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Old 08-06-2015, 04:53 AM   #1
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Default Need Solar Charger Recommendations

I would like to have a solar charging system for the two 6 volt batteries in my 2006 Roadtrek 210 to: 1. maintain the batteries when they are not being used in-between trips (primary), and 2. to help recharge while boondocking (secondary).

I want to keep it simple. I'm fine with a portable unit if it is easy to store, but I am OK with installing panel(s) if that makes sense. Flexible panels would be preferable. From the research I have done it looks like having a quality controller is essential.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Pete
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:05 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peteco View Post
I would like to have a solar charging system for the two 6 volt batteries in my 2006 Roadtrek 210 to: 1. maintain the batteries when they are not being used in-between trips (primary), and 2. to help recharge while boondocking (secondary).

I want to keep it simple. I'm fine with a portable unit if it is easy to store, but I am OK with installing panel(s) if that makes sense. Flexible panels would be preferable. From the research I have done it looks like having a quality controller is essential.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Pete
To me, the Blue Sky 2512 charge controller with their Pro Remote is a very good controller at a reasonable price. Runs off a shunt, so you get a full battery monitor and allows very accurate return amp charging control. Be aware that if you go over two panels you have to be parallel, not series as a 24v system is the most it can handle.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:04 PM   #3
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It gets no simpler than a portable panel. The controller is usually integrated on the back of the panel, and there is a pigtail you attach to your batteries. The downside to going portable is that you have to set it out which could be problematic if you keep your van in a storage yard.
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:24 PM   #4
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I have been reading many posts about charging systems in general, and also solar systems. I just read some of Boosters posts on charging upgrades which was very helpful.
http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...ades-2724.html
http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...-all-2979.html
http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...trip-2958.html

Handybobs site is a great source as well.
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com

I have had my 2006 RT 210 for over 4 years and have never run out of battery power, though I’ve never really pushed it. We have camped up to 2 days without shore power or driving. The lights have gotten dim but everything has worked. I have 2 Deka 6 volt batteries, and I am amazed they have lasted this long with my poor maintenance habits other than making sure the battery water stays full.

I would like to be able to get the batteries to 100% charge for max power availability and battery longevity. What I have learned is: 1. I need to be able to monitor voltages and charge to 100%, and the TrippLite RV750ULHW may not be up to the charging task. So I guess that’s where the Blue Sky 2512 charge controller with Pro Remote comes in. 2. If I get the shore and solar charging up to snuff then I should install a manual switch to cut-off charging from the alternator. I’m OK with some manual operation with the system.

Wincrasher: the RT is parked at my house and a portable external solar charger would be OK. I would also like to be able to charge with solar while boondocking as well, though I don't want to take up too much room carrying the solar system. Since I have the generator I can revert to that in extreme situations, so I don't see a need for a huge solar system.

Booster it sounds like you have the experience to recommend what would be the upgrades needed to get the batteries to 100% charge on shore, solar, and alternator. I have tried to piece this together from your posts but it is somewhat overwhelming for someone new to this.

Again, all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Pete
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:04 PM   #5
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The Blue Sky will be good with whatever else you do, and accurately control the solar part of the charging. If the other parts are also doing as well, the solar will not interfere with anything else.

For the alternator cutoff switch, I really like the Blue Sea full manual one. Draws no parasitic and comes with a very nice switch setup. They also make a manual/auto one that is very similar, if you want to have both ways of control. Here is the thread on putting ours in. To use it properly, it is best if you can see a battery monitor, either on the solar or shore charger, or stand alone, so you know when to shut it off or turn it on, based on amps to the batteries.

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...rade-3586.html

A replacement charger for the Tripplite is a bit tougher, depending on what you need out of it, and if you are willing to do some manual work with it or not.

First off is what do you need. If you don't need an inverter big enough to run the microwave or other high load, you can get the smallest of the Magnum chargers, which are actually not as spendy as you might expect, especially if you are OK with modified sine wave. You do need to add an ARC50 remote and BMK monitor kit to them to get the accurate charging methods, though. The disclaimer is that there is a glitch in their programming that makes it so the unit does not do a full charge cycle (when it is in the desired return amp mode) unless the batteries are somewhat discharged and showing lowered voltage. This is a problem if the solar, or surface charge, is holding the voltage up on low batteries, preventing a full charge off of the shore power. In those cases you would need to manually start the charge cycle when you plug in--a 5 second job off the remote, but you have to remember to do it. Once into charge cycle, nothing more is needed and it will fill the batteries completely and not poorly interact with the solar.

