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Old 07-24-2017, 12:24 AM   #1
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Default Shock Absorber Installation

I installed new Monroes today on my 2000 RT Dodge 350. ( Rear only. I will do fronts next weekend since it is 100 degrees now in Dallas Texas.) Job took about 2 hours ( I am an amateur). I backed up the van on to a pair of ramps and worked on my back in my driveway. No jack needed. I only needed a 3/4" wrench AND a 3/4" socket on a breaker bar. I have not driven it yet... waiting until the job is complete. ...... did I mention it is HOT here?
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:45 PM   #2
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I did mine a little while ago- in PHX

get up early and a little trickle hose dampening the pavement will cool the air through evaporation if the dew point is low- or if you can arrange a mist of water into the air nearby.

my fronts of the chev were way easy- wheels left in place

I detail the bilsteins onto chev 3500 in a thread from a month or so ago

Mike
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Old 07-27-2017, 01:46 AM   #3
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I tried to install my front Monroe shocks today. Bah. I could not get the nut off the upper threaded shaft. The shaft spun no matter how I tried to hold it (double "d" shock socket, vice grips, etc.) Got a bit P.O.-d .....then I took the rig to a mechanic. He installed them for $75.

Wow. The 17 year Roadtrek rides nice now. No porpoising ! (I suspect it had the original shocks with 115,000 miles on them)

I am rewarding myself tonight with a cold Stella Artois.
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Old 07-29-2017, 03:09 PM   #4
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I need to replace my 2002 dodge 3500 coach house shocks too. do you have the part number or link so I can order them?
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:00 PM   #5
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I got mine at Rockauto.com

Monroe "increased handling/performance" category.

rear 911091 $34.79
front 911096 $36.79

Rears were easy to do. Just back up on ramps and get from uderneath. No need to remove wheels. There was a thick plastic protector flap attached to driver side frame in the way. But removing 3 screws gave me room to reach under it to reach shock bolt. Fronts were tough for me. I could not get the top nut off the threaded shaft.

good luck.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:12 PM   #6
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I got mine at Rockauto.com

Monroe "increased handling/performance" category.

rear 911091 $34.79
front 911096 $36.79

Rears were easy to do. Just back up on ramps and get from uderneath. No need to remove wheels. There was a thick plastic protector flap attached to driver side frame in the way. But removing 3 screws gave me room to reach under it to reach shock bolt. Fronts were tough for me. I could not get the top nut off the threaded shaft.

good luck.
If they are the type that have the shock rod itself through the bushings, the can be tough because they can spin in the shock. If I can't get them off because of stuck nuts, I usually just cut the shaft off with a 3" X .03" cut off wheel on a 90* air grinder, either just below the nut if I can get at it, or just under the bushing (bust off any plastic cover there). Sometimes, if you cut below the bushing it will be too long to get out the top, so you have to push it up and cut it again, but that is not normally the case
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:19 PM   #7
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Good advice booster.
The area available to work on my front shocks is very confined. No room to get a cutting wheel in there.

You are correct about the rod spinning in the shock. I was thinking about getting a nut splitter, but it would not fit in the area.
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Old 07-30-2017, 02:57 PM   #8
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I did mine a little while ago- in PHX

get up early and a little trickle hose dampening the pavement will cool the air through evaporation if the dew point is low- or if you can arrange a mist of water into the air nearby.
....
The overnight low in our Houston garage reached a brisk 87 degrees last night. Dew point remains north of 77 degrees. I know this because we cool the house to 77, and when I put on my glasses to take the dog out to pee at 10 p.m., they fog up.

We hear what Dallas is saying. We spent yesterday chopping metal and welding outdoors, at around 100 degrees. Only the love of a good Class B project can outweigh this sheer agony and insanity.
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Old 07-30-2017, 03:11 PM   #9
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Good advice booster.
The area available to work on my front shocks is very confined. No room to get a cutting wheel in there.

You are correct about the rod spinning in the shock. I was thinking about getting a nut splitter, but it would not fit in the area.
Not even for one of these with a small .030" thick wheel on it. Worst case I would think you could tilt and cut the nut. You could also put a stone on it so it would be the size of a ratchet. If not, it is really tight.

https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneum.../dp/B0002SRORM
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Old 07-30-2017, 07:26 PM   #10
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The thin wheel itself s not the problem. The space for the air grinder/handle is the problem.
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