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Old 07-27-2017, 09:10 PM   #21
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I took the Roadtrek to Westfest in Steamboat Springs (MC Rally) this weekend and learned how to get around in it.

Here are a few pics on my way home, my KLX450R on the back-



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Old 07-27-2017, 09:11 PM   #22
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I installed a Derale Fluid Thermostat to help control the transmission fluid temp. The thermostat will bypass the transmission cooler until the fluid reaches 180F at which point it will fully open allowing maximum cooling.

This allows for a faster warmup and more stable temps. After installation the temps were much more consistent, varying between 175F & 185F.

Before -



And after -

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Old 07-27-2017, 09:13 PM   #23
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Stability update-

It was the tires. Discount Tire swapped the tires front to rear and the high speed wandering disappeared. Both front tires replaced and now it tracks straight ahead, no wandering.

On order is a Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer to further calm things down at speed.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:20 PM   #24
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You've done a great job getting that coach into a healthy conditions. Congratulations!

I'm familiar with the transfer relay issue. Everybody knows what a transfer relay is but surprisingly few folks know that it's a DC device, not an AC device. The generator AC supplies 120VAC to the transfer switch control PCB which rectifies it to 120VDC because the relay winding is a DC winding. They do it that way because employing an AC winding invariably produces an audible and annoying hum. That module also incorporates a delay function that permits the generator to come up to speed and stabilize before the transfer relay energizes.

It's unfortunate that lots of these switches and box are replaced when replacing a one dollar rectifier or a capacitor on the control module would restore the module to its normal operation. If you have a friend that is electrically savvy, that board can be fixed providing you with a functional spare relay.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:23 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruising7388 View Post
You've done a great job getting that coach into a healthy conditions. Congratulations!

I'm familiar with the transfer relay issue. Everybody knows what a transfer relay is but surprisingly few folks know that it's a DC device, not an AC device. The generator AC supplies 120VAC to the transfer switch control PCB which rectifies it to 120VDC because the relay winding is a DC winding. They do it that way because employing an AC winding invariably produces an audible and annoying hum. That module also incorporates a delay function that permits the generator to come up to speed and stabilize before the transfer relay energizes.

It's unfortunate that lots of these switches and box are replaced when replacing a one dollar rectifier or a capacitor on the control module would restore the module to its normal operation. If you have a friend that is electrically savvy, that board can be fixed providing you with a functional spare relay.
If I knew which component had failed that might be an option, but there's nothing burned up on that board/no apparent failure. I could send it in for diagnosis & repair but that's probably not economically feasable.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:25 PM   #26
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Did you have to use a hitch tongue extender to clear the spare?
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:27 PM   #27
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Did you have to use a hitch tongue extender to clear the spare?
Yeah, a very beefy one.

Future project is adding a 2nd receiver to the Class IV hitch to eliminate sway, spread the load and strengthen the MC carrier.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:30 PM   #28
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If I knew which component had failed that might be an option, but there's nothing burned up on that board/no apparent failure. I could send it in for diagnosis & repair but that's probably not economically feasable.
Agree, it wouldn't be cost effective to have a commercial shop do that. I was thinking more like a local ham radio operator.

Something I forgot to mention regarding these puppies. When going from shore side to generator support or visa versa, first shed the loads which will substantially lengthen the life of the relay contacts.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:41 PM   #29
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Yeah, a very beefy one.

Future project is adding a 2nd receiver to the Class IV hitch to eliminate sway, spread the load and strengthen the MC carrier.
LOL! Faced with that same issue, rather than messing with welding or bolting additional support, we dealt with it by stuffing the spare under the bed and using the spare tire hitch as the second receiver for the carrier.
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Old 07-27-2017, 09:47 PM   #30
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LOL! Faced with that same issue, rather than messing with welding or bolting additional support, we dealt with it by stuffing the spare under the bed and using the spare tire hitch as the second receiver for the carrier.
That's not going to happen.

Welding mods are cheap & easy enough right in my driveway. I need the storage space. I had a dual receiver hitch setup on a Jamboree I used to own and it was (still is) strong enough for most any bike I dared to put on it-



KLX 450R, about 280 lbs-



1982 Honda CT110, my go-to light weight camping bike-

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