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Old 07-23-2022, 11:08 AM   #21
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Agree with your comments, but... it's not really an issue. I am certainly happy that @ >100F keeps it around 55F. While that may not be optimal for certain things, our perishables (say, milk) cycle through the fridge in a couple of days.

Also, I am not planning to go to these desert places in the middle of summer on a regular basis... this was an initial stress test both for the camper and us.

In cool weather it does not run very frequently. I don't think there is anything wrong with it. I did the dollar bill test and it seems like the door closes well.

Now... any Thor owners wanna throw out a guess on the beeping alarm thing?

55* would be a deal breaker for us, but to each their own opinion on that.


But, the 55* is an indicator of poor performance also. As soon as you get more than a few degrees off setpoint on the frig to the high side, it will be running 100% duty cycle and using way more power than it really should us. My guess it that your frig is set at the 3rd speed for the compressor like ours was and use about 3.8 running amps at that setting, although it may use more than that when hot. That would relate to over 90 amp hours per day if it did that for 24 hours, which would kill a 110ah battery in one day all by itself. The compressors also don't like to be run as hot as it would get under those conditions and running 24/7 without adequate cooling, so durability might be affected.


Where do you have the sensor placed in the frig? That can make a huge difference in readings. I am currently running tests on that with our Isotherm.
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Old 07-23-2022, 11:37 AM   #22
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We have seen many times on this forum where compressor frigs didn't work well in hot weather and were running to much in even cooler weather.
That sounds like a description of the old 3 system fridges. Few people have had difficulty with maintaining cold temps with the Norcold 12v fridge. Those of who had dealt with the old style fridges have been happy with the new system.

Over on a Roadtrek page, there have been a few people who have had issues with the Vitrifigo thermostat and wiring. Some found good help troubleshooting with Marine shops who have experience with them in boats.

Sounds like your Promaster issues could and should be repaired under your Promaster warranty. I did remember my one issue with both of mine. The weather stripping over the doors doesn't want to stay up. On my first one, it was the driver's side and on my new one it is the passenger side. Fixed with a bit of glue...
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Old 07-24-2022, 03:28 AM   #23
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So regarding the refrigerator, I am not an expert, obviously, but I don't think there is an issue with air flow (the area behind it is open) - it's just that when temps go up, the coils are not cooled as efficiently, which is simply a fact of physics.

I also don't think it's a leaky door or other insulation issue.

What I think is happening (and I could be totally wrong, just a theory) is that the refrigerator works by mostly cooling down the freezer compartment, and this in turn somehow cools the rest of the normal fridge. I also think the sensor of the fridge thermostat is in the freezer compartment.

What may be causing the issue is that there is not enough heat exchange between the freezer compartment and the regular fridge space. Ice build-up on the bottom of the freezer portion aggravates this, and as a result the freezer gets really cold, and the fridge not so much.

I like the fridge being around 40F, and the freezer around 20F. I noticed that the freezer became colder over time (10F, then 0, then sometimes hitting negatives), while the fridge stayed warmer. Setting the thermostat to a colder setting sure dropped the temps in the freezer.
Again, not an issue in regular temps (say below 95), but noticeable in the fiery hot areas.

Maybe, maybe, removing the drip tray may reduce the separation between the freezer and fridge compartments, and therefore improve things in scalding places. Or, I need to defrost it maybe once a week. All of this only applies when going to deserts in summer, not something I am planning to do all the time.
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Old 07-24-2022, 03:33 AM   #24
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Sounds like your Promaster issues could and should be repaired under your Promaster warranty. I did remember my one issue with both of mine. The weather stripping over the doors doesn't want to stay up. On my first one, it was the driver's side and on my new one it is the passenger side. Fixed with a bit of glue...
Yeah... I screwed the bottom flap back on, not a big deal. I tend to do simple things like this with duck tape, zip ties, superglue... rather than dealing with dealers etc.

A bit more disconcerting is a red brake maintenance warning I am getting when going down long declines, using brakes or not... I understand it is due to the brake fluid reservoir sensor being a bit finicky. Just something to ignore I guess, don't feel like dealing with warranty service until it is something more serious.
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Old 07-24-2022, 09:23 AM   #25
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So regarding the refrigerator, I am not an expert, obviously, but I don't think there is an issue with air flow (the area behind it is open) - it's just that when temps go up, the coils are not cooled as efficiently, which is simply a fact of physics.

