No dc power Hymer v2

Driverx1 · 05-12-2020, 05:35 PM

Hello. I have a 2018 Hymer sunlight v2 with no dc power even when plugged in to shore power. No lights on the dc panel or interior lights. Im looking for clues where to start looking. Starts and runs fine. I have no other history on the van. V2 does have the litheum batteries. I would think there would be some kind of power especially when plugged in. Ive been searching the forums but haven't come up with anything yet. Thanks.

markopolo · 05-12-2020, 07:20 PM

This should help: https://www.roadtrek.com/wp-content/...il-24-2017.pdf

Page 4 explains the use of the reset button.

Driverx1 · 05-12-2020, 08:01 PM

Thanks for that. I'll try resetting the batteries tonight.

Driverx1 · 05-12-2020, 11:43 PM

Thought i might have it figured but no such luck. Tried pressing litheum battery reset buttons for at least 30 seconds with the van running and again on shore power. Dead as a box of rocks. No power to electric panel nor to the inverter/charger. Nothing. Breakers and fuses look good. At a loss. Btw what is the red button on the drivers side door jam? Are there any other breakers i might be missing? Thanks.

markopolo · 05-13-2020, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driverx1

............Btw what is the red button on the drivers side door jam?.........Thanks.

Probably a switch to turn on the macerator when pumping out waste tanks.

markopolo · 05-13-2020, 09:39 AM

Reach out to KS2 Corp - https://ks2corp.com/ - maybe they can send you a troubleshooting checklist to work through. They might need to know what version modules your RV has. That info should be on the battery boxes.

mumkin · 05-13-2020, 03:03 PM

I don't have the lithium set-up and am happily vague with the whole process, but often when everything goes down like this, it is the infamous GFCI in the breaker box. Try turning it all the way off and back on again. It can be very hard to move it... gotta be strong.

Most likely you need to jump start the inverter. Your kicker battery is probably dead (the AGM underneath the vehicle that is important for keeping the system working). Most people do it with those small power packs like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/GOOLOO-18000m..._=sb_s_sparkle

I suggest that you get on the Facebook page for Carado and Sunlight owners. That is the best place for finding people that have had and fixed whatever problems come up.

Driverx1 · 05-13-2020, 06:53 PM

Thanks. I did open and close the gfi breaker with no luck. Makes sense to go to kicker battery next.

Driverx1 · 05-13-2020, 08:36 PM

Perhaps you could explain a liitle more about jump starting the inverter. Do you just hook up the jump starter to the kicker battery then turn on the inverter? Do you think a battery charger would do the same thing?

Driverx1 · 05-19-2020, 12:13 AM

OK so i hooked up a battery booster to the positive and negative terminals under the van. Loosened the plastic nuts and removed the red and black terminal covers. Booster was set to 80 amp boost, not the 80 amp jump start setting. After a couple minutes i was able to start one of the litheum battery banks. The inverter kicked on and panel had power. After hitting the reset button for at least 20 seconds the batteries reset and everyone stayed on. I turned shore power back on and disconnected the battery booster. Everything stayed on and the inverter showed shore power on battery charging. The battery bank was at 0% and is coming up slowly. I am only charging one battery bank at a time. I read somewhere that you should bring one bank up at a time. Tomorrow I'll start the other lithium bank up and let it charge. Next I need to figure out why the batteries got so low and stopped charging. According to the manual the switch on the inverter must stay in the off position at all times and only the inverter switch on the electric panel should be used. Also the lithium batteries should be turned on to charge. Im not sure if this was done correctly previously. Hopefully both banks will charge to 100% and I'll go from there.

rboegh · 05-21-2020, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driverx1

Hello. I have a 2018 Hymer sunlight v2 with no dc power even when plugged in to shore power. No lights on the dc panel or interior lights. Im looking for clues where to start looking. Starts and runs fine. I have no other history on the van. V2 does have the litheum batteries. I would think there would be some kind of power especially when plugged in. Ive been searching the forums but haven't come up with anything yet. Thanks.

I would say go to the Facebook group Carado and Sunlight Owners Group. Great group and tons of info and support. I would also say the Eco-Treks are great systems, but touchy. There are files of info on the FB group and here is a link to learn more from Roadtrek:

https://www.roadtrek.com/owners/#section-how

Lastly, if plugged into shore power you have to have your inverter on to charge the Eco's. If you can turn on inverter do that as it sounds like your batteries are just sleeping; when the fall below 12.5V (13.5V is full power) and 12.6V and below is danger of going to sleep. You can also try driving for 30-45 min on hyway if you have the GU unit. Then stop and try the reset procedure on the Eco's.

