Roadtrek 210 (1996) -- Weird Electrical Problem

gkise · 03-12-2021, 05:48 PM

Hi Guys,

I need your help please. Here's the problem:

Generator won't start from console. It will start at the generator itself. I can STOP the generator from the console. Also battery quickly goes from Full to Good very quickly and then stay at good.

Details:

1. Battery Check is good. It's a 1 year old battery I had checked recently at Les Schwab. Easy 500+ Amp cold cranking power.

2. We initially noticed this when the Battery went from Full to Good very quickly. Even after being on trickle charge. I then tried to start the generator but didn't have any luck (see #6 below).

3. Note: We keep the van connected to shore power at home so we can keep a heater in there to avoid any mildew buildup. Could this have caused a problem?

4. Battery goes from Full to Good even after being on shore power for weeks.

5. When trying to start the generator from the console, there is no click or indicator that it is active. I was able to start the generator by removing the cover of the generator and starting it there. So battery seems fine and delivering good cranking amps. And the generator works and charges the battery.

6. When this first started, I was able to get the generator running by starting the car engine and running for a while. Don't know if this was just coincidence or a real thing. As of today this doesn't work. Starting car engine did not enable me to start the generator from console (at the time I thought that the problem was the battery).

TLDR: Generator starts at the generator itself, but won't start (or even click) from console. It will turn off from console once started. Good battery quickly loses charge from full to good, even after being on shore power for long time.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have no idea where to look.

Thanks!
~g

Nic7320 · 03-13-2021, 09:11 PM

Either the remote switch or the wiring to the switch is bad. Try shorting the two connections together on the back of the switch with a screwdriver. If it tries to start, then it's a bad switch.

SteveJ · 03-14-2021, 12:36 AM

Those light up battery gauges are pretty much a joke. Get at least a digital volt meter or better yet, install a shunt battery monitor.

gkise · 03-15-2021, 03:06 PM

Thanks guys!

I ordered a replacement switch ($35) and will try that first. If that doesn't work, ugh...

I hope the bad switch can account for the weird readings on my gauges. I know just about anything wrong will make your electrical behave strange.

Will update...

Nic7320 · 03-15-2021, 04:09 PM

Wait, wait, wait. Did the gen set start up when the wires were shorted?

What were all the weird readings on the gauges? This sounds like there's a common problem, like a ground connection in your wiring that could be broken. That would effect almost everything on the console. More times than not, you're looking for a single point of failure.

Batteries that charge "very quickly" are often sulfated and no longer carry a full charge. When they're left below 12 Volts for an extended period, that kills batteries. But let's assume Les Shwab did a proper load test and your battery is still good.

Nic7320 · 03-15-2021, 11:14 PM

Years ago, I had a coworker with a Chevy pick-up that said he could only shut off his engine if the transmission was in reverse, brake was applied and the lights were on. Cause of this mystery: A broken ground in a taillight was sending current backwards to the coil. When things don't make a lot of sense, look for a bad ground connection.

gkise · 03-15-2021, 11:29 PM

UPDATE:

1. I pulled out the switch and shorted across the two top terminals. Bad news. It did not try to start the generator. Completely dead.

2. Note that when the generator is running (if I start it from the switch on the generator itself by crawling underneath the van), then the switch lights up AND I can turn off the generator.

3. So now what. I have no idea where to even begin looking for a loose ground/wire. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Nic7320 · 03-15-2021, 11:43 PM

Measure voltage with a voltmeter (DVM) from the RV chassis (DVM - black lead) to the ground (DVM + red lead) on the panel. It should be close to zero volts or slightly positive (< 50 mV) if there's a good ground connection, and will be elevated if your ground is broken. If it's elevated above 50 mV, GROUND IT with a wire if you can find a place to connect it. Then you can fix the actual problem if you find it, but it doesn't really matter if it is broken elsewhere and you can give it a better ground.

Or you can skip that step and just ground something on the panel without measuring it. If the problem goes away, then you know you had a bad ground -- somewhere. Just make sure what you're grounding is really supposed to be a ground and not a hot wire "cuz that's when the sparks fly.

What part of Oregon are you at?

When I was a volunteer fireman, we had one fire engine with a water leak. It was just too expensive to fix it right, so they did what they could and let it leak a bit. Sometimes an easy fix is the best way.

gkise · 03-30-2021, 09:02 PM

ALL FIXED!

It was an absolute ordeal to fix, but finally got it solved. Basically it was one broken wire from a terrible splice job (see pic), but there wasn't enough pigtail to repair easily. Just look at this mess...

I had to remove the connector from the back of the generator (2.5 hours of very finicky maneuvering) and then I installed high quality Deutsch connectors.

Anyhow--many thanks for all the advice and help!

mkguitar · 03-30-2021, 10:38 PM

wow that's quite an upgrade

I know how fiddly those connectors are

well done!

Mike

gkise · 03-30-2021, 11:26 PM

Thanks! Yeah -- I had never used those connectors (or any open barrel type connector). Between the research (lots!), tools (I had to purchase a racheting crimper with interchangeable teeth in order to crimp the Deutsch connectors), and trying to work in a space above the generator where I could fit in only one hand. I believe the entire project took about 3 weeks...for one lousy wire. lol

Getting that clip off was almost impossible. I ended having to remove the fuel line to the generator and then use tools, like a surgeon, to depress the clips on the side and pry off the clip itself. I had to do this because the pigtail of all white (of course) wires coming off the generator clip was so short I couldn't manipulate the tools to do the crimp. Crazy.

But by gum, I got it done without having to drop the generator!

You may also like: