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Old 07-29-2017, 08:34 PM   #1
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Default power cord connection to RV Melting

The female electrical receptacle that is fixed to the van is melting and sticking to the cord. The product is Furron. It is a 30 amp cord and receptacle. I use a surge a Surge Guard model 44260 between the pedestal and the power cord.

I had this problem 2 years ago. I replaced both the cord and the receptacle and it was fine until today.

Any Suggestions
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:48 PM   #2
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The female electrical receptacle that is fixed to the van is melting and sticking to the cord. The product is Furron. It is a 30 amp cord and receptacle. I use a surge a Surge Guard model 44260 between the pedestal and the power cord.

I had this problem 2 years ago. I replaced both the cord and the receptacle and it was fine until today.

Any Suggestions
Since 2013 I have 30A SmartPlug in my van, love it. Strait in insertion, safe connector. Used to be available in the marine version but now it is available for the RV market as well.
RV Market Smart Plug
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:55 AM   #3
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The female electrical receptacle that is fixed to the van is melting and sticking to the cord. The product is Furron. It is a 30 amp cord and receptacle. I use a surge a Surge Guard model 44260 between the pedestal and the power cord.

I had this problem 2 years ago. I replaced both the cord and the receptacle and it was fine until today.

Any Suggestions
If you are using the 30 Amp twist lock then this is a well known problem.

Inlet 110vac Twist Lock Power Connector. - Sportsmobile Forum

I don't know why any RV's are still using the twist lock.

Go "Smart Plug".
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:50 AM   #4
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heat/melting indicates a poor connection- loose or corroded wires.

hubbell type twist locks have been and are still in use for many 120/208/220 type connections.

mike
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:58 AM   #5
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heat/melting indicates a poor connection- loose or corroded wires.

hubbell type twist locks have been and are still in use for many 120/208/220 type connections.

mike
Yes they are still being used. Here is the argument that I think proves that they should be replaced.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com//i...g-post.159471/
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:13 PM   #6
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Other than GeorgeRa DIY B and he at the time had to configure a custom cord at the source end, I only know of one company that provides the SmartPlug in a Class B and that is Advanced RV when SmartPlug started offering an RV plug.

You'll never find a SmartPlug replacement cord in an RV store or campground store and I guess the competitiveness of keeping cost down is the reasons others haven't adopted it.
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:14 PM   #7
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Yes they are still being used. Here is the argument that I think proves that they should be replaced.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com//i...g-post.159471/
Golly. Do you think there is any chance that that guy has a commercial connection with Sailboatowners.com?

I have no opinion on the quality of the standard connectors (although I have never had any problems with mine, and they certainly are still the standard in the industry); and by all accounts the SmartPlug is a good product. But, I know a one-sided, self-serving polemic when I see one. Straw men everywhere!
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:19 PM   #8
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I didn't realize there were issues with melting until this thread but I have to say the Smartplug in infinitely better in plugging into the RV in convenience and location.
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Old 07-31-2017, 03:16 PM   #9
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I spent the past few days ( and will the next few weeks) working at Caesar's Coliseum.

there are approximately 700 theatrical stage lights-

each of with has a hubbel twist lock connector for safety and security.

they are industry standard.

I've never had one burn up or dislodge accidently.

The OP has a non-connector problem to address.

the repair may allow for the selection of another type connector ( fine as long as rated)- but I like to know I can fix/repair/replace with stuff from home depot

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Old 07-31-2017, 04:38 PM   #10
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As others have mentioned, the twist locks have been the standard in industrial applications for decades, and I have dealt with them in every factory I worked in for the last 45 years. The ONLY failures (like twice) were because the wire connections screws in the plug or socket were loose, either from careless assembly or poor strain relief on the wiring, I think.

That said, the sealing system used in outdoor models like are used in RVs is horrible IMO. Hard to put on, prone to damage, prone to leak, and worst of all lots of them have been removed or left loose. When I added our plug to the stock hardwired Roadtrek setup, I put it in the protected area in front of the driver side rear wheelwell, and added some extra splash protection to keep it dry when driving, even though it has a cover. Our plug seal stayed on about two uses as DW was unable to turn it tight. I have never found any water under the cover, or in the socket.

If a twist lock gets water in it, it will take forever to dry from the female side because of the deep and turned holes, and corrosion is inevitable.

My guess would be the units that are getting failures are getting moisture in them from some sort of sealing, use, or application type of thing like movement, huge temp swings, etc. When used in a dry environment, they seem to last forever.

