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Old 01-24-2015, 11:45 PM   #11
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Default Re: Roadtrek 190P dual dump setup

Here is what the finished setup looks like with the new splash shield removed. All the wiring, hoses, and cables have been located and secured.



I also used the rear part of the Roadtrek splash shield and made and add on to cover the rest of the needed area. Here is the splash shield off the van.



The smaller part is the modified original splash shield





Totally together with the splash shield on





From the drivers side



All in all it was a bit of work, but not near as difficult as I thought it would be. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out things that weren't issues, because I expected it to be a lot worse of a job. I don't know why they don't supply a system like this as an option as it would not be very difficult or expensive to do on a new unit.

I have about $350 in the system and that includes 3 new valves and a new pump, so not really bad. If you had it on a hoist and had all the parts, it could be done in a day or two, tops. On the ground it takes at least double that.

I think we will find this well worth the effort, just for the piece of mind, even if the pump never fails. It will also make flushing tanks and the pump much easier, as we can put the water in through the slinky to fill the tanks or flush the pump.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg done no splash shield.jpg (48.1 KB, 611 views)
File Type: jpg done splash shield off 1.jpg (37.8 KB, 606 views)
File Type: jpg done splash shield off 2.jpg (38.7 KB, 603 views)
File Type: jpg done splash shield off 3.jpg (38.0 KB, 603 views)
File Type: jpg done splash shield 1.jpg (47.8 KB, 609 views)
File Type: jpg done splash shield 2.jpg (43.1 KB, 610 views)
File Type: jpg done from dump end.jpg (54.5 KB, 614 views)
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Old 01-24-2015, 11:48 PM   #12
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Default Re: Roadtrek 190P dual dump setup

Just noticed the exhaust pipe showing in the last pic, couldn't see that when laying on the ground. May have to add another small heat shield to cover that area.
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Old 01-25-2015, 01:04 PM   #13
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Default Re: Roadtrek 190P dual dump setup

Looks all neat & properly done Hard to tell the depth difference of that one heat shield and the exhaust in the photo. Could be just fine as it is and you don't have to add to it.

That is a great mod.
1. no worries about a pump failure interrupting a trip
2. pump failure is less likely now that pump is optimally oriented
3. pump function is improved now that pump is optimally oriented
4. risk of water intrusion into pump much reduced
5. option to flush out the tanks including back flushing is added
6. extended showering time is an option if grey hose valve open and connected on campsite
7. barb removal means less chance of pump inlet blockage
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:00 PM   #14
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Default Re: Roadtrek 190P dual dump setup

Marko got it right on the pic being a bit deceptive. The pipe is further away than it first looks, and the heat shield are under the area stuff if protected. There still is a gap that isn't covered, but nothing is very close so it may be best to let the heat out of that area by leaving it open. I will crawl under when it is running and see, but not as urgent as first thought.

Was going to clean up the extremely messy shop today, but got distracted

Got the slinky tube all in place and strapped in well. It holds a 10' slinky with a 45* bayonet on one end. Attached to hitch frame and a strap around the propane tank.



I was going to leave the access hole in valve handle area open, but once the handles were on I decided to make a cover for it. .093 fiberglass with a couple of little clips that slide under the left side of the panel through the hole, and a thumbscrew on the right side.

Labelled the valves at the same time.



Hopefully, I will get motivated tomorrow and clean up the mess!
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File Type: jpg done slinky tube.jpg (45.1 KB, 161 views)
File Type: jpg done hole cover.jpg (48.8 KB, 166 views)
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:36 AM   #15
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Looks like you guys tied into the 4" pipe. In the Winnebago ERA 170 there is NO possibility of doing that with any degree of reasonability. I opted to just use a Tee into the 1-1/2 line. It will not drain the black water of "larger" solids but will drain liquid from both gray and black tanks. With water added to the black tank driving and sloshing with biodegrading tank treatment hopeful will break up any remaining large solids. I id design a adapter to allow a garden hose thread to screw into the 1-1/2 drain to back feeding clear lines.. Could be "old faithful" in the head if the toilet valve was opened
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPMcG View Post
Looks like you guys tied into the 4" pipe. In the Winnebago ERA 170 there is NO possibility of doing that with any degree of reasonability. I opted to just use a Tee into the 1-1/2 line. It will not drain the black water of "larger" solids but will drain liquid from both gray and black tanks. With water added to the black tank driving and sloshing with biodegrading tank treatment hopeful will break up any remaining large solids. I id design a adapter to allow a garden hose thread to screw into the 1-1/2 drain to back feeding clear lines.. Could be "old faithful" in the head if the toilet valve was opened

Yep, every system will likely be different with some harder and some easier.


We did not actually tap into the 4" pipe for the bypass, we tapped into it for the macerator, so a small line was fine to feed it.


In our Roadtrek the macerator had been places in the plumbing where the line to a slinky dump would have been, so right at the end of the 4" on the tee from the tanks and with a reducer. I removed the pump from that place and remounted it near the side of the 4" pipe fed through an added 2" pipe from the 4" one. There is an added gate valve where the pump used to be that feeds a big pipe to a slinky connection. Keeping the full size piping for the emergency dump was an important consideration so I could use off the shelf parts for most of it. While our setup does take care of the emergency dumping in a very easy and thorough way, it was a lot more work than the simpler pipe/cap drain into a bucket and add a fitting and hose type setup.
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:24 PM   #17
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Valterra makes this very fine fitting exactly for this purpose:





The part number is Valterra T1037.

This is a 4-way fitting:
1) A standard bayonet connection for a gravity-dump slinky
2) A 2" fitting intended to feed the macerator
3) A fitting for a black-tank slider valve
4) A fitting for a gray-tank slider valve

Here's what my setup looks like:

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...html#post27871
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Old 10-05-2018, 01:27 AM   #18
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Man oh man you are a talented fellow. I thought my "Sanitary Tee" in the macerator 1 1/2 suction side line was a tricky project.
Kids play for a guy like you. But you have inspired me maybe I'll add a guillotine slide valve and run a pipe to the side of the van to make it easier if I ever have to use it.
You can patch your welds with epoxy or JB Weld.
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