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Old 06-16-2019, 09:51 PM   #11
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Joe,
Since you've worked on your Tambour door, I wonder if you might have a suggestion for me. I have a 98 190P. The door is in fine shape and worked fine until after I had the air conditioner replaced. The mechanic that replaced the air conditioner wasn't sure how to do it at first, and I know they took apart the storage cabinets on either side of the air conditioner to some extent. My problem now is that the door still raises but not all the way. It stops about 1 1/2 inches above the top shelf so you can see the shelf but can't access it. It just feels like there's something blocking it from going the rest of the way up. I've been wondering if the back of the cabinet might be slightly out of place so that it's more narrow, and that's what is stopping the door from raising the rest of the way. The cabinet and the fabric on the wall all look okay. I haven't tried taking the cabinet apart yet. Do you think this sounds like a possibility or do you think it's something else? Thanks for any help you can provide!

Pam
If you have something on the top shelf and it is pushed too far to the back, the sliding door will hit the object and stop. I have my manuals there and I often have to move them forward to fully lower the door.
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Old 06-16-2019, 11:51 PM   #12
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Hi Pam, check the rear of the cabinet, you can easily see the tambour door as it recedes in the rear of the cabinet, you can follow it all the way down till it gets stuck, Iím hoping there is just something blocking the path of the door, if not , the mechanic possibly reassembled the door in a way that jams up the rear of the cabinet, either too tight or blocking the path of the door, hope this helps,,,
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:04 PM   #13
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Default Roll top door replacement

When I bought my 2000 RT 190 I did not realize the TV shelf needed to be latched, it crashed out, but only really damaged the rolltop slightly, but as we have no need for the TV, sliding shelf, etc I decided to replace the door with a hinged one, made the lower shelf fixed, but did the shelf in a way which allowed the sliding kitchen work shelf below to continue to slide out.
Here is a link to photos of my refit which included adding good fixed shelves next to the toilet, a door on the rolltop and a cabinet behind the driver

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmEjKTqQ
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:41 PM   #14
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Hi Pam, check the rear of the cabinet, you can easily see the tambour door as it recedes in the rear of the cabinet, you can follow it all the way down till it gets stuck, Iím hoping there is just something blocking the path of the door, if not , the mechanic possibly reassembled the door in a way that jams up the rear of the cabinet, either too tight or blocking the path of the door, hope this helps,,,
Unfortunately, the door is only about an inch or so above the top shelf, and I have a Rubbermaid container on the shelf, so it's difficult to see much inside the cabinet. I originally assumed the door was catching on something on the shelf, but when I looked in with a flashlight, I had the impression that the door is going up into something (a ceiling to the cabinet?). So, I should just be seeing the door and it doesn't go into anything at the top of the cabinet?

If I removed the door by taking the piece off of the bottom, is it difficult to get the door back in? Does it connect to something? Maybe it would be easier for me to remove the door and take the stuff off of the top shelf and see if that is the problem? Thanks!

Pam
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:15 PM   #15
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Unfortunately, the door is only about an inch or so above the top shelf, and I have a Rubbermaid container on the shelf, so it's difficult to see much inside the cabinet. I originally assumed the door was catching on something on the shelf, but when I looked in with a flashlight, I had the impression that the door is going up into something (a ceiling to the cabinet?). So, I should just be seeing the door and it doesn't go into anything at the top of the cabinet?

If I removed the door by taking the piece off of the bottom, is it difficult to get the door back in? Does it connect to something? Maybe it would be easier for me to remove the door and take the stuff off of the top shelf and see if that is the problem? Thanks!

Pam
Or use an Endoscope to See, inexpensive.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:38 PM   #16
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Or use an Endoscope to See, inexpensive.
Think I can talk my doctor's office into bringing their scope out to the RT? LOL!
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:57 PM   #17
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Think I can talk my doctor's office into bringing their scope out to the RT? LOL!
Hey Pam, with your Endoscope you won't need any doctor's office. And you'll be able to see in that top portion of the cabinets, inexpensive too.

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Old 06-18-2019, 04:27 PM   #18
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In my 2000 Roadtrek 200P, after pulling out the cabinet yesterday, I had to disconnect the AC plug, DC plug, Antennae connections and the thermostat.
I had 7 screws on the right (inside the overhead bin)
9 screws on the left side (all in cabinet, none in shower)
and the two button covered trim screws below have to be removed
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:38 PM   #19
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Hey Pam, with your Endoscope you won't need any doctor's office. And you'll be able to see in that top portion of the cabinets, inexpensive too.

Bud
Well, I didn't know you could buy endoscopes so easily. I just checked on Amazon. Can get some around $20-$35 to use with a smart phone or tablet. I'd have to buy a smart phone, so that would increase the price a bit. Or for $67 or higher, I could get one that comes with its own camera. Seems a lot to spend for just a one time use. Maybe I'll see if I can just stick my camera inside and take a photo.

Pam
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:45 PM   #20
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Or use an Endoscope to See, inexpensive.
the door is in a slotted track which goes up and along the top of the inside of the cabinet and then down the back part way ( as far as it needs to fully open)
to remove the rolltop door remove the shelves on the bottom and you will see that the track gos all the way down. Part of my motivation replacing the door was to gain about 3/4 inch of depth and also if was damaged.
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