I also don't think it's a leaky door or other insulation issue.

What I think is happening (and I could be totally wrong, just a theory) is that the refrigerator works by mostly cooling down the freezer compartment, and this in turn somehow cools the rest of the normal fridge. I also think the sensor of the fridge thermostat is in the freezer compartment.

What may be causing the issue is that there is not enough heat exchange between the freezer compartment and the regular fridge space. Ice build-up on the bottom of the freezer portion aggravates this, and as a result the freezer gets really cold, and the fridge not so much.

I like the fridge being around 40F, and the freezer around 20F. I noticed that the freezer became colder over time (10F, then 0, then sometimes hitting negatives), while the fridge stayed warmer. Setting the thermostat to a colder setting sure dropped the temps in the freezer.
Again, not an issue in regular temps (say below 95), but noticeable in the fiery hot areas.

Maybe, maybe, removing the drip tray may reduce the separation between the freezer and fridge compartments, and therefore improve things in scalding places. Or, I need to defrost it maybe once a week. All of this only applies when going to deserts in summer, not something I am planning to do all the time.

You are describing exactly what I am testing right now on our Isotherm. Our old Isotherm used less energy and did a much better job in high heat of over 100*f. The new frig came with a very tight fitting freezer door compared to the older one and also had a shroud around the freezer box. Freezer temps in the new frig were much colder, but frig temps got higher.


Once the evaporator gets near zero degrees F, the unit design starts getting much less efficient and eventually will lose ability to keep up and you may have hit that point.


Taking out the drip tray will help, we tested that in our original setup of the new frig and the data is on on this forum. Opening up the freezer door a 3/4" will also help even more. Making sure the food isn't blocking the cold air coming off the freezer from getting to bottom of the frig is a really big deal.



We know from our old frig that these units can easily handle 100* even on the lowest compressor speed (ours are both setup to be able to set compressor speed) if they are working right. The includes both the evaporator and condenser getting adequate heat transfer.


My current testing is setup with the drip tray out and the shroud around the freezer box removed. I also added air channels to let the cold air get to the bottom without being blocked by the food. The freezer temp sensor was moved from inside the freezer box to on top of the freezer box.



One test consisted of putting towels on the shelves to block them completely to airflow down, which is a worst case possible of food blockage.



I am very near being finished with the weeks long testing so results aren't yet totally put together with the energy use included yet, but the temp control is getting pretty obvious.


The previous setup testing of the new frig showed that getting the freezer temp up from stock 6* to 25* and slowing down the compressor speed got the energy use way, way down. Airflow in the frig from food blocking wasn't tested them and the unit was not in very hot conditions.


Since you saw the freezer getting colder and frig hotter, you probably have all of the issues going on at the same time and being complicated by the hot weather. Not enough cold air getting off the freezer box/evaporator, blocked airflow by food in the box, not enough cooling of the condenser and compressor.



The testing appears to be showing that all of these can be addressed relatively easily, with the condenser cooling maybe or maybe not being the most difficult. From what it looks like right now with our frig is that temps even in the high 80s are enough to mess up the freezer to frig temps from cold air not getting to the box well. The frig keeps up fine but energy use goes way up, probably over 50% of what it should be. We haven't been in hotter than that by much with the new frig so can't speak to that. The old one had no issues with hot weather.


Right now, my guess is that ours will be used with the shrouds off the freezer box (they also make the frost block the airflow because frost blocks the air slots requiring defrosting about once a week sometimes). The air channels will stay in place even though that did not totally fix the box airflow blocking issues. Freezer door will be made to be able to prop open up to about 1" and adjustable from tightly closed to that 1" and will be used to maintain balance between freezer and frig temps. We will be loading the frig with vertical airflow in mind so as to block less air from getting to bottom of the frig, although having the freezer door open is the best at getting air to the bottom because of all the open area in the door. Our cooling of the condenser is fine and is an exact copy of what it took to get the original Isotherm to cool well.


If your freezer is put together like ours, the shrouds are a 10 minute job to remove with two screws and 8 push pin rivets. Tray out is easy. Propping the door open with a paper towel works fine to try out. Open the cabinet door to the space behind the frig if there is on and try sucking out air with a small fan. You had the van on air conditioning so that area should be able to cooled down. Add some insulation to the outside wall of that area if possible. Don't block the airflow with food. It appears that with everything working right but the airflow blocked by towels I can get ours to to have a 17* freezer, 37* bottom of frig, 34* degree middle shelf, and 31* top shelf spread, so we will load the food that needs coldest higher and stuff that is OK warmer, lower. This was in 80* ambient, no sun, inside my shop building. The difference top to bottom should get to be less with the food not 100% blocking airflow like the towels do.



