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Old 01-28-2018, 01:44 PM   #1
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Default Shore Power 30 amp & 20 amp or Dog Bone?

Anyone have both 30 amp and 20 amp external shore power outlets on their camper van? Should I just use a dog bone or since the cargo van is not finished yet, install both on the van?
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Old 01-28-2018, 02:54 PM   #2
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Found my answer...hope it helps others.
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:12 PM   #3
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I am not sure what is the point of adding 20A shore connection. Video shows house wiring methodology, solid copper wires are not the best option in marine or RV world, vibration can kill it. Safety wise a well installed, factory 30A shore power wiring would be my choice for winter heating.
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:44 PM   #4
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I want to be able to hook up at homes (including my own) that don't have an outdoor 30A outlet. The dog bone is one way to go, but seeing that I can use both the 30A and 20A at certain camp grounds...this seems even a better option for a van conversion I am planning to build.
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Old 01-28-2018, 05:52 PM   #5
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I am glad this is going to work for you, I still think that one well designed and built shore connection is a better choice for storage and safety.
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:31 PM   #6
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i like that idea for an isolated separately powered outlet for big draw stuff, though we get along fine with the 30 amp.

I don't like the idea of using metal staples to hold it in place. There are code approved plastic staples for this purpose available dirt cheap at any hardware store and probably at Wally World.
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:34 PM   #7
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I think nearly all of us have the normal 30 amp connector and cord setup.

Many (most?) of us also carry a 30 to 20 amp adapter so we can plug into a 20 amp outlet if needed.

For those that travel in Canada and some places in the US, being able to go to a 20 amp plug is also a good way to handle it when the power posts are a long ways from the campsites, as they are quite a bit of the time in those areas. We carry two 25' and one 50' 12ga extension cords, so we can put them on the end of our 10ga 30 amp cord to reach the far away outlet, and we have needed them all sometimes. You can still use everything except the micro and AC at the same time from a 20 amp source. It would take nearly all our load capacity and storage to haul 100' of 10ga 30 amp cord.

I don't see how anyone in a small van would ever need to use 30 amp and 20 amp connections at the same time, and it might actually be dangerous to even do some places. If the two plugs are on separate poles of the 220v feed line, you could have a massive issue as you would create a 220v dead short if you didn't have two totally separate 110v systems in the van.
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Old 01-28-2018, 07:15 PM   #8
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"Many (most?) of us also carry a 30 to 20 amp adapter so we can plug into a 20 amp outlet if needed."


no, no booster. You have it backwards.

After removing the 30 amp male plug from the end of my 05/04 190P. Hey, it was not my fault the garage door was shut when I drove off. Anyway, I thought about it and replaced it with a 20 amp that plugs right back into my garage. Then most of the time I use the opposite adapter and plug it into my portable 30 amp surge protector, i seldom plug into 20 amps elsewhere.

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Old 01-28-2018, 07:58 PM   #9
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For my van I selected a SmartPlug shore connector in 2013, then the Company was just getting into the marine and barely to RV markets, love it, easy aim and straight insertion.
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Old 01-28-2018, 08:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeRa View Post
For my van I selected a SmartPlug shore connector in 2013, then the Company was just getting into the marine and barely to RV markets, love it, easy aim and straight insertion.
But wait George, booster and I are always plugged into our b's.

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Old 02-02-2018, 05:33 PM   #11
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I like the idea of having the van's main circuits on 30A. However, I do like the idea of having a secondary 20A circuit whose sole purpose in life is to provide additional juice. For example, if I have FHU, the 30A circuit is handling the microwave, and the 20A would be useful for a plug in electric heater, or something separate, like a dehumidifier or similar.

Advanced RV uses the SmartPlug cords with their vans, so they have to be significantly better in design for this to be done.
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlts22 View Post
Advanced RV uses the SmartPlug cords with their vans, so they have to be significantly better in design for this to be done.
...or at least significantly more expensive.
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:57 AM   #13
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...or at least significantly more expensive.
Smart Plug started in the boating world where shore plugs are known fire issue. RV world is less harsh, so plug reliability is not as critical but, ease of insertion is, at least for me. I have my SmartPlug mounted low and donít need to bent on my knees to see if angle of rotation is correct for insertion, for this easy insertion spending a few bucks more was well justified.
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Old 02-03-2018, 01:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Smart Plug started in the boating world where shore plugs are known fire issue. RV world is less harsh, so plug reliability is not as critical but, ease of insertion is, at least for me. I have my SmartPlug mounted low and donít need to bent on my knees to see if angle of rotation is correct for insertion, for this easy insertion spending a few bucks more was well justified.
I agree. My post was just a good-natured jab at ARV's tendency to seek out the most expensive way to do everything. Expense is highly correlated with quality, but the correlation is not always perfect.
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Old 02-07-2018, 03:47 PM   #15
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I too have every sex change and plug changer ever invented. I use a 10AWG 50 foot with standard household (20A) fittings at each end and I can adapt the 30A RV plug to the extension and use a 30 A F to 20 A M to plug into a 30 amp pedestal if necessary. The big downside to this is the fact that household plugs are rated for only 20 amps are being tasked to be in a 30 amp circuit and so be overloaded even though the #10AWG cable is OK carrying 30 amps. They get hot and ultimately fail undoing so. Versatility is great but you have to watch that you are not overloading the weakest link in the chain.
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