Onan external fuel pump

roadbiker1 · 06-24-2020, 05:30 AM

Trying to get the controlled dc power out of the box to the external pump without dropping the genset, this in a 2008 210 Popular w/ 2.8 KVFA26100K.
Any magic tricks for this? thanks

hbn7hj · 06-24-2020, 03:31 PM

You might be able to get to that lead on the left side of the generator but a better solution is to learn how to drop it. Put in a junction box for the AC lead. You will have to drop it eventually anyway, may as well learn how to do it now. Just an opinion.

Deano · 06-24-2020, 07:46 PM

Use a hole cutter large enough to get your hand through the hole to access the wires. Make a plate to cover the hole when done. The cover is fiberglass, so wear a mask.

hbn7hj · 06-25-2020, 02:26 AM

There is a detailed thread on this forum explaining the steps necessary but I don’t have the bandwidth to search for it. First step is to remove all grounds from the coach battery. The AC line goes through the floor and must be removed from the transfer switch. It is not convenient to remove it from the generator. You will need Torx bits to remove the generator from the brackets and those bolts may fail due to rust. Have fun and search for all related threads.

JohnnyFry · 07-01-2020, 06:18 PM

I too have a 2008C210P and have a related question. Not knowing the construction of the pump, or its operating principle, would putting a second pump mounted outside flow through the internal pump should it fail?

hbn7hj · 07-03-2020, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyFry

I too have a 2008C210P and have a related question. Not knowing the construction of the pump, or its operating principle, would putting a second pump mounted outside flow through the internal pump should it fail?

Dunno. I can tell you that you cannot blow through an Onan fuel pump. Just tried it. That doesn’t mean 4psi won’t open it up but it probably won’t

Wonderi39 · 07-03-2020, 04:47 PM

Thanks for this thread. I hope to replace the pump on our 2006 Popular 210 in the next week. I have the pump, filter and a valve to put in line from the gas tank. I have two long 45 degree pliers, essential to reach in to squeeze on the hose clamps that should be delivered today or tomorrow (or monday).

Also, I will change air filter. I almost decided on replacing the carb ($59). But the signs seem to point to the fuel pump.

I expect do to the work without dropping the generator. The plan is to back up onto my ramps. These have a max weight load of 3,000 lbs each. I need to get the rear axle weight before I try using them. If not, I will make a ramp from two by eight lumber, stacked.

Thanks for the note on disconnecting all batteries, to be safe. And, of course, make sure LP is tightly "off". And I'll remove the exhaust pipe, to make the area more friendly.

There is a video on Youtube that inspires me

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U72Zmk0BF-o

roadbiker1 · 07-03-2020, 05:23 PM

Just finished my external pump project. I dropped the genset maybe 8" with a floor jack, fought the cover up, grabbed the DC line to the internal pump, and extended it and the fuel line to aft of the genset where I put the filter / pump / fuel select valving. I found a feedthru rt angle bulkhead fitting for 1/4" and used this to get back into the genset.
Raising the cover was difficult. It has been suggested that cutting an access port in the cover would be easier, leaving the cover in place. I think this is better than what I did. Be careful, don't overcut.... I used a Dremel and a good air filter on my snout.
The RT is heavy, perhaps 9,000# total, guessing 3k rated ramps marginal. A good floor creeper essential as well. Safety first.
I put the fuel selecto on the WRONG side of the pump. Don't do that! Also Airtex E11007 has and angled output tube; for this app, a straight tube would be better.
Thanks to all the contributors on these Forums, you are an invaluable resource. Cheers

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/a...1&d=1593796588

rowiebowie · 07-03-2020, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadbiker1

Just finished my external pump project. I dropped the genset maybe 8" with a floor jack, fought the cover up, grabbed the DC line to the internal pump, and extended it and the fuel line to aft of the genset where I put the filter / pump / fuel select valving. I found a feedthru rt angle bulkhead fitting for 1/4" and used this to get back into the genset.
Raising the cover was difficult. It has been suggested that cutting an access port in the cover would be easier, leaving the cover in place. I think this is better than what I did. Be careful, don't overcut.... I used a Dremel and a good air filter on my snout.
The RT is heavy, perhaps 9,000# total, guessing 3k rated ramps marginal. A good floor creeper essential as well. Safety first.
I put the fuel selecto on the WRONG side of the pump. Don't do that! Also Airtex E11007 has and angled output tube; for this app, a straight tube would be better.
Thanks to all the contributors on these Forums, you are an invaluable resource. Cheers

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/a...1&d=1593796588

Nice job. Now that you're an expert, come do mine.

My generator has suddenly started working great for the first time in the 2-1/2 years since I've owned it. But, as you found out, it's hard to access most things and I'm sure I find out first-hand some day.

Deano · 07-03-2020, 06:47 PM

For information, the weight on the rear of my 05 210 RT with empty water tanks was 5860 lbs.