These units are rated to work in 100* temps, and the older ones did if they had good condenser cooling, but the new freezer box has messed them up a bit. It may or may not be worth it to you to address all the issues based on how much power you use and how much time you spend on batteries. I expect we will be using similar to the old frig which would vary from about 20ah per day to about 45ah per day based on temperature of ambient. Even if the frig is able to keep up and maintain under 40* frig temps, you may be using double that at 80+ degrees but it would have to measured to tell for certain. Once you start using 75+ah per day in a frig you start to need a lot of battery capacity unless you drive and are plugged in or on generator a lot if you want to not have to plug in for more than a day or two.


Good observation on the freezer getting colder as the frig got hotter as that is the prime way to tell the frig is running more than it should and/or running out of capacity.
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Old 07-25-2022, 01:16 AM   #26
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Thank you for your comprehensive and thoughtful reply! Your recommendations are spot on, I will try all of them in the future.

Taking out the drip tray is the simplest mod, easy to do, just need to remember to catch the water when the fridge is defrosting after a longer period of use.

Similarly easy will be to prop the freezer door open. Of course, need to watch the freezer temps to make sure the contents don't get too soft.

I need to see what the shroud is and how to remove it on my fridge, maybe my model is a bit different.

Also, not stuffing the freezer compartment with food (like I did this time) should help air circulation.

The space behind the fridge has the 4 drawers underneath the sink, plus some empty room with cables, connections, the multiplex box. I could rig up something to get more cooled air in there but this would be a phase 2 thing.
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Old 07-25-2022, 01:48 AM   #27
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Thank you for your comprehensive and thoughtful reply! Your recommendations are spot on, I will try all of them in the future.

Taking out the drip tray is the simplest mod, easy to do, just need to remember to catch the water when the fridge is defrosting after a longer period of use.

Similarly easy will be to prop the freezer door open. Of course, need to watch the freezer temps to make sure the contents don't get too soft.

I need to see what the shroud is and how to remove it on my fridge, maybe my model is a bit different.

Also, not stuffing the freezer compartment with food (like I did this time) should help air circulation.

The space behind the fridge has the 4 drawers underneath the sink, plus some empty room with cables, connections, the multiplex box. I could rig up something to get more cooled air in there but this would be a phase 2 thing.

I think you are on the right track. It will be interesting to see how it works out for you. Keep us posted.



Stuffing the freezer appears to be less an issue than having airflow blocked in the frig section, at least per my recent testing. It is very easy to get a lot food there and stop the air from dropping to the bottom areas. Opening the freezer door dumps the cold air right down along the door where it is mostly open to the bottom of the frig.


With the freezer door open 3/4" on our frig we get about 17*F freezer temp (in the middle of the freezer so not right at the door) and 37* in the frig at the bottom middle. This is with almost all the air blocked at the shelves which had towels on them. With no towels, the same test gives 25* freezer temp with 37* frig temp and I have to turn the thermostat about 3 numbers warmer, showing that it is running much more efficiently.


Unfortunately, we won't be getting much for hot area testing this year as our next trip is in late fall, but next spring we should for sure.
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Old 07-25-2022, 04:29 AM   #28
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That’s a heck of a deal on the RV.

We looked at this model also. But the one thing that bugged me was the uneven floor which potentially can be a hazard especially walking around in the dark. The other thing was having the bathroom in the rear eliminated the epic rear view when in the wild with rear doors open and screens in place.

Lithium batteries got pros and cons. We have 400amps with solar panels (300 amps, as I recall). On a fully charged lithium ion batteries we can run the AC at 78 degrees F (ambient temp of 90 degrees F) for about 3.5 hours before EVERYTHING shuts down. Then we have to crank up the diesel Sprinter front engine to run the under hood generator. This is NOT recommended by Mercedes due to clogging up the diesel particulate filter/emissions system. So we have a gas portable generator on a rear bumper hitch tray for extended runs (but it’s not automatic. So I have to go outside to manually connect and turn on and off).