If all else fails take to a good RV shop that has someone who knows Lithium Battery systems and they can jump them or help if other issues like the Balmar controller or other.

Good Luck, Learn all you can and the systems are great once you know them! We love ours over last 2 years, but the first month or so was frustrating. The FB group helped us get knowledge and support!

Driverx1 · 05-25-2020, 12:40 AM

Thank you for your reply. I think i found the culprit. The balmar voltage regulator is mounted down low in front of the front drivers side tire. The electrical connectors have water in them and slight corrosion. Im going to clean all connections, reinstall with dielectric grease for a better connection and remount the balmar higher up under the hood. This should help keep the connections dry. Hopefully this will work and the balmar is still good.

rboegh · 05-26-2020, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driverx1

Thank you for your reply. I think i found the culprit. The balmar voltage regulator is mounted down low in front of the front drivers side tire. The electrical connectors have water in them and slight corrosion. Im going to clean all connections, reinstall with dielectric grease for a better connection and remount the balmar higher up under the hood. This should help keep the connections dry. Hopefully this will work and the balmar is still good.

Good to find the issue, we had same in first weeks with ours and had to get a new one and we mounted inside by the inverter, cost me about $300 extra in materials and labor to mount inside by my local RV guy. Worth every penny as that was a terrible idea to put on the frame. I was even nervous about underhood so went inside.

Good luck and have some fun once sorted out!!

Driverx1 · 05-27-2020, 12:51 AM

Mounting the Balmar regulator inside is a great idea. I repaired or replaced the corroded electrical connections. The inline fuses for the balmar were filled with water. The yellow butt connectors for connecting the inline fuses were corroded with no shrink wrap. Not even a piece lf black tape. The connections to the Balmar were all corroded. I fixed everything in place to make sure it would work. After jump starting the inverter, both lithium banks are on once again and presumably charging. Started at 0 and at 60% right now. If all goes well I'll be relocating the Balmar tomorrow. I believe if Hymer was still in business this would definitely be a recall item. Highly suggest relocating your Balmar regulator to a dryer location if it hasn't been done yet.

booster · 05-27-2020, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driverx1

Mounting the Balmar regulator inside is a great idea. I repaired or replaced the corroded electrical connections. The inline fuses for the balmar were filled with water. The yellow butt connectors for connecting the inline fuses were corroded with no shrink wrap. Not even a piece lf black tape. The connections to the Balmar were all corroded. I fixed everything in place to make sure it would work. After jump starting the inverter, both lithium banks are on once again and presumably charging. Started at 0 and at 60% right now. If all goes well I'll be relocating the Balmar tomorrow. I believe if Hymer was still in business this would definitely be a recall item. Highly suggest relocating your Balmar regulator to a dryer location if it hasn't been done yet.

When you go to move the Balmar inside, be sure to look at the manual if you have one, or get it off the Balmar site, as there is a section about increasing the distance from the Balmar to the alternator beyond the stock harness 54", that addresses wire sizes and voltage drop, which are very important for good voltage control and charging.

Driverx1 · 05-27-2020, 01:24 AM

Excellent point. Thank you. I'll be using the stock harness. Its long enough to reach up under the hood to a bracket next to the air intake.

booster · 05-27-2020, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driverx1

Excellent point. Thank you. I'll be using the stock harness. Its long enough to reach up under the hood to a bracket next to the air intake.

Sounds good, I thought you were going to the inverter location like was mentioned earlier, which is a long ways away.

Vernon · 07-02-2020, 05:39 PM

I have same van ...i would go to facebook..Hymer and wannabees Group..

rowiebowie · 07-02-2020, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vernon

I have same van ...i would go to facebook..Hymer and wannabees Group..

Welcome to the forum Vernon!

PaulB-2006 T4R · 07-09-2020, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rboegh

Good to find the issue, we had same in first weeks with ours and had to get a new one and we mounted inside by the inverter, cost me about $300 extra in materials and labor to mount inside by my local RV guy. Worth every penny as that was a terrible idea to put on the frame. I was even nervous about underhood so went inside.

Good luck and have some fun once sorted out!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by booster

When you go to move the Balmar inside, be sure to look at the manual if you have one, or get it off the Balmar site, as there is a section about increasing the distance from the Balmar to the alternator beyond the stock harness 54", that addresses wire sizes and voltage drop, which are very important for good voltage control and charging.

Hi rboegh and booster,

Where gave you gone to get the Balmer moved? So far I have no issues with the electrical system, my EcoTreks were replaced before I bought my Carado by LaMesa RV.

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