I haven't found any chargers that do better than that, especially for the price of the smaller Magnums. Magnum has stated the glitch will be addressed in the next rev of the remote.

You can get equally good results from a Progressive Dynamics charger, but you would need to manually watch the amps going to the battery on a battery monitor, and switch it to float at the right time, and maybe put it back into bulk several times. Doable but inconvenient for sure.

The system described, and almost exactly what we are putting in, won't complicate things much at all. You would have an added shunt at the batteries, the different separator, a couple of remotes. The charger would still be a inverter/charger combo like the Tripplite. The solar would be essentially a standalone addon.

We have done the bench testing of most of ours already, and will be doing the final install this winter. Ours is more complicated mostly due to the 4 GC2 six volt batteries going into where the generator was.

We found that when we had the Tripplite, it would get our two GC2 Trojan wet cells only to about 85% full, and couldn't be tricked into doing another charge cycle to finish them, so you probably are getting similar. If so, you certainly could gain some capacity by getting all the way full.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:49 PM   #6
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I bought a Renogy 100 watt basic panel kit . It doesn't have an mppt controller but does a good job charging my two 6volt deep cycles while running a compressor fridge. It is a monocrystaline panel. I was in the Renogy shop in Chino California and was really tempted by the flexible panels but couldn't get past the knowledge that my 3 panels on my Bounder are mono and are still kicking butt after 20 years.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:52 PM   #7
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Renogy offers suitcase kits with or without contrller for very competitive pricing.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:18 PM   #8
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Thanks Booster. So the Blue Sky handles the charging control function for shore power and solar, but not from the alternator? Also, I really don't need high load capability so the smaller magnum should work fine. I would want to wait until Magnum gets their remote fixed before getting one though.

Given TrippLite's lower than desired charging voltage, I am wondering if activating the Equalize function would help bring the batteries to fuller charge. Of course it would be a hassle to throw the equalize DIP switch each time. Do you know what voltage goes to in equalize mode?
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:29 PM   #9
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The Blue Sky is just an MPPT charge controller for the solar, it doesn't control the shore charger. That is why you would need the Magnum remote and battery monitor, to control the shore charging.

The Blue Sky will show the current going into the battery, however, so with any charger you will know how many amps are going into the batteries. From that you can tell if the batteries are full.

I think the equalize if a little over 15 volts on the Tripplite, IIRC. I decided not use that when we had the Tripplite, as it is a bit high for electronics and such. I think it runs a fixed one hour, maybe two, each cycle. You could use the equalize, if you are OK with the higher voltage, and read the amps on the Blue Sky, or other monitor, to tell if you were full, but it would be a totally manual operation every time. You would also increase your water use quite a bit.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:48 AM   #10
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I've spent a few more days reading and thinking and right now here's where I'm at.

I am going to work on my batteries with a BatteryMinder (BM) and equalizing to see if I can regain some capacity. Unfortunately the BM does not look like it is able to get the batteries to 100% charge.

I tried to find a good hydrometer and that was a challenge. I got one at Sears that has a thermometer and guide for temp adjustment. The bulb is very fragile. I had tried to buy a similar one at NAPA and it broke as I was examining it. I may order a E-Z Red SP101 from Amazon.

For solar control and monitoring the Bogert SC2030 and TM2030 system looks pretty good.

I plan to stay with the TrippLite converter/charger/inverter for now. It can handle the high load Bulk recharge duty when needed. Solar can then top off and maintain. I'm OK with the small 750 watt inverter.

I haven't spent much time on the solar panel part yet, so any recommendations are appreciated. Flexible looks attractive to fit the roof of the 210 without drilling holes, but I'm seeing mixed results from others.

I can see why it has been a long road for those of you installing solar and/or upgrading the electrical system.
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