Also in freezing temperatures the lithium ion batteries will not accept charge inputs. We can use it by drawing current but not charge it. I believe ours has a heater jacket but not sure…… did not have a chance to test it. I believe the lithium ion batteries will not accept charge inputs if above a certain temperature either.

BTW, our HOA had not bothered us about our Roadtrek SS Agile (we are in SoCal). But a friend who lives in Orlando FL recently bought a Thor Tellero RV got told he can not park it at his driveway only after about one week after his purchase!!!


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After several years talking about owning a RV, researching, watching videos, visiting dealers, reading and posting in forums, and weighing all options and prices I finally purchased one... here is a review with some snaps for those who may find themselves in a similar situation.



We went through a lot of decisions which narrowed down our choice a lot.

Rather than renting a space at a storage, we wanted to park it in the driveway in front of the house, which limited the length to <19ft, and brought down our choice of vehicles to pretty much nothing.



We also did not have the time nor knowledge to DIY, and prefer a mass-produced unit rather than something custom built which may need a lot of fine-tuning and micro-managing.

We wanted something fairly recent to keep the maintenance and repairs to a minimum, at least initially. Yet also looking for a "good deal" to reduce the amount of money one loses when purchasing a new vehicle.



We wanted a bathroom/toilet, an air conditioner, and enough space to stand up. At the same time, it should be compact to make it easy to drive, yet provide sleeping space for at least 3 peeps.

Wife also wanted it to look nice, warm and welcoming, not "industrial" like the Solis with it's garage-looking flooring. I like efficient space use so turning a lounging area into a bed for example is a plus.



After all these wishes and desires there were no options left in North America until mid 2021, when Thor started bringing in the 18ft Rize/Scope. Two floor plans, only one of them has a bathroom so that left us with the 18M model.

With Covid and inflation hitting, demand for RVs went up, while the supply crashed, leading to ever increasing prices. This delayed our purchase by a few months until we accepted a "slightly used" one for 75k + the usual.



After owning it for a few weeks, and spending some time with it during a number of short trips there are quiet a number of things we like, we don't like, and we wish for. Of course, we will know more once we experience a (few) longer trip(s).
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Old 07-25-2022, 03:17 PM   #29
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Thank you for your reply! Everyone is different, and has their own preferences/limitations. For us, even though we don't have to deal with an HOA, the <18ft length was a requirement so it would fit into the driveway. Also we wanted a functional bathroom (shower/toilet/sink) and A/C.

Same goes for the floor plan. I see your point about the rear lounge area, but at the same time, I love stepping through the sliding door into an (at least visually) open area, rather than running smack into the bathroom stall. Also, being rather tall, the configurations with the bathroom right behind the driver's seat did not appeal to me, as that limits the movement/reclining of that seat (as in the Zion/Simplicity layout, for example).

Also, laying down we can view the surroundings through the open sliding door and the opposing window. Probably not that different than looking through the rear doors. We love those diy setups where the bed can be slid out of the van completely for some awesome stargazing, but that is not something that will be available commercially.
With the bathroom in the back, I can take an outside shower using the shower head extending through the rear doors... without having a dedicated outdoor shower.

Agree with the Li-battery downsides... I do prefer my cheap and simple AGM batteries which can easily be charged via solar, plug-in, generator, or a quick drive, and the 200Ah keep the fridge running for a while. The generator allows us to run the A/C without having to idle the engine. While the higher energy density of Li-batteries is tempting, I don't think it would help us much unless we quadruple the capacity, which is not cost effective. Of course, like I stated in the beginning, everyone is different, and at some point in the future things will be all electric, I am sure.
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Old 08-25-2022, 12:20 AM   #30
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There is a 2022 Thor Rize 18M for sale near me (private party, not dealer). I am a newbie and not that much of a do-it-yourselfer. Based on what you wrote, I don't think this is the vehicle for me. I think I would be frustrated with the mediocre workmanship and things falling apart and needing to be contstantly fixed, even on a new van. It sure looks nice though and the price point is good. But going to continue my search for maybe a Travato K. Thank you for the comprehensive review.
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Old 08-25-2022, 06:45 PM   #31
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There is a 2022 Thor Rize 18M for sale near me (private party, not dealer). I am a newbie and not that much of a do-it-yourselfer. Based on what you wrote, I don't think this is the vehicle for me. I think I would be frustrated with the mediocre workmanship and things falling apart and needing to be contstantly fixed, even on a new van. It sure looks nice though and the price point is good. But going to continue my search for maybe a Travato K. Thank you for the comprehensive review.
I think all RVs, whether new or used, will require some handiwork. They are just very complex systems in a small space, and vibrations/potholes will over time shake things lose. So, unless you live next to the dealer that sold you the RV, I would expect just a minimum of things you may want to tackle yourself (or get a friend/relative etc).

