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Old 02-27-2017, 05:29 AM   #1
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Default Problems with Dometic 3-way refrigerator

We purchased a 2015 Pleasureway Excel and the 3-way Dometic refrigerator works really well on 120v and propane when we're stopped. However, when we drive with propane on, the refrigerator temp quickly soars into the 50s or 60s. Not sure if it's flaming out or what. Have had this into 3 different mechanics with no success. Anybody else have this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:20 AM   #2
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We purchased a 2015 Pleasureway Excel and the 3-way Dometic refrigerator works really well on 120v and propane when we're stopped. However, when we drive with propane on, the refrigerator temp quickly soars into the 50s or 60s. Not sure if it's flaming out or what. Have had this into 3 different mechanics with no success. Anybody else have this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Probably the wind buffeting prevented the heater to function properly.

Some people have added a wind shield to the burner.

Google might turn up some pix.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:58 AM   #3
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We used to have the same problem, I think it has to do with the wind knocking out the flame on our fridge. When we would get to our destination, most of the time, the flame would be out, and the fridge would be getting warmer. I really have much better cooling if I switch the fridge to 12volt while I am driving. I also feel a little safer without the propane turned on while I am driving. I was always scared that I would forget to turn it off before pulling into a gas station.....
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:01 PM   #4
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Google might turn up some pix.



one of my favorites, some Roadtrek models have the gas filler next to the fridge vents



I'm amazed at people at gas stations, whether a mistake like this or smoking...the last person smoking across from me at a pump says it's ok I'm pumping diesel...everybody else was pumping gas.
I moved.

as above, some add wind shields there are posts on this forum with discussion and pics


among my fridge strategies if when on propane or shore power I freeze blue freezer paks and move them to the fridge door when on 12 volt.

we use 12 volt when driving, it uses minimal energy and is safe

we also have added fans inside the fridge ( on most of the time) and on the fins, not needed when driving.

I have one of those cheap dual display thermometers and have the remote in the fridge, so we can judge the internal temps without opening the door. and like my Dad always yelled about, we consider what is needed before opening the door and letting the cold air out ( thanks Dad).
The thermometer shows an amazng often 30º differential between top door shelf and bottom, that is why the fan is important. I wired a 12 volt, but you can buy a 2 D cell fan on amazon

Mike
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Old 02-27-2017, 06:30 PM   #5
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.

I agree. Safety first.

Plus, why burn LP while driving when you can use 12v.
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Old 02-27-2017, 11:22 PM   #6
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That pix has been in my head since I first seen it back then....we are out for enjoyment not potential disaster; oh yeah, I thought of it early on, but having to turn off at gas stations (I could forget) and RT saying don't run with it on, both of mine have been 3-way, have only run the 12v underway.
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Old 02-28-2017, 11:00 PM   #7
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http://http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8/refrigerator-baffle-3630.html
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Old 03-01-2017, 01:57 PM   #8
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We use the fridge as designed. A/C when plugged in, D/C while driving, and GAS when boondocking. Works well.
Its just another mental note, everytime you move:

Everything outside unplugged?
All gear loaded up and stowed?
Toilet seat down?
Cabinets Locked?
Pump off?
Awning in?
Fridge switched?
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:06 PM   #9
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I find when I drive with my fridge on 12volt it barely keeps the temperature where it was. Is this normal? I know it is drawing from my batteries because I once left the thing on while away from the coach for a couple of hours and when I checked my house batteries they were in need of charging.
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:20 PM   #10
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I find when I drive with my fridge on 12volt it barely keeps the temperature where it was. Is this normal? I know it is drawing from my batteries because I once left the thing on while away from the coach for a couple of hours and when I checked my house batteries they were in need of charging.
read my post #4


the manual is available online and you can check the heating element is working, add fans, check door seals etc insulation of the box
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:12 PM   #11
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I find when I drive with my fridge on 12volt it barely keeps the temperature where it was. Is this normal? I know it is drawing from my batteries because I once left the thing on while away from the coach for a couple of hours and when I checked my house batteries they were in need of charging.
This is typical for 3 way absorption refrigerators. On shore power, the boiler draws around 350 watts but in the DC mode it's around 250 watts, close to 20 amps at 12 volts which accounts for the battery discharge you observed. The DC mode is barely able to hold refrigerator temperature. Some systems won't even permit 12 VDC operation if the ignition is off but yours apparently will..The most efficient way of running the fridge underway or at rest is on propane. There are differing opinions regarding the use of propane while underway. Some regard it as unsafe, but I ran propane underway for years without incident and shut it down only when fueling.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:26 PM   #12
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There are differing opinions regarding the use of propane while underway. Some regard it as unsafe, but I ran propane underway for years without incident and shut it down only when fueling.
I have read that some experience the flame going out when travelling with the propane going. What I wonder is does the propane keep flowing? Or does it stop when the flame goes out?
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:02 PM   #13
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I have read that some experience the flame going out when travelling with the propane going. What I wonder is does the propane keep flowing? Or does it stop when the flame goes out?
FWIW: Back when I had a propane fridge, I never had an issue with flame-out while driving. I imagine a poorly-designed venting system might cause that.

The fuel does NOT keep flowing. There is a flame sensor. That's why you have to hold the extra button in when you light it--to override the sensor.
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