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Old 08-13-2016, 12:56 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mojoman View Post
Might suggest a shore breaker that has a safety feature to prevent wrong polarity. Two of my blue sea devices have them and show a green light when the power is good. Otherwise a simple $10 plug in voltage tester will work before plugging in to a RV site panel.
I have already hard-wired in a Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30 on my shore power feed.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:11 AM   #22
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Sadly, I can't get to my project this weekend - issues at the jobsite keeping me from it.

One thing I've noticed in videos on prepping my cables, most all of them show crimping on the lugs plus adding solder.

I asked a contractor about these large cables and he indicated they never solder the larger ones - the crimp is good enough. Granted, to them 4/0 is small cable.

What does the group say?
I watched Advanced RV crimp my 4/0 cables. There was no soldering involved.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:00 PM   #23
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With a proper crimp, soldering is unnecessary and not even desirable (creates stress points).But, it requires the correct tool. With a good crimp, the individual strands of the cable are essentially fused together into a solid mass. This requires a hydraulic crimper. I am not saying less will not work, but it is not optimal.

I got the cheap one you see on Amazon and eBay. They may not be durable, but when they work, they work fine.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:48 PM   #24
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,

>With a proper crimp, soldering is unnecessary and not even desirable (creates stress points).


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Old 08-13-2016, 04:11 PM   #25
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Although, I do crimp the big cables, and don't solder them, I am a big fan of soldering over crimping. Crimping and soldering if done properly is very, very good IMO. I solder only all my inline splices of wiring, and very often will solder small connectors after crimping to reduce vibration failures. Soldering the big cables after crimping is really tough unless you have huge solder pot, as by the time you get hot enough for the solder to penetrate the joint, you have damaged the near insulation on the cable.

My experiences in industry with equipment and other manufacturing processes consistently pointed to crimping being significantly more prone to wire breakage due to vibration, when compared to soldering. When you look at how each works, it really does make sense, although with some exceptions. When I was still working, I often heard that crimping was better, but usually from sales guys, and rarely from the maintenance mechanics (unless they had just returned from a vendor seminar).

The crimp connectors that are a single crimp, like the big ones we are talking about, or the automotive types that have the "strain relief" plastic on them are the ones that are the most prone to having the wire break from bouncing. The crimped area ends pretty abruptly, so the there is a fairly high concentration of stress at that point with little flexibility. One a well done solder joint, the solder travels up the wires strands a ways and tends to rather slowly taper off in rigidity, giving a somewhat automatic strain relief.

IMO, all crimped wires need to be restrained very well from bouncing, especially the big ones, or they are at risk of failure.

Of course, there are exceptions, which work very well. In small wires, the double crimp style connectors are really nice. The put a good, non distorting crimp on the insulated barrel, and then put softer crimp on the strain relief, over the wire insulation. Of course, the require very specific crimpers to match the connectors, so are not used much outside of manufacturing facilities. A cruder version is available in big cable stuff, usually with a mechanical clamp on the wire and a double bolt setup to crimp the cable on top of insulation. Used a lot for cable repairs, and are very bulky.

In industry, as well as here and elsewhere, this one of the topics where there are very many different opinions.
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:39 PM   #26
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A lot of crimping going on here.

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Old 08-13-2016, 05:31 PM   #27
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Are those fuses in holders? They look like they are just bolted to the bars and cables.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:01 PM   #28
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AMP PDIG crimped connectors are the standard for light aircraft with no solder. You do need to use a good crimper and all wiring needs to be secured along its path to minimize vibration and strain on the wire. These have a crimp on both the wire and the insulation to insure strain relief at the wire crimp.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:05 PM   #29
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Looks like ARV is using the Tyco Kilovac relays, no issues with parasitic loads with those...
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:08 PM   #30
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Are those fuses in holders? They look like they are just bolted to the bars and cables.
Looks like the shunt and the inline fuses and the relays are all secured to the side of the battery box...
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:23 PM   #31
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AMP PDIG crimped connectors are the standard for light aircraft with no solder. You do need to use a good crimper and all wiring needs to be secured along its path to minimize vibration and strain on the wire. These have a crimp on both the wire and the insulation to insure strain relief at the wire crimp.
Those, or non flight rated versions of the same are very common in process equipment. The biggest downside is that most of the control wiring is run in snap cover wiring channels, so not much support in place. Sometimes there is up to a foot of loose wire between the device and the channel.

I think the military and commercial airlines still require soldering?
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:25 PM   #32
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I think the military and commercial airlines still require soldering?
Um, just the opposite, I think:

http://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/m...Chapter_11.pdf

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Copper Terminal Lugs. Solderless crimp style, copper wire, terminal lugs should be used and conform to MIL-T-7928. Spacers or washers should not be used between the tongues of terminal lugs.
Soldering appears to not be uncommon in aircraft avionics, but as far as I can see, it is no encouraged.

As I see it, the consensus seems to be that crimping is generally recognized as being superior, but the difference is not large.
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