2022 Thor Rize 18M (same as Scope) Review with Pitchers!

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by booster

A 1000 watt microwave uses much more than that on input side, probably 1200+ watts while running and much more than that starting. A 1500 watt Samlex pure sine wave inverter was just barely enough to run the 700 watt Dometic microwave we have. You would need at least 2000 watts, maybe 2500 watts to run a 1000 watt microwave.

I know... I was referring to the actual wattage drawn by the microwave. I am not sure what 'they' call it, maybe a 650W or 800W or what, but it uses around 1080W when warming a cup of water, according to the display of the power station.

In other words, you need something capable of about 1000W to run the microwave in (my) 22 Rize.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Urlauber

I know... I was referring to the actual wattage drawn by the microwave. I am not sure what 'they' call it, maybe a 650W or 800W or what, but it uses around 1080W when warming a cup of water, according to the display of the power station.

In other words, you need something capable of about 1000W to run the microwave in (my) 22 Rize.

Have you watched the wattage/amps when you first push the start button. That is usually much higher than running. Our 700 would flash higher than the 1500 watt continuous rating for the Samlex we had, but the short term overload capacity of the inverter was enough to cover it for the amount of time it lasted. Other inverters may or may not have as much overcapacity or time for it and could have issues. It gets real spotty when you are hanging right on the edge.


How big is the inverter in power station you were using? Pure sine wave?

[Urlauber]

Originally Posted by booster

Have you watched the wattage/amps when you first push the start button. That is usually much higher than running. Our 700 would flash higher than the 1500 watt continuous rating for the Samlex we had, but the short term overload capacity of the inverter was enough to cover it for the amount of time it lasted. Other inverters may or may not have as much overcapacity or time for it and could have issues. It gets real spotty when you are hanging right on the edge.

I did not see it spike - I understand there is some sort of spike, but the power station display may be a bit slow to update or show spikes. It is not an Amp meter.

Originally Posted by booster

How big is the inverter in power station you were using? Pure sine wave?

Yes, it offers pure sine and also handles surges of up to 2000W.
Very similar specs to the one in the camper which is a WF-5110RS (pure sine with a THD of less than 3%, also handles surges of up to 2000W).

One day I'll just plug it in and see what happens.

[GeorgeRa]

I run my Daewoo 650W (rated @ 950W input power) runs OK from the Magnum MMS 1000W.

[booster]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

I run my Daewoo 650W (rated @ 950W input power) runs OK from the Magnum MMS 1000W.

That one has a 1750 max surge so good reserve for starting.

[Urlauber]

I decided to just remove the MW as I don't use it enough. Reduced the weight, and got a large cabinet for other storage.

Now to DIY a good-looking, wife-approved door for it.

[Urlauber]

Figured it would be fun to post an updated list of things I have done for fixes/repairs/improvements.

