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Old 08-27-2017, 12:13 AM   #1
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Talking about the Black Water and why the F&&^&ing handle keeps working its way out and dumping into the waste pipe...while I am driving.
It has happened more than once...and it is not a happy surprise...to take of the end cap and have a load of C(*^P end up at my feet and over everything.
So why does the rod with the handle work its way out as I drive....and it takes maybe a hundred miles plus?
And then, how to fix that?
And I am sorry to the guys that have to wait at a dump site while I clean up everything....the wait is worth it.

eric
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:15 AM   #2
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.

You can use a bungee cord to hold the gate handle?

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Old 08-27-2017, 12:47 AM   #3
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I wish that would work. There is no place to hold the handle back in the closed position.

I want to know why it is happening...
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Old 08-27-2017, 01:11 AM   #4
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Don't know your exact set-up, but if the handle is connected to a rod that goes through a hanging vertical support, you could use a small, 4" pair of vice grips behind the support. This should prevent the rod from moving forward and the vice grips are easy to lock and unlock. You could also put a rubber grommet next to the support to control noise and prevent the vice grips from rattling.
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:05 AM   #5
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You could replace the manual valve with an electric one, I doubt it would open by itself. https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Drain...2dm20-rpms.htm, https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-E100.../dp/B004RCXC1G

I had a few of black water valves and never had self-opening incidents. Is it possible that valve gate seal(s) are missing and the only friction you have is on the gate’s rod?
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:14 AM   #6
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You might want to try tightening the clamping bolts on the valve itself. These would be the 4 bolts that actually hold the sandwhich of the valve together. Went clamped together, the bolts should be putting some pressure on the slider to make it seal correctly and stay in the position it is set to.
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Old 08-27-2017, 01:06 PM   #7
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.

You can use a bungee cord to hold the gate handle?

Or you can pad the inner part of the dump handles door with foam like material that will put pressure on the handle and help it remain shut/closed, until you can come up with a more permanent solution? Just thinking out loud...
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Old 08-27-2017, 05:32 PM   #8
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Getting an appointment to have this fixed. My ERA is only 4 months old. The sad part (other than the actual problem ) is that last time I got an appointment to have warranty work done, it took almost 2 months to get into the shop..there goes the summer.
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:50 PM   #9
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Getting an appointment to have this fixed. My ERA is only 4 months old. The sad part (other than the actual problem ) is that last time I got an appointment to have warranty work done, it took almost 2 months to get into the shop..there goes the summer.
Eric, that's to bad. I know things will work out and maybe we'll see ya down the road soon. Be safe, stay alert and enjoy the ride. Best. Shorty sends...
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Old 08-27-2017, 07:05 PM   #10
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Getting an appointment to have this fixed. My ERA is only 4 months old. The sad part (other than the actual problem ) is that last time I got an appointment to have warranty work done, it took almost 2 months to get into the shop..there goes the summer.
Hi Eric,

If a Roadtrek Dealer won't do warranty work for 2 months, can someone else do the work with Roadtrek agreeing? What about 3 months.......

Since this is 'only' the black water tank and sh*t, just use wag bags or equivalent. Some folks use only these, no black water tank. You already have a toilet!

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Old 08-27-2017, 08:00 PM   #11
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Hi Eric,

If a Roadtrek Dealer won't do warranty work for 2 months, can someone else do the work with Roadtrek agreeing? What about 3 months.......

Since this is 'only' the black water tank and sh*t, just use wag bags or equivalent. Some folks use only these, no black water tank. You already have a toilet!

Bud
ERA is Winnebago.
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:05 PM   #12
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Thanks all!

I will try to tighten up the 4 bolts...and yes, the metal shaft has no pressure on it..at all...pulls out like nothing is attached.
again , thanks all of you for your ideas..

Eric
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:50 PM   #13
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On occasion when I had problems with my previous RV I took repair into my own hands even under the warranty, in your case I would likely do it by myself or just clean it by myself and had a dealer by choice get it fixed. This could be a really trivial issue.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:11 PM   #14
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On occasion when I had problems with my previous RV I took repair into my own hands even under the warranty, in your case I would likely do it by myself or just clean it by myself and had a dealer by choice get it fixed. This could be a really trivial issue.
Yes, it perhaps could be and I have tools and know how to use them.

Just looking at the situation, I want it fixed correctly and am willing to wait..( kicking self ) I have tightened the bolts...still no pressure on the rod, so I suspect it is not fixed.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:17 PM   #15
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Eric, facing the lag time for warranty work...and the quality of that repair, I agree to tackle yourself. Another thing would to be go on a trip and show up a RT Dealer, and ask for assistance. Then I am very sure there are folks on here that can help you repair the problem. Even under warranty, I try and avoid going in - I know the support I can get here if I am in a jam, plus I trust my time and effort to bring about a good solution. Ron
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:35 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=Eric Swenson;61875]……………..I want it fixed correctly and am willing to wait..( kicking self ) I have tightened the bolts...still no pressure on the rod, so I suspect it is not fixed.[/QUOTE

One of the reason why I did it myself. Sorry for being pessimistic about RV services, but, my distrust is based on personal experience. A possible temporary fix could be a cap with garden hose connection, it would easy cleaning up messy shtaff.

Best of luck,

George.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:42 PM   #17
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Can you us show a picture of your handle/mechanism setup?

I hope I am not overly simplistic. This should a rather straightforward linkage/detent adjustment. Forget the shop with the 2 month delay. Forget the warranty.

Any mechanic should be able to repair/adjust your problem in an hour. Save the receipt. Deal with the manufacturer and warranty later. Just get it done tomorrow and then go camping. You do have recourse, and should be able to get your RV repaired in a timely fashion.

If I spent a hundred grand on a rig, and the dealer put my warranty work off for 2 months, they may find themselves on the receiving end of my leaking blackwater tank.
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:40 PM   #18
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Don't know about Winnebago, but we had an awning issue with our new Crossfit and couldn't find a dealer who would do warranty work in less than two months. I called Coachmen and got authorization to go to a non-dealer repair shop and be reimbursed. You might be able to do the same.
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Old 08-28-2017, 07:12 PM   #19
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Don't know about Winnebago, but we had an awning issue with our new Crossfit and couldn't find a dealer who would do warranty work in less than two months. I called Coachmen and got authorization to go to a non-dealer repair shop and be reimbursed. You might be able to do the same.
Seems the best way to go for a quicker warranty repair.
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:39 AM   #20
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Being a wood worker, I have designed a temporary fix. Hardwood 2x6 trimed down with a routed out area that pushes against the offending handle. The other end is angled to fit snugly against the outside angled door when it is closed.
Temporary...until Oct.5, my appointment with shop doing warranty work.

thanks all...and may you never have this same problem..(smile)
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