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Old 08-25-2018, 02:04 PM   #1
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Default Lubricating black/grey water valuves ?

I have a 2007 Roadtrek 210 and I have noticed that the grey water valve operates with some difficulty when opening and closing it. There doesn't seem to be a way to lubricate these guillotine valves from the outside without disassembling them (I would rather not...). Has anyone every tried putting anything in the tank that might lubricate the valves ? I was thinking liquid dish soap, etc. while the tanks are empty and in storage to try to loosen the valves. Does anyone have any tried and true remedies ?
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Old 08-25-2018, 03:28 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by jbucking View Post
I have a 2007 Roadtrek 210 and I have noticed that the grey water valve operates with some difficulty when opening and closing it. There doesn't seem to be a way to lubricate these guillotine valves from the outside without disassembling them (I would rather not...). Has anyone every tried putting anything in the tank that might lubricate the valves ? I was thinking liquid dish soap, etc. while the tanks are empty and in storage to try to loosen the valves. Does anyone have any tried and true remedies ?
I've always thought that lubricating the valves was a necessity. After dumping the tanks, you add some lubrication. There are products you can buy for this, Walmart often has it in the RV area. I just use mineral oil, baby oil - a few ounces.

Someone here may know what would happen, but if me in this situation. I would empty the tanks and add a bunch of mineral oil. Drive a little to make sure it is at the valve. Let it sit for quite awhile, then start opening and closing the valves. Then decide that next step.

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Old 08-25-2018, 04:22 PM   #3
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i do the same as Bud described in his post above on our 2007 RT 210P. Years ago, a lot of folks swore by coconut oil. Yep. Coconut oil. Mineral oil is more generally available and the commercial product to do this is very inexpensive. Incidentally, I tried the coconut oil a long time ago - ONCE - and found it to be a gooey mess and swore I would never try it again.

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Old 08-25-2018, 04:31 PM   #4
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Just eat more greasy foods.
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Old 08-25-2018, 04:59 PM   #5
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.

Mineral oil will dissolve certain plastic/rubber.

A silicone lubricant is preferred.
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Old 08-25-2018, 05:18 PM   #6
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some years ago I used to put RV antifreeze in the toilet bowl when we stored our trailer for the winter months - but some times when we would pull the trailer out of storage to head south in Feb. I would find that the antifreeze had leaked away.

Worse, when we got south to the warm weather I would find that the bowl seal would not hold water and had to fool with the seal for several days to get it to seal again.

I was told on one of the forums that it was not a good idea to leave antifreeze in the bowl as it was not friendly to the seal and to use veg. oil in the toilet instead - So I started doing that, either olive oil or Canola and that did indeed solve the bowl seal issue. The oil remained in the toilet bowl throughout the winter months and once I started using teh trailer again, it would hold water just fine.

Someone dod tell me the veg. oil would leave a gummy mess and I would be better using baby oil so I switched to that - in fact both types of oil seemed fine.

I also read that dumping oil into gray and black tanks was beneficial to the slide valves, so started doing it on a regular basis.

However since then I have read that mineral oils (I think baby oil is mineral oil) cabn casue seal swelling and maybe problems. so I'm not really sure what is best to use.

I think at least one of the commercially available slide valve lubes uses coconut oil so I msy go that route when we get our new "B" next month.

I plan to start adding some sort of slide valve lube from day one to hopefully minimise possible slide valve problems. I always dread the day I pull the black tank slide and the operating rod pulls out from the blade leaving a full tank of waste to somehow deal with and hope never to have to deal with that situation!

So far I have been lucky for about 40 years of RV'ing!

Does anyone have any definitive info on the best product to use?

I'm guessing that for valve lubrication the best time to add it is when the tanks are virtually empty. So that the oil floating on top of the waste will gradually rise with the tank level and hopefully coat the valve face - at least of the inside.

Brian.
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Old 08-25-2018, 05:21 PM   #7
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Coconut oil can solidify. I think that we concern me. I have found vegetable oil highly recommended on other sites. Supposedly vegetable oil will not solidify or even freeze (hopefully I never need to find out...) I believe I will give some vegetable oil a try. I don't think it can hurt and the RV is going to be sitting for a while so it is worth a good soak. Thanks for everyone's help.
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:12 PM   #8
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This could be very simple and convenient for some of you not having to purchase anything. For those of you that drink Pina Coladas , just pour some of the drink, assuming you have plenty, down the drain and toilet.

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Old 08-25-2018, 07:38 PM   #9
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We used Olive oil in our head on our sailboat for years and never had a problem, while others who used many other lubes, as well as vegetable oil, ran into problems.
We have continued using the cheapest olive oil in our black and grey tanks for many years and never had an issue. 1/4 cup in the sink and toilet after every dump seems to be more than enough.
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Old 08-25-2018, 09:42 PM   #10
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We used Olive oil in our head on our sailboat . . .


How much garlic do you add?

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Old 08-25-2018, 11:34 PM   #11
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Well, based on Prairieboy's experience maybe I will start out with olive oil when we get our new B and try the 1/4 cup per dump rate.

I did start out using olive oil on our last trailer and then switched to the cheapest veggie oil I could find, thinking it would be little different.

But if some people have had problems with cheaper veggie oil, then I'll pay a few pennies more for olive oil - although I'm not sure what the difference would be, isn't that veggie oil too basically?

Brian.

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Old 08-26-2018, 12:55 PM   #12
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I've seen a few videos posted by full-time or experienced RVers on YouTube indicating they use marine-type head lubricant in their coaches to keep seals and values in good working order.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:29 PM   #13
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I've seen a few videos posted by full-time or experienced RVers on YouTube indicating they use marine-type head lubricant in their coaches to keep seals and values in good working order.
Thetford sells a lubricant that I'm using, but not every time I dump. But it's very pricey at over $10 for a bottle that's about 20 oz. Good for 2-4 treatments of both tanks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Drain-Va...item1cb1711aa4

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Old 08-26-2018, 04:25 PM   #14
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Dumping large amounts of something into your tanks seems like a pretty inefficient way to lubricate these valves. But I guess it is the only easy option.

Would be nice if the design of these valves provided for a better technique.
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:45 PM   #15
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Dumping large amounts of something into your tanks seems like a pretty inefficient way to lubricate these valves. But I guess it is the only easy option.

Would be nice if the design of these valves provided for a better technique.
I agree. The replacement valves are cheap and if it weren't such a messy job, I'd just run them until they start to bind up and then install a new one.
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:01 PM   #16
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1 cup mineral oil in each tank is what Roadtrek recommended at the recent owner's seminar.
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:04 PM   #17
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I’m going to make a fortune by Mfg new valves with ‘zerk’ Fittings in them... Compatible silicone grease guns included...haha
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:47 PM   #18
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This seems like a good idea to keep slide valves working well.
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Old 08-30-2018, 06:11 PM   #19
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I did what winegeezer posted (drill hole in valve housing) and have used silicone spray. It appears to be a good thing.

Due to valve orientation, I had to put the hole in the side of one of the valve's housing and only use a screw long enough to seal the hole and not interfere with the blade opening.

the other issue is the sheet metal guard around the macerator has to be removed and the Roadtrek 07C210 raised to access the valves.
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Old 08-30-2018, 06:16 PM   #20
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I found this video some time ago that explains how to lubricate the valves. I haven't tried it but would be interested to know if anyone has.

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