available for sale.

i work with electronics, so i bought a bunch of fans on ebay and installed.

mike
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Old 02-26-2017, 06:51 PM   #8
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We have a 97 dodge Roadtrek, and I actually found it much easier to just remove the fridge to do the cleaning and maintenence with the flue. It really only takes about 20 minutes to completely remove the fridge, there are some screws on the front holding it into wooden frame, after those are removed, disconnect the propane line, then the 110volt plug in receptacle wich is easy todo, then all that is left is the 2 wires for the 12volt supply, carefully mark where you took them from, so they go back in the right place...Those fridge fans are a great idea, they really do make a big improvement in the air circulation, which results in better cooling. I added 3 fans to the back of my fridge, placed a on/off switch, so I could control it better.very happy with the results so far,, very cheap to do, and done it all in one afternoon,, I will include some pics of my installl, hope it helps,,,,, take care,,,,
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File Type: jpg 20160607_171610.jpg (191.7 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20160607_171644.jpg (177.0 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 20160607_171653.jpg (201.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg 20160607_171621.jpg (154.1 KB, 10 views)
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Old 02-26-2017, 08:15 PM   #9
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peppster, Thanks so much for the info and the pics. If I end up pulling the fridge, I'll follow your directions.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:57 PM   #10
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I just wanted to mention about the top vent, the black grate that is attatched to the widow...Take it from me, Do Not Bother With It!!!!!!!!I thought it would be a good idea, but it wasn't, You have to remove the microwave, the curtains, all the side panels, all the window casings, the top of the kitchen counter, and then when you finally get to the window/grate, it is attatched by a screw on metal casing around the window, that was clearly installed before any of the cabinitery was installed, because some of the screws are almost impossible to reach . without stripping them, because of the angle you have to remove them,, ,It is possible, but that is one project that was not worth the trouble, and when you finally get it out, there is no benefit, because the fridge is only half way under the grate, and the other half behind the cabinitery.....That was a hard day, full of curse words, scraped knuckles, and no better off in the end, take it from me,,,,,,,Its not worth the trouble,,,,,,,,take care,,,,,
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Old 02-28-2017, 06:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peppster66 View Post
That was a hard day, full of curse words, scraped knuckles, and no better off in the end, take it from me,,,,,,,Its not worth the trouble,,,,,,,,take care,,,,,
Thanks for learning that for us. I've been eyeballing the upper vent and thinking about trying to take it off. When I need to service the fridge it is coming out.
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Old 02-28-2017, 06:51 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by PJW73NH View Post
MK,

Tell me more about the fan kits please. Link?

Tnx
These folks at arpv.com sell fan kits and controllers but are rather pricey. If you're handy at some lightweight fabrication and wiring you could make the same setup for less. There are any number of fans and thermal switches available on Amazon and eBay. This page has a very well done side vent cutaway drawing about halfway down that illustrates what you want to accomplish. https://www.arprv.com/rv-fridge-fan.php

Additionally most class B's have the wrong clearances in back of and above the fridge according to the manufacturers installation guides. They generally spec no more than an inch of clearance behind the coils and many vans have three or four. That reduces convection and airflow through the coils. At the top of the fridge there should be a curved baffle connecting to the top vent and most have empty space up there that lets hot air collect. This article http://www.redroverroadtrek.com/Ques...y%20Fridge.pdf is a good writeup of improving the factory install for proper airflow.
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by fwdanielson View Post
Thanks for learning that for us. I've been eyeballing the upper vent and thinking about trying to take it off. When I need to service the fridge it is coming out.

Why?

Bud
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:33 PM   #14
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Why?

Bud
Why service? The fridge is 20 years old and could stand a good flue cleaning. It struggles to keep up with the hot Florida weather at times and I plan to re-install using the manufacturer's specifications for venting along with additional fans for circulation.

Why remove it? It would be much more difficult to perform the service with the fridge installed.
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by fwdanielson View Post
Why service? The fridge is 20 years old and could stand a good flue cleaning. It struggles to keep up with the hot Florida weather at times and I plan to re-install using the manufacturer's specifications for venting along with additional fans for circulation.

Why remove it? It would be much more difficult to perform the service with the fridge installed.

Could be that I'm not understanding. I understand removing the refer, just not the upper vent. I thought that all could be done with the upper vent as is?

Bud
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:04 PM   #16
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Could be that I'm not understanding. I understand removing the refer, just not the upper vent. I thought that all could be done with the upper vent as is?

Bud
Sorry for the confusion. I meant remove the fridge instead of attempting to remove the upper vent. Once the fridge is out you can access anything and the upper vent can be left alone.
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