I don't live close to where I purchased it (about 5 hours one way) so having to drop off the RV and finding a ride back and not knowing when they will fix the problem and having to be ready to run back as they charge a lot for "storing" your car is all really ugly. Had to do it once and it is a great inspiration to learn how to do things on your own.

That said, it is known that Thor is pretty low on the quality scale, while W-go should hold things together a bit better. Pleasure Way should be even better. This is also reflected in the price. I am still pretty happy with my choice, especially after our recent (first) longer (2600mi) trip. The biggest scare is the (lack of) ground clearance which makes it unfit for most unpaved roads, and care needs to be taken with speed bumps, gas station entry/exits, etc.

Some people suggest not getting a brand new camper, but instead one with some miles on it which has the initial issues fixed. I sort of went that way but found that most of the initial issues were not corrected. But I got a good discount at least.

I don't mean to discourage anyone, just sharing my experiences.
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Old 08-25-2022, 09:32 PM   #32
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Even if you bought a more expensive unit like an Airstream (which now is part of Warren Buffet’s RV enterprise) or a Roadtrek (now owned by a reputable French company, Ripido) you will find issues. It really depends on the RV dealership too. Plus how handi you are with fixing things.

I do agree as you move up on the food chain the quality (generally) improves.

We bought a brand new Roadtrek SS Agile last October 2021. This is built by the the new Ripido company. We use it a lot. We are currently doing a trip from SoCal to Alaska. Yes, we had issues, but nothing too serious to stop using or enjoying the RV. It’s the little things my wife and I found very annoying. Too many to list here. It’s a matter of how much you can tolerate. For us we understand that every time we drive down the road it like an earthquake of 6+ Richter scale on this condo on wheels!! Given the BIG pot holes enough to break a wheel/axle/spring near the Canadian and Alaska border…… BTW, after literally hours and hours driving with constant potholes and road constructions we knocked our front alignment totally out (I had our local Mercedes Sprinter do a 4 wheel alignment just a day before we took off). By the time I realized the alignment was knocked out…… our two front tires had severe uneven wear. Luckily Canadian Tire had two right spec tires at reasonable prices to replace in no time.

It’s also true that even if one spends more than one mil for an RV, you will still have issues. The issues will likely be more complicated and expensive for sure!! The RV dealerships and manufacturers’ motto is: We will fix it AFTER you buy it.



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There is a 2022 Thor Rize 18M for sale near me (private party, not dealer). I am a newbie and not that much of a do-it-yourselfer. Based on what you wrote, I don't think this is the vehicle for me. I think I would be frustrated with the mediocre workmanship and things falling apart and needing to be contstantly fixed, even on a new van. It sure looks nice though and the price point is good. But going to continue my search for maybe a Travato K. Thank you for the comprehensive review.
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Old 08-26-2022, 12:03 PM   #33
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There is a 2022 Thor Rize 18M for sale near me (private party, not dealer). I am a newbie and not that much of a do-it-yourselfer. Based on what you wrote, I don't think this is the vehicle for me. I think I would be frustrated with the mediocre workmanship and things falling apart and needing to be contstantly fixed, even on a new van. It sure looks nice though and the price point is good. But going to continue my search for maybe a Travato K. Thank you for the comprehensive review.
RVs can be a lot of fun. Most are not put together very well. Before you purchase a particular model/builder. I would suggest going to FB and join a group like Travato wannabees or Coachmen wannabees. You can read about issues owners are having with their rigs. Get an idea what you can look forward to.

