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Old 01-24-2022, 08:08 PM   #1
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Default Roadtrek 2013 210 Separator failures

I've got a 2013 Roadtrek 210 and I'm having some random issues with a relatively new vehicle battery randomly going dead for no apparent reason. The battery disconnect switch is off and nothing electrical is left on. My question is has anyone had a battery separator fail and allow the vehicle battery to remain connected to the house batteries when the vehicle is off?
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Old 01-24-2022, 08:51 PM   #2
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I've got a 2013 Roadtrek 210 and I'm having some random issues with a relatively new vehicle battery randomly going dead for no apparent reason. The battery disconnect switch is off and nothing electrical is left on. My question is has anyone had a battery separator fail and allow the vehicle battery to remain connected to the house batteries when the vehicle is off?
I have had this issue where the isolator/separator would malfunction. This caused the circuit to stay closed. House and chassis stayed connected. Resulting in draining of my house batteries. I would come back and find the house battery voltage low. It is connected to 190 watt of solar so the house battery should stay fully charged. Finally changed out the isolator. Installed a switch on it to open circuit. Now I know the circuit will stay open when parked.
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Old 01-24-2022, 09:46 PM   #3
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I have had this issue where the isolator/separator would malfunction. This caused the circuit to stay closed. House and chassis stayed connected. Resulting in draining of my house batteries. I would come back and find the house battery voltage low. It is connected to 190 watt of solar so the house battery should stay fully charged. Finally changed out the isolator. Installed a switch on it to open circuit. Now I know the circuit will stay open when parked.
Thanks that's what I'm seeing. I'm going to replace the Separator and see what happens. I appreciate your help.
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Old 01-25-2022, 01:38 AM   #4
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Thanks that's what I'm seeing. I'm going to replace the Separator and see what happens. I appreciate your help.

If you replace the separator, you probably should look at the more modern electronic versions of them. Less energy loss, less heat, should last longer.
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Old 01-30-2022, 06:11 PM   #5
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Booster - I didn’t know there is an updated version of the separator. Can you give us a name and model number? Thanks.
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Old 01-30-2022, 06:24 PM   #6
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Booster - I didn’t know there is an updated version of the separator. Can you give us a name and model number? Thanks.

Blue Sea makes several versions of them that are very high quality but pretty expensive compared to some others out now. Numerous folks on here have various ones and would have a better idea of those units. We have used a couple version of Blue Sea ones and have settled on a full manual unit as suits or use pattern best. The make it an automatic version also. It is nice because it has a manual override on the unit itself and a remote switch for in the cab. The one on the unit locks it out for servicing safety and the inside one is for daily use as needed in both the auto and manual models.


Are you looking for similar function as the original unit Roadtrek used?
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:46 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info. I’ll do some reading up on them. I’ve not had a separator problem in two rigs and 12 years but you never know when a gremlin will reach up and grab you.
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Old 01-31-2022, 03:34 PM   #8
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I'm not sure why you and others think it's a battery separator issue. You stated "The battery disconnect switch is off" With that said, the house battery would not be draining it, at least not that quickly. You have another issue, IMO.Maybe start with the newer battery. Check connections etc. A few years back I had a new chassis battery installed at Auto Zone. It went dead after a few days. I checked the connections at the battery post and one was lose. I tightened it and problem solved.
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Old 02-26-2022, 04:55 PM   #9
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Blue Sea makes several versions of them that are very high quality but pretty expensive compared to some others out now. Numerous folks on here have various ones and would have a better idea of those units. We have used a couple version of Blue Sea ones and have settled on a full manual unit as suits or use pattern best. The make it an automatic version also. It is nice because it has a manual override on the unit itself and a remote switch for in the cab. The one on the unit locks it out for servicing safety and the inside one is for daily use as needed in both the auto and manual models.
Are you looking for similar function as the original unit Roadtrek used?
I was just poking around the posts and decided to add a bit to this thread Please note this is still the old-school setup, no solar, wet cell batteries, etc.

I had a couple of issues about a year ago on our RT 210P - one was the momentary switch for the battery in the control panel and the other was the Eaton 1315-200 battery separator. While I was at it, I also replaced the Intellitec 01-00055-000 RV battery disconnect solenoid relay (located under the bed, passenger side rear wheelwell).

