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Old 08-31-2017, 10:01 PM   #1
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Default Suburban gas water heater removal question

I need to remove the Suburban gas water heater on my 1996 PleasureWay MPL. I can handle everything except---how do I remove the outer trim ring that the door hinges on ? It seems to have been glued or caulked to an excess to adhere it to the van. I removed the 3 long screws securing the ring to the heater--but can't get the trim ring to budge.
Anyone have experience in actually doing this ?
thanks
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Old 08-31-2017, 11:06 PM   #2
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Yours seems different than mine. Mine had like 11 large screws holding the outer ring/flange & door combo. I used that same flange / door when I replaced my water heater as the new Suburban heater didn't come with either.

You could try using a plastic putty knife to try to carefully break the caulk seal. That shouldn't mar the paint.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:01 AM   #3
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Thank you for the reply.
The amount of gasket and caulk led me to a different possibility.
It is possible the heater comes out on the inside ! It is completely accessible under the bench/bed framework. It does seem to have enough room.
Anyone else have ideas ?
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:04 AM   #4
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I had to take mine out from the inside because the hole cut in the van panel wasn't large enough to pull it through.
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:45 AM   #5
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My experience was like Marco's. The appliance came out into the inside of the RV. The door remained attached to the wall.
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:25 AM   #6
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Default removing Suburban water heater to the inside of the van

Well, it seems Marcopolo and eric were right on the money. I removed the anode rod and the pressure relief valve as well as the gas line and the reset wiring--then used a pry bar to wedge the tank back to the inside of the van. The retaining collars on the tank nipple for the anode and the pressure relief valve were pretty much the only thing holding the tank to the mounting plate.
You can see by the pictures---I think I found the source of my water leak !!
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Old 09-03-2017, 12:09 PM   #7
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It is interesting seeing your water heater. Mine was different, the replacement looked like this:


The flange on the van stayed in place and the replacement water heater tightly fit over the flange. I caulked the seam.

My door is described as radius corner and yours would be flush mount.

This doc - http://docs.renegaderv.com/Suburban/...2005-18-11.pdf - might help.
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Old 09-03-2017, 12:33 PM   #8
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Default difference in water heaters

My last picture may be misleading. The caulking is so strong, I removed the tank assembly and controls to allow access to the sheet metal/flange that I still need to remove. It should be easy to pound/pry it inward to separate it from the "outer flange". My heater does look like the one in your picture.
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Old 09-03-2017, 12:38 PM   #9
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Is the heater that you removed a "Model V"? I'm just curious in case I ever have to replace one like that.
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Old 09-03-2017, 12:44 PM   #10
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I looked for some kind of identification--but couldn't find any. Do you know where they might put an ID on the suburban models ?
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:06 PM   #11
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Just found this:

Quote:
The model and serial number information can be located by opening the water heater access door on the outside of your RV. The silver colored data plate with black printing is located on the right side of the metal control housing as you face it from the outside. The model number will be located on the top line of the data plate and will begin with "SW" or "V". The nine digit serial number will be on the bottom line.
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:43 PM   #12
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I'm a little embarrassed to say that's not quite what I was expecting, either.

But I'm glad you found your problem.
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Old 09-04-2017, 04:23 PM   #13
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Default Is my slip showing ?

After disregarding the fact that most water heaters come out to the outside of the van--and that no one would intentionally use all that silicone to fill a 3/4 inch gap around the outside trim--- I gave one more try at cutting the silicone around the outside trim. I used a painter's knife(it has a sharp end and stiff blade) which allowed using a hammer to work the knife around the trim and keep the handle curved away from the paint.
Once I worked around the trim--the outer trim came off relatively easy. 3 screws allowed removal of the water heater plate and now I can install a new one--the correct way.
While I may not always know what I am doing--I do provide comic relief !!
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