Wonderi39 · 07-04-2020, 12:20 AM

This not be the right place but you all sure know a lot about the Onan generator! I have a question . . . while the generator is running I hear a clicking behind the generator start switch, near my fuse panel in my 2006 Road Popular 210. I am new to Roadtrek and generators - but the sound seems unexpected. The microwave runs, the coffee maker runs. (until the generator quits at about 7 minutes - fuel pump issue). What should I make of the clicking sound. thank you

eric1514 · 07-04-2020, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wonderi39

This not be the right place but you all sure know a lot about the Onan generator! I have a question . . . while the generator is running I hear a clicking behind the generator start switch, near my fuse panel in my 2006 Road Popular 210. I am new to Roadtrek and generators - but the sound seems unexpected. The microwave runs, the coffee maker runs. (until the generator quits at about 7 minutes - fuel pump issue). What should I make of the clicking sound. thank you

It could be the clock keeping track how many hours the generator has run.

JohnnyFry · 07-04-2020, 02:23 PM

I have also investigated moving the pump outboard. On my generator it would be absolutely impossible to reach the pump from the rear and I have no desire to drop the unit. As was suggested in a later post I intend to cut a hole in the case, either with a Dremel or using a hole saw, taking care to avoid damaging the internal parts and inviting a lot of grief. I would leave the old pump in place, fish the 12 volt wire out and run a new fuel line into the carburettor.

JohnnyFry · 07-04-2020, 02:24 PM

It is the hour meter.

roadbiker1 · 07-04-2020, 04:15 PM

Hiya... I think you'll have to lower the unit maybe 8" to clear the steel hangers and access the fiberglass cover. You may need to disconnect the fuel line and the remote start cable but the DC to the starter motor and the AC to the coach probably have enuff slack. I used a Dremel with a small wheel ( and a good face filter ) to cut in the wrong place. I brought the pump's DC lline out thru the front of the unit thru a grommet to a terminal strip. Cheers

JohnnyFry · 07-04-2020, 05:46 PM

The power line is all I really need: feed to the pump is already outside the enclosure and it would be simple to run a new fuel line to the carb. I would abandon the old fuel line and pump in place.

hbn7hj · 07-05-2020, 03:33 AM

Just an opinion but you are 90% there. Detach the AC line and DC line, pull the generator out from under the coach and do the job right. A good learning exercise for a job that will eventually have to be done.

Traveler88 · 07-13-2022, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roadbiker1

Hiya... I think you'll have to lower the unit maybe 8" to clear the steel hangers and access the fiberglass cover. You may need to disconnect the fuel line and the remote start cable but the DC to the starter motor and the AC to the coach probably have enuff slack. I used a Dremel with a small wheel ( and a good face filter ) to cut in the wrong place. I brought the pump's DC lline out thru the front of the unit thru a grommet to a terminal strip. Cheers

Hi Roadbiker 1. Do you have any photos showing the location of the cut you made in the cover. Would appreciate anything you have. I am planning to leave the gen set in place and abandon the old fuel pump and filter and mount new ones externally. Got to get that DC line. Thanks......Bruce

roadbiker1 · 07-13-2022, 08:43 PM

Hiya, should have included my email: jaylharris@gmail.com

Traveler88 · 07-23-2022, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyFry

I have also investigated moving the pump outboard. On my generator it would be absolutely impossible to reach the pump from the rear and I have no desire to drop the unit. As was suggested in a later post I intend to cut a hole in the case, either with a Dremel or using a hole saw, taking care to avoid damaging the internal parts and inviting a lot of grief. I would leave the old pump in place, fish the 12 volt wire out and run a new fuel line into the carburettor.

Bruce Brown <brucebrown99@gmail.com>
Attachments
3:30 PM (1 minute ago)
to j

Mission accomplished. I was able to feed the 12v pump line out through the side of the fiberglass cover and then mount a new pump externally. I ONAN 6.jpg

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ONAN 2.jpg ONAN 6.jpg

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ONAN 5.jpgdid not lower the Onan. Everything works fine.

First of all I need to tell you that my RV is a 2008 Pleasure Way Excel TD. So the unit is mounted on the left side about midway. Because of this, it will be of little interest to you as to how I mounted my new fuel pump. I used two ramps on the front and rear of the left side to gain about 7 inches additional clearance. I used a 1" hole saw to cut two holes on the left side of the Onan fiberglass cover. A piece of PVC pipe slipped over the hole saw served as a stop to keep from penetrating too far into the case. I drilled the first hole near the rear of the cover at the approximate height of the top of the old pump inside. Using a borescope through this hole I could easily see the two wires protruding from the top of the pump. Again using the borescope I was able to manipulate a pair of short nose 45degree scissors to the 12v positive wire coming out of the pump and I cut it close to the base.

Next, I drilled a second 1" hole about midway using the camera through the first hole to estimate the location I wanted. Through this hole I was able to grab the 12v pump wire (which was now cut off from the pump) and pull it through the hole. About 4" came through and that was enough to splice on an extension. I have temporarily used black duct tape to cover the holes I drilled. I will order 1" plugs on line.

That's it. The old pump will remain inside the Onan. I attached photos on my pump location even though it does not apply to you. Note that I ran the new fuel line across the top of the Onan cover and drilled a small hole in the top near the front. The line comes down and loops under the original fuel filter which is still used.The loop allows for easy removal.

I could not have done this job without advice and photos from you and others. Thank you again. I also could not have accomplished this without the camera/scope that you can see in the photos. It was $60 on Amazon and worth every penny.

6 Attachments

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