Fridge not lighting or staying lit

Deiganator · 10-25-2018, 08:30 PM

Hi all,

I have a Norcold 6052 2-way.

It sparks but does not ignite most of the time. When it does light it will not stay lit.

I've cleaned out the burner and flue and it worked better the next time I tried it, but quickly reverted back.

The wires/sparker look good.

I am thinking it's the ignitiion module, but am looking for other suggestions to try before ordering a new one.

RV service centres here can't test the board for me and Norcold won't help due to "liability".

Thanks,
Mike

rvsprinterguy · 10-26-2018, 12:49 AM

I've had similar problems with my Norcold refrigerator. What fixed it for me was replacing the burner.

Deiganator · 10-26-2018, 01:03 AM

Thanks, what made you try a new burner?

Deiganator · 10-26-2018, 01:05 AM

Did it look corroded?

hbn7hj · 10-26-2018, 03:32 AM

Either it is not getting proper spark or not getting proper propane. Clean the orifice and make sure the propane solenoid is opening when you put the cleaned or new burner assembly in. You should carry a spare board with you. All this is just an opinion. I don't own a Norcold. Let us know the results when you correct the problem, please.

rvsprinterguy · 10-26-2018, 03:40 AM

Yes, mine was quite corroded. I tried very hard to clean the "slots" in the burner, but never felt like I was getting them clean enough. I put in a new one and that solved my problem.

rvsprinterguy · 10-26-2018, 03:41 AM

It's a good idea to purchase a spare. When I needed a new one, I bought two.

Deiganator · 10-26-2018, 02:33 PM

Hm, thanks for the response. My burner is clean and completely uncorroded and when it does light (only a few times out of dozens of attempts) it burns good for a few minutes but the fridge turns off.

rvsprinterguy · 10-26-2018, 03:37 PM

I'm sorry my easy fix won't work for you. I just looked up the 6052 specs, and I see it's a newer unit than I have. Mine's manually lit.

Good luck with your troubleshooting.

booster · 10-26-2018, 03:47 PM

The obvious thing would be that if it lights but won't stay lit it is very possibley lack of gas. Time to check the gas pressure at the frig to see if you have adequate pressure. If not, you may have a bad regulator, restricted line, etc.

Mark Williams · 11-01-2018, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deiganator

Hi all,

I have a Norcold 6052 2-way.

It sparks but does not ignite most of the time. When it does light it will not stay lit.

I've cleaned out the burner and flue and it worked better the next time I tried it, but quickly reverted back.

The wires/sparker look good.

I am thinking it's the ignitiion module, but am looking for other suggestions to try before ordering a new one.

RV service centres here can't test the board for me and Norcold won't help due to "liability".

Thanks,
Mike

I have had similar problems with my Dometic. I I removed the draft cover, cleaned the burner, and snap switch - I believe it is called a pyrometer- reinstalled the draft guard. This seems to have solved the problem.

Bertiboo · 11-02-2018, 04:35 AM

Have you adjusted the thermocouple position to make sure it’s in the flame? Or replaced the thermocouple? It’s purpose is to produce a Millivolt current that keeps the gas valve open when you let go of the light button. If the thermocouple isn’t getting enough heat,or is shot, the valve wont stay open and the flame will go out. Period.

Deiganator · 11-02-2018, 06:39 PM

Thanks everyone. I just cleaned the thermocouple and confirmed its in the correct position and it lit and stayed lit for about 10 minutes then when I went back it was out again. I turned it off/on and it re-lit for a few minutes, then went out, then re-lit again one or two more times then stayed on again. I will triple check the burned by removing it and giving a good inspection and cleaning. But there's a good amount of pitting on the thermocouple so I'm thinking it may just need replacing?

Deiganator · 11-03-2018, 05:54 PM

OK, so I pulled the burner out and gave it a good wire brushing and now it won't light or spark at all again!

Oh, I did find that the 12v negative lead was plugged into J1, when the manual indicates it should be connected to J3 so I moved it but it had no effect.

To Summarize:

1. Originally it was not even lighting or sparking except for 1 or 2 rare occasions but would go out in a minute
2. Cleaning out the rust made it work better temporarily
3. Brushing off the thermocouple made it work almost perfect but would go out and sometimes re-light itself
4. Removing, cleaning and replacing the burner reverted back to it not lighting at all again

See attached photos.

Any other thoughts would be much appreciated!

Thanks

hbn7hj · 11-03-2018, 06:14 PM

Doesn't look clean to me. Get the corrosion off the ignitor tip and the burner. Use Naval Jelly (any car parts store) if a wire brush won't do it. I'd probably replace the fridge, it looks pretty decrepit.

Deiganator · 11-03-2018, 06:42 PM

I will try cleaning it more but it worked better before cleaning it so that confuses me...

I'd love to replace the fridge but since I'm on here trying to troubleshoot that should give you a clue that I can't afford to lol

markopolo · 11-03-2018, 07:20 PM

It looks like there is gas pressure test port showing in the first photo. It would be good idea to confirm the fridge is getting the correct LPG pressure as part of your overall troubleshooting.

It would be a low cost DIY job if you're comfortable working with propane etc. -> Measuring Gas Pressure with Manometer

The pressure specs look to be printed near the test port.

hbn7hj · 11-03-2018, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deiganator

I will try cleaning it more but it worked better before cleaning it so that confuses me...

I'd love to replace the fridge but since I'm on here trying to troubleshoot that should give you a clue that I can't afford to lol

Well, let's get it working. We need to see some bare metal on the burner and ignitor. Navel Jelly will do it.

GallenH · 11-03-2018, 08:50 PM

Having gone through some LP problems on a Dometic I have to say that you should follow hbn7hj's advice and get all of the rust off of the burner components. Has to be super clean. Then follow markopolo's recommendation to do (or have someone do) a pressure test at the fridge port. Google and find out the exact specs if you are doing it yourself. My dometic needed a pressure of 11...with half of the other appliances (stove, heater, water heater, etc.) running. IOW, it wasn't supposed to dip below 11, and was not supposed to exceed 12 with those appliances shut off. Very finicky specs.

Deiganator · 11-04-2018, 02:38 AM

OK thanks, I will clean the burner down to bare metal and I'm just going to replace the thermocouple since they are only $16.

I'll also remove the LP feed tube from the solenoid to the burned and blow that out in case there is any obstructions in the bottom of the loop. I am pretty sure when I was able to see the flame I saw yellow.

If that doesn't work, I think I will just wait until I get it insured again and get a propane inspection since it needs one anyway.

Pretty sure I got multiple things going on...

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