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Old 12-03-2013, 02:55 PM   #21
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

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Originally Posted by gordonhks
I have always wanted a ladder on the back door. I would have no reason to use it, but they sure do look cool
Here ya' go. It's yours for $169.

http://www.eurocampers.com/2007--2014-S ... p_221.html
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:08 PM   #22
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

Interesting site, especially with the Dodge stuff in already. Here in TX, the airvent window inserts would be useful.

For Sprinters, I like the rear continental tire mount that actually mounts on the door itself, not on a hinged insert welded to the tow hitch. However, I don't know how "Mercedes Authorized" that is, or how well that will hold, especially on a 3500 model.
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #23
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

@Davydd, How do you mount the darn things? I could not bring myself to put holes in the sheet metal...
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:25 AM   #24
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

I have no idea. I would assume it would be a bolt through attachment. It looks like the top is a hook over the top lip design to give it added support rather than hanging off bolts.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:39 PM   #25
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

I wonder if one would have to take off the inside panel, perhaps attach a plate to the inside. That way, the reinforced metal plate, not the thin metal skin, would handle the weight of the ladder, the weight that the top lip doesn't support.

Then, there is the issue of added weight to the door and hinges. I like the idea, but with how paper-thin the sheet metal is on most vehicles, I'd rather see someone else run with a setup like that in frequent use for 100,000 miles before I tried.
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:29 AM   #26
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

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Originally Posted by mlts22
I wonder if one would have to take off the inside panel, perhaps attach a plate to the inside. That way, the reinforced metal plate, not the thin metal skin, would handle the weight of the ladder, the weight that the top lip doesn't support...
Just an FYI on the above idea...this is exactly how our FIAMA F45 10' awning is attached to our fiberglass roof. At three attachment points on the FIAMA there is a 5" x 7" x 3/4" marine ply backing plate that is epoxied to the inside of the fiberglass roof. Then the insulation/hull liner is attached and hides the plates/mounting.

I've seen DIY builders on the sportsmobile and expeditionportal forums do similar attachments for ladders, folding cook shelves and similar.

Cheers,
Thom
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:44 PM   #27
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

Thom you probably noticed Markopolo's post about a teardrop trailer and later the Scamp. How about showing off your trailer a little? Maybe in it's own thread.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:30 PM   #28
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

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Thom you probably noticed Markopolo's post about a teardrop trailer and later the Scamp. How about showing off your trailer a little? Maybe in it's own thread.
Hi Stan (& All),
THX for the comment. I will go ahead and make mention of it in the thread that Mark opened up about my AWD Van Build.
Cheers,
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:58 AM   #29
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

I have 8 blank switch spots on the dash of my Sprinter (RT Agile). I've been trying to figure out what switches I'm going to install in those spots. The one I have already decided is to switch the in-dash stereo system between the Sprinter battery and the coach batteries, so I can use it without a key in the ignition. The in-dash unit has a remote control and can play mp3 DVDs, USB sticks, and movie DVDs. The functionality is duplicated by the Sony system in the rear, but I can foresee times when I am up front with a laptop and would like the sound.

Ideas for the other switch blanks?
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:59 PM   #30
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Default Re: Future Projects & Brainstorming Ideas

I'd consider using one of the switch blanks as a momentary switch for an ammeter. That way, the house battery's current isn't running through the ammeter's shunt, but when it is needed, one can get the value of amps/watts used.
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