Probably custom companies like Embassy RV build much higher quality class B's. Unfortunately, the wait is over 1 yr? Also we get what we pay for? Expect to pay more for better quality.
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Old 08-26-2022, 04:14 PM   #34
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Also we get what we pay for? Expect to pay more for better quality.
In looking for better quality, one can also look for an older, well cared for RV. Some (not all) of the older RV's were better built than today's new ones. For example, our older van didn't cost much and was constructed with no particleboard whatsoever. Every piece of the interior is solid oak or oak plywood. The design and build-out is solid, warm, and completely dry. Those were better days in so many ways!
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Old 09-08-2022, 09:06 PM   #35
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In looking for better quality, one can also look for an older, well cared for RV. Some (not all) of the older RV's were better built than today's new ones. For example, our older van didn't cost much and was constructed with no particleboard whatsoever. Every piece of the interior is solid oak or oak plywood. The design and build-out is solid, warm, and completely dry. Those were better days in so many ways!
The flip-side is, of course, that certain things advance, and are available as standard options on newer vehicles.

I am sure there is a lot... couple of things that come to mind are LED lights throughout, compressor fridges, ABS brakes, multiplex panels, automatic generator start, solar panels...

This is similar to deciding whether to buy a mass-market or custom-made RV or DIY... To me, buying an almost new RV makes the most sense, with the initial loss of value eaten by someone else, some of the initial glitches taken care of, but still everything in almost new condition with a long-ish expected life span.
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Old 09-21-2022, 09:12 PM   #36
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Hey!

I really appreciated all of your details here.

I was thinking about buying one of these. However, one thing that really bums me out is that the 110 volt plugs are disabled if not connected to shore power or when not running the generator.

This means no charging your laptop or other similar electronics even if the battery has the capacity. The USB ports still work, but can’t plug a computer into those.

Have you found any good work around for this set back?


I’m actually more interested in the 18A…but there’s no wine guard connect because of the pop top, and the AC is on the floor which probably pretty lame since heat rises.
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:01 PM   #37
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Hey!

I really appreciated all of your details here.

I was thinking about buying one of these. However, one thing that really bums me out is that the 110 volt plugs are disabled if not connected to shore power or when not running the generator.

This means no charging your laptop or other similar electronics even if the battery has the capacity. The USB ports still work, but can’t plug a computer into those.

Have you found any good work around for this set back?


I’m actually more interested in the 18A…but there’s no wine guard connect because of the pop top, and the AC is on the floor which probably pretty lame since heat rises.
Hey there! It's not quite like that. You have a little box in there called an "inverter" which, when turned on, delivers 110V to a few selected outlets. So, as long as your house battery is good, you can charge laptops and such all day.

Now, to do that wonderful inversion takes a bit of energy all by itself, so it is not as efficient as running a 12V device (or 5V USB). No issue while you are driving or have a full battery, but not something you can run day and night while off the grid.

Newer laptops (and tablets etc) can be charged via USB-C so to be honest, I have not used the inverter-produced 110V a lot.

As for heat rising, it's probably not an issue as those A/C's work via a fan which blows the cold air around in the camper, which would prevent layers of hot and cold temps... I think.

I haven't used the Winegard for anything useful, and actually hate that it runs the whole time without the ability to turn it off. It is actually HARDWIRED to the battery according to Thor, which is either nuts, or a conspiracy to remote control all RVs. Who knows.
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Old 09-22-2022, 01:30 PM   #38
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Hey!

This means no charging your laptop or other similar electronics even if the battery has the capacity. The USB ports still work, but can’t plug a computer into those.
The USB ports will keep your phone charged. Even with my AGM batteries, once a day I would turn on the inverter and plug the computer in to charge. My solar took care of the power usage if the sun was good. Not a big deal.

Another option that I have read of people doing is to get a small inverter so that you can charge using less power than the big inverter.
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Old 09-22-2022, 04:00 PM   #39
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The USB ports will keep your phone charged. Even with my AGM batteries, once a day I would turn on the inverter and plug the computer in to charge. My solar took care of the power usage if the sun was good. Not a big deal.

Another option that I have read of people doing is to get a small inverter so that you can charge using less power than the big inverter.
Thanks for the reply. Our laptops have those DC power blocks on the cables which only have a 3 prong connection.

I don’t believe there is usb to 3 prong adaptor in the short time I spent googling for one.
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Old 09-22-2022, 07:07 PM   #40
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I wonder how much work it would take to replace the batteries with Lithium batteries to avoid running the generator.

You mentioned that the generator was surprisingly quiet. I’d love to see some footage of it running if you have any!

As I mentioned, I’m very close to buying a Rize 18A, but it’s a drive to make it down to the dealer to try all things I forgot to do when I was there last!

Im less concerned about the cost of gas to run the generator, but more so want to be more incognito for any impromptu boondocking situation.
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