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Old 01-12-2013, 02:26 PM   #11
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Thanks Ron.

There's some info here that might help:
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/vie...hp?f=14&t=9042

and this topic has a post of interest: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/vie...hp?f=13&t=4353
partially copied here:
Quote:
My SurePower 1315 quit working early on. Actually, it still worked, but no power went to the house batteries. At least in my case it was the terminals that connect to the batteries that had high resistance, not the contacts inside the SurePower.

I cleaned the terminals carefully with a stainless steel brush, coated everythng with grease (block air and prevent corrosion) and no problems for the last 4 years, 60K miles.
So it seems the solenoid is sticking open or opening and closing often. Probably the latter. Cleaning all related contacts might solve it. Yours is the chassis battery and his was the house battery but the 1315-200 is bi-directional so the problem may affect either side.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:54 PM   #12
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Sure Power responded promptly to my request for info / help

Quote:
If it is clicking that is a good sign of several things to check for :

(1) Bad ground connection to the ground terminal.
(2) If there is a circuit breaker installed it could be tripping.
(3) Bad or too small cable and wiring sizing. Or bad connections to any part of the terminal and wiring.
(4) If a second aux. charging source is being used such as a battery charger may not be high enough voltage to keep it engaged or if the charging source being used on the main side such as the alternator may not be reaching the 13.2 volts in order for the Separator to kick in to parallel the second battery. The battery separator must see 13.2 volts in order for it to kick in. The Separator is totally dependent on the charge source and is only good as it outs out.
(5) Or shorted cell or bad battery.
#1 - A bad ground connection can be the cause of many RV problems. That is what I would check first Ron.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:02 AM   #13
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Will take it this week to have the battery checked out.

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Old 01-15-2013, 01:12 AM   #14
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Are there any other courtesy lights anywhere in the vehicle, besides the under hood light? I have one underneath the bed at the rear of the van inside the left swing door. It operates by the opening and closing of the van doors, but can also be left on with a selector switch, such that it doesn't shut off when all the van's doors are closed.
The separator could still be bad, even though it isn't on the recall list, and be allowing the coach electrical system to draw power from the chassis battery, which shouldn't happen. That was my issue.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:22 AM   #15
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Default Re: Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Mike,

How can I tell if the separator could be bad?

I have checked for any lights that could be on, found none, what I did find when I went to start the vehicle the AM/FM radio was on, volume was down, the front of the radio read ON. My question when I would shut off the ignition of the vehicle, wouldn't the radio automatically go off?

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Old 01-15-2013, 02:00 AM   #16
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Default Re: Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Mike,

How can I tell if the separator could be bad?
I expect the manufacturer probably has a trouble shooting/testing procedure that can be done with a multimeter. My isolator manufacturer (HDPSI) had a downloadable trouble shooting procedure available on their website. I downloaded a copy and followed the procedure with a multimeter and it showed that a directional diode was bad. It was allowing 2 way current flow, which was allowing the coach systems to slowly draw down my chassis battery over a few days. Perhaps contact Sure Power, and ask them if the separator can be tested with a multi-meter to verify it is functioning as designed? Or perhaps your Roadtrek or local RV shop can test it for you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
I have checked for any lights that could be on, found none, what I did find when I went to start the vehicle the AM/FM radio was on, volume was down, the front of the radio read ON. My question when I would shut off the ignition of the vehicle, wouldn't the radio automatically go off?

Ron
My first thought is "yes". GM could tell you for certain, but I can't think of many modern vehicles that don't shut off the radio when the ignition is off, and the key removed. However, some vehicles have a delayed radio shut off, that doesn't shut off until a door is opened. I guess GM/Ford/Chrysler/etc. figure you want to continue listening, until you actually exit the vehicle. If your van has this delayed radio shut off feature, perhaps it's not shutting off your radio, after you exit the vehicle?
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:53 PM   #17
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Having problems with my battery going dead every 3 days, almost 2 weeks, feeling something is draining the battery or there is a short, went on-line, found and did as instructed below.

Disconnected the NEGATIVE Cable Terminal Bolt, clipped on the test light clip to the Terminal Bolt, put the Test Point on the ground, being the ground cable on the chassis the circuit light did not come on.

I have no idea if this is the correct procedure to locate a SHORT.

Photo 5: the round disk on the Negative Cable appears to be discolored, no idea if it should be.

Photo's Down Below (Photobucket)

Article on-line:

Fords and Chrysler do this more often;

Hook up battery, remove the NEGATIVE terminal and clip on a test light to the terminal and the other part to ground, with the drivers door closed , ignition off, see if the tester light goes on, if it does, there is definitely a short, leave the light set up connected so the light stays on, get help for someone else to watch this light as you;...remove each individual fuse from the fuse box one by one watching the light to go out, doing this your are disconnecting each electric component one at the time to isolate the bad one.

This is what an electric auto place does, if none of the fuses pulled out turns off the light, it is something else.

Disconnect the power going to the alternator unplug the plugs and look for a looped wire with a 3/8ths nut also to remove, check the light, still on? we just checked the alternator, sometimes an alternator can be working but broken in a way to draw 12 volts from the battery this is all you can do.

Photo's of Negative wire/ground

01: Circuit Tester: Clip Clipped on Negative Cable Terminal Bolt, Tester Point on Ground Bolt Cable on Chassis. As seen no LIGHT is on from the Circuit Tester.
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... issue7.jpg

02: Ground Cable to Vehicle Chassis:
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... issue5.jpg

03: Ground Cable to Vehicle Chassis:
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... issue2.jpg

04: Battery Negative Point/Cable/Bolt:
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... issue4.jpg

05: Negative Cable to Battery:
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab35 ... issue1.jpg

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:23 PM   #18
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Does your Chevy have an under-the-hood light that comes on when the hood is raised?
Have you tested the test light?
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:32 PM   #19
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Default Re: Re: Chassis Battery Problem

Yes it does, but it is and has been disconnected when my problem started.

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:45 PM   #20
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Default Re: Chassis Battery Problem

It is not that easy to do the test. I know in theory it is easy but I've read that the computer in modern vehicles draw a fair bit of current when they start up again after the battery has been disconnected. A better way is to make the test connection before disconnecting the negative cable. 3 or 4 hands might be needed unless you have alligator type clips or similar.

I am not familiar with test lights for checking parasitic draws so I'm hoping someone else will jump in here. I'd use ammeter for this type of testing. A clamp on ammeter lets you measure without breaking the connection: http://www.classbforum.com/phpBB2/vi...hp?f=29&t=1038
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