• Table connector ripped out on the bottom - I put some plywood in the compartment behind it to give the screws something to hold. Still very wobbly, not sure what they were thinking. Removed the table as we don't use it much and it was just in the way.
• Bathroom sliding doors adjustments to keep them in their tracks, also added some stops on the bottom of the smaller one to keep it from flopping around.
• Shower liner popped out of its track on the driver side - fixed with some duct tape. Dealer did not want to touch it.
• Shower curtain track screws lose - fixed with some Super Glue.
• Using the shower leads to water getting underneath the bottom (where the Thetford is), wetting the OSB board underneath which can't be good. Added a bunch of siliconed plastic parts to channel the runoff away from the wood.
• Faucet in bathroom was very stiff, so much that I feared someone would just rip it out. Took it apart and put it back together and now it moves very smoooothly.
• Stuff in the bathroom mirror cabinet keeps falling out. So I've pulled some rubber bands across which help to hold the bottles in place.
• One of the Promaster rear clearance lights fell off... epoxied it back on. Also glued peeling wallpaper in the storage cabinets.
• Zip-tied some of the cables and hoses that were hanging down underneath the van.
• One of the coach battery wires was pointing downwards and got snagged on stuff due to the insufficient clearance - loosened and pointed upwards.
• Some of the screws securing the awning to the roof were lose. Tightened. Also added some silicone to gaps around the roof appliances. Not sure if necessary but I like silicone, so...
• To automate cooling, I added a thermo controller to the fan, so now it turns on automatically when the temps go over a certain threshold.
• Refrigerator: Freezer door is supposed to stay up via a magnet. I feared that someone (like me) would try to close the fridge door while the freezer was still open, ruining the gaskets and breaking the door in the process. Glued in a little sponge cube that keeps the door from sticking on top.
• There is a drain valve on the bottom of the freshwater tank. To facilitate draining the water between trips, I used a length of plastic pipe with two notches that just-so fit over the valve handle. That pipe goes up to the plywood cover of the compartment, and has a screw across on top. Cut a hole into the wood cover, and with some more plastic pipe, fabricated a key that fits into the pipe through the hole, and allows me to open/close the drain valve without having to unscrew the cover. Whew. Picture would be worth ~1000 words.
• They did some welding/cutting on top leading to metal chips embedded in the paint, which started to rust. Cleaned, painted, and clear covered those.
• There are some places which squeak, added foam and stuff between those surfaces to quiet them down.
• Siliconed plastic strip to back of kitchen counter to prevent water spills running down into electronics and wires underneath. Silicone bead added on the right to keep water out of gap.
• There is a hole in the bottom through which rodents and dust can come in. It's in the compartment underneath the sink. Removed drawers, covered it with some chicken wire to discourage critters, and some coarse textile to keep most of the dust out, while still allowing air to enter when the fan is running on top.
• Behind the inside cover of the wardrobe, where the water filter is, some of the wires were not insulated. Fixed those to prevent sparking and stuff.
• Added a lock to the drain-hose compartment since I read that it tends to open up while on the road and lose the hose.
• Added a locking gas cap to reduce the chance that some clown fills my tank with water.
• One of the first and best things I did was to add carpets/runners/rugs to the isle and the area in front of the fridge. Especially in the cold season, if you take off your shoes inside, the vinyl flooring is very cold, hard, and unpleasant. This also makes it really easy to clean, just pull out the carpets and smack them around a bit.
• Added an electronic rear-view mirror. Provides a much better view. The built-in backup camera is just really bad, works to back up, but it is pointed down, and very low-res and just not good to use as a regular mirror.
• Added some strong Neodymium magnet to keep the mirror cabinet closed during drive. Still two settings with one being easier to open.
• Front rubber flap falling off - zip-tied/screwed back on
• Glued metal magnet connector on bathroom mirror - moving and may be falling. Silicone!
• Integrated Jupitek S1200 Power Station via 3way switch - charge, off, or run the camper
• Added switch to disconnect BMPro when Main Switch is on (to save the tablet battery from overcharging)
• Added some RTV dots around stove top to reduce noise
• Overhead cabinet door hinge ripped out… moved hinge and added some wood glue to all screws going into the frames
• Insulated PEX pipes at water pump to reduce noise. Don't think it makes a difference.
• Stove grid rubber grommets keep getting pulled out and lost - glued in place with some RTV silicone
• Glued T-Level to kitchen cabinet to evaluate needs for leveling blocks
• Glued Mirror Tiles to Kitchen side
• Siliconed bathroom sink drain gap to reduce leaks
• 3/4in freshwater tank drain connector to keep battery dry
• Added switch to disconnect Solar Panel from SCC and use its output to recharge the 1220Wh Power Station directly.
• Refrigerator: Freezer door is supposed to stay up via a magnet. Screwed in hinge which hangs down when door is opened and prevents freezer door magnet from engaging, unless the hinge is folded up.
• Solar panel brackets vibrated their way out of the roof sealant. Tightened up the connections and covered with some silicone. Considering to clean the tar stuff off and replace with butyl rubber seal and Eternabond.
• To reduce shaking and risk of it falling down, removed loose screw from over-stove cabinet, replaced with longer/fatter one, added another screw in the center.
• Removed microwave to reduce weight and gain more storage space.
• Added anti-slip bottom and plastic tiles backsplash to Microwave cabinet
• Added door with soft-close hinges to (former Microwave) cabinet
• Fridge fan (Costech 74cfm 35db) getting super noisy - replaced with Enermax Marathon (Enlobal/Maglev) fan 44cfm 17db

Some of these may be a bit cryptic and easier to understand with pictures, let me know if you want me to dive deeper into any of them.