I would also guess that the biggest improvement with the Smartplug is in the sealing, not the actual contact areas.
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:51 PM   #11
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...

The OP has a non-connector problem to address.

...

I agree.

Under normal operation, the cable or the connector should not heat up.


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Old 07-31-2017, 05:35 PM   #12
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..........................but I have to say the Smartplug in infinitely better in plugging into the RV in convenience and location.
Exactly, inserting the plug, day or night, is way easier than hunting right position for insertion with round plugs.

I had issues with twisted connectors but mainly during my boating days which could be attributed to continuous boat motion during mooring, it is difficult to tie up the shore cable so no motion is at the plug or exposure to salt water.
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Old 07-31-2017, 09:16 PM   #13
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I'm not sure what you are getting at about his connections, but MaineSail is a fabulous resource. He has tons of experience and writes up and videos great demonstrations of many boat issues that are shared by RVs. He provides a lot of evidence supporting his opinions.

You can see a few more burned out plugs and other disasters in his "Hall of Fail":

The Hall of FAIL Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com
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Old 07-31-2017, 09:28 PM   #14
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At least for me, as I mentioned, wasn't that there aren't some failures, but I think it is more related to bad sealing, not style of connection. Some of the conclusions to reason that were in some of the links would be questionable to me. In any of the connection systems, for instance, contact area is important to large enough (they make a big deal about larger area in the Smartplug system), but once big enough more area may do more harm than good as it can reduce the "wiping" efficiency of the parts when plugged in and out. Wiping is critical to removing corrosion from the contacts.

For outdoors, I do think the Smartplug is a good choice as the seals appear to be better, but to say the twistlocks are inherently bad is not correct IMO.
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Old 07-31-2017, 10:54 PM   #15
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At least for me, as I mentioned, wasn't that there aren't some failures, but I think it is more related to bad sealing, not style of connection. Some of the conclusions to reason that were in some of the links would be questionable to me. In any of the connection systems, for instance, contact area is important to large enough (they make a big deal about larger area in the Smartplug system), but once big enough more area may do more harm than good as it can reduce the "wiping" efficiency of the parts when plugged in and out. Wiping is critical to removing corrosion from the contacts.

For outdoors, I do think the Smartplug is a good choice as the seals appear to be better, but to say the twistlocks are inherently bad is not correct IMO.
+1.

That article contained some valid points, but overall it was ridiculous. I shouldn't use anything that was designed in 1938 because cars didn't have seat belts then? Tripe.
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:07 AM   #16
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I went with a twist lock and SS marine inlet because the marine versions (cords and outlets) had better built ones available than the RV ones. The smart plug is very good but very limited in availability, costly and if they go out of business you are stuck. I believe true marine grade cords have tinned copper and will generally last longer. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 08-01-2017, 01:50 AM   #17
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The smart plug is very good but very limited in availability, costly and if they go out of business you are stuck.
You are correct but I think the convenience of being able to plug it in without needing my glasses and in the dark is enough of a reason to change to the Smart Plug.

Availability is just an Amazon away and if Smart Plug goes out of business there is no harm unless mine wares out. Then I will just have to go with what is the next best option.

Smart Plug is costly but maybe the cost will come down if the volume goes up. There are lots of RV's and boats that need them.

To each his own. If you don't plug in often then that convenience doesn't mater. If you don't draw 20 amps or more thru the 30 amp plug maybe it will not get hot (but mine melted).
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Old 08-01-2017, 01:58 AM   #18
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On the twist locks, just paint a big mark on the socket and plug so they are easy to line up. We did that and it makes it absolutely easy to plug in, and we can't even see the contacts or end of plug while doing it.
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Old 08-01-2017, 02:16 AM   #19
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Wow, these photos and the Marina fire....really eye opening. I look at these and quickly get reminded of the Stab & Grab, by Pacific Electric, that was used in homes/mobile homes in the 70's. This one was easy to correct - just replaced the whole box - and aluminum wires. This Article is really bringing forth great info and just maybe it will get resolved someday. Ron
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Old 08-01-2017, 03:31 AM   #20
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On the twist locks, just paint a big mark on the socket and plug so they are easy to line up. We did that and it makes it absolutely easy to plug in, and we can't even see the contacts or end of plug while doing it.
Advanced RV like GeorgeRa's DIY is installing them below the back bumper for stealth which I like. You can connect and disconnect blind or with no light in the dark, and faster too. The shape is such that you don't have to visually line it up.

If you have experienced a Smartplug, one would not consider a twist plug I dare say 100% of the time.
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