The momentary switch was simple worn out, replaced with identical version. If you do this take a picture of the wiring as there are 6 wires connected to it, and disconnect the coach batteries.

The Intellitec solenoid was simple PM, and I kept the old one stashed in the van. Just a direct replacement.

The 1315 separator was starting to delay switching. I know that heat and corrosion can be an issue, but I also did not like the heat generated from the constant amperage draw needed to maintain closed contacts. As Booster noted the Blue Sea is a great replacement - I installed the Blue Sea auto 7622 unit in the same spot as the 1315 (engine compartment) and the remote switch into the dash. I'm aware of the recall on some of the Eaton separators, ours wasn't on the list though.

I did make a metal plate to attach to the engine cowling, then attached the 7622 to that, with a .25" air space between the the plate and the 7622.



The remote switch easily mounted into one of the dash panel sections. Wiring was routed through an existing grommet in the firewall just adjacent to the accelerator pedal and secured.



I didn't think that I would use the remote switch that much, but I've found for me at least, it's pretty handy. I've used it numerous times to just charge the coach batteries or to run the fridge the night before we leave for somewhere without having to have all batteries connected.

The other benefit is that the 7622 doesn't need all that amperage of the 1315 to stay latched so it generates very low heat. There's enough heat in the engine compartment that the unit absorbs, let alone generating it's own additional heat. The 1315 would get too hot to put your hand on without any engine heat added in.

Since this stuff has been installed, everything has worked perfectly. I also have an inexpensive battery monitor in the van just to see charging voltage to the coach batteries.
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Old 02-26-2022, 05:00 PM   #10
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I was just poking around the posts and decided to add a bit to this thread Please note this is still the old-school setup, no solar, wet cell batteries, etc.

I had a couple of issues about a year ago on our RT 210P - one was the momentary switch for the battery in the control panel and the other was the Eaton 1315-200 battery separator. While I was at it, I also replaced the Intellitec 01-00055-000 RV battery disconnect solenoid relay (located under the bed, passenger side rear wheelwell).

The momentary switch was simple worn out, replaced with identical version. If you do this take a picture of the wiring as there are 6 wires connected to it, and disconnect the coach batteries.

The Intellitec solenoid was simple PM, and I kept the old one stashed in the van. Just a direct replacement.

The 1315 separator was starting to delay switching. I know that heat and corrosion can be an issue, but I also did not like the heat generated from the constant amperage draw needed to maintain closed contacts. As Booster noted the Blue Sea is a great replacement - I installed the Blue Sea auto 7622 unit in the same spot as the 1315 (engine compartment) and the remote switch into the dash. I'm aware of the recall on some of the Eaton separators, ours wasn't on the list though.

I did make a metal plate to attach to the engine cowling, then attached the 7622 to that, with a .25" air space between the the plate and the 7622.



The remote switch easily mounted into one of the dash panel sections. Wiring was routed through an existing grommet in the firewall just adjacent to the accelerator pedal and secured.



I didn't think that I would use the remote switch that much, but I've found for me at least, it's pretty handy. I've used it numerous times to just charge the coach batteries or to run the fridge the night before we leave for somewhere without having to have all batteries connected.

The other benefit is that the 7622 doesn't need all that amperage of the 1315 to stay latched so it generates very low heat. There's enough heat in the engine compartment that the unit absorbs, let alone generating it's own additional heat. The 1315 would get too hot to put your hand on without any engine heat added in.

Since this stuff has been installed, everything has worked perfectly. I also have an inexpensive battery monitor in the van just to see charging voltage to the coach batteries.

I am not surprised at your results. Having the remote switch is a very handy thing. We have basically the same unit, but got it without the Auto function as we would never use it that way. Blue Sea did a good job on these setups.
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Old 03-29-2022, 12:04 AM   #11
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Default Separator Failure Confirmed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diver007 View Post
I've got a 2013 Roadtrek 210 and I'm having some random issues with a relatively new vehicle battery randomly going dead for no apparent reason. The battery disconnect switch is off and nothing electrical is left on. My question is has anyone had a battery separator fail and allow the vehicle battery to remain connected to the house batteries when the vehicle is off?
Follow Up: The issue was the separator. When it fails the relay sticks and connects the batteries draining the auto battery when the ignition is off. I checked the resistance across the contacts. Mine was 0 when powered, ~4 ohms hours after it should have opened back. The new one works great no problems.
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