Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-20-2019, 01:01 PM   #21
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ON
Posts: 220
Default

Thanks much. Replacing our power cord is also the first step to mitigate what may be a hot chassis condition.
Sensfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2019, 01:10 PM   #22
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 11,918
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensfan View Post
Thanks much. Replacing our power cord is also the first step to mitigate what may be a hot chassis condition.

What is giving you an indication of hot chassis? On shore power only?


Roadtreks have had some issues, we have heard, where they bonding the neutral and ground in the fuse panel, which can make the chassis a current carrying conductor.



With any RV, AFAIK, if you get open neutral and ground, you can have a hot chassis on shore power if bonded.
booster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2019, 01:15 PM   #23
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 991
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
What is giving you an indication of hot chassis? On shore power only?

Roadtreks have had some issues, we have heard, where they bonding the neutral and ground in the fuse panel, which can make the chassis a current carrying conductor.

With any RV, AFAIK, if you get open neutral and ground, you have hot chassis on shore power.
How do you check for a bonded neutral and ground in the vehicle?
peteco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2019, 02:16 AM   #24
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ON
Posts: 220
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by booster View Post
What is giving you an indication of hot chassis? On shore power only?


Roadtreks have had some issues, we have heard, where they bonding the neutral and ground in the fuse panel, which can make the chassis a current carrying conductor.
With any RV, AFAIK, if you get open neutral and ground, you can have a hot chassis on shore power if bonded.
Thanks much for the above Booster.
On two separate occasions this year when connected to shore power, I received a small shock while touching the chrome bumpers while my hands and feet were wet. The second event occurred two weeks ago at a beach campsite in the Maritimes. I disconnected from shore power and left the battery switch on ... no shock. I reconnected the shore power ... shock. I dried off completely ... no shock.
I bought a Klein NCVT-3 no touch voltage tester, range 12-1000 volts, after being told that it could detect future hot chassis condition so I can avoid any possible future shock. Per your comment re fuse boxes, when I connected to shore power and placed the Klein close to the three circuit breakers, it gave off high strength visual and audible signals. Considering this, I have also read that a tester that senses low voltage may provide a false positive in regard to a hot chassis.
We have no electrical diagram for our 2012 190-Ranger. This is unfortunate, as I believe that a certified electrician with rv experience needs to troubleshoot the situation.
Sensfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2019, 04:17 AM   #25
Site Team
 
avanti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,321
Default

Don't tarry on the hot skin condition. It is no joke. People have died.
__________________
Now: 2022 Fully-custom buildout (Ford Transit EcoBoost AWD)
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
avanti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 03:58 PM   #26
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Vermont
Posts: 2
Default

My problem is that have a '19 Coachmen Crossfit (now called the Beyond) and the plug config is a 3 screw round format. That does not fit. Has anyone else had to deal with this? I would love the SmartPlug but am not sure I can make it work. I am a newbie to the RV thing. Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2063.jpg (138.9 KB, 10 views)
LesterGreenberg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 04:20 PM   #27
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,648
Default

Hi Lester,


Welcome


you have a Hubbell ( manufacturer) type twist lock connector rated for 30 amps

( other 20 amp or 50 amp rated are different size and will not mate up)



pictured is the "socket" or "receptacle"


the plug is the end of the cord in your hand


what are you wanting to do?


The hubbell twist lock is standard in North America and easily replaced or sourced should you have a cable lost or busted ( like driving out connected- oops! )


The hubbel by design can only be connected correctly, locks into place, and has neutral and ground poles larger than the positive- for safety


connectors are available almost anywhere, home depot, lowes online




Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 04:30 PM   #28
Platinum Member
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,141
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LesterGreenberg View Post
My problem is that have a '19 Coachmen Crossfit (now called the Beyond) and the plug config is a 3 screw round format. That does not fit. Has anyone else had to deal with this? I would love the SmartPlug but am not sure I can make it work. I am a newbie to the RV thing. Thanks!
I would assume you can simply drill 4 holes and seal the existing ones. Smart Plug should cover existing 3 holes. Another option would be to add shore power inlet similarly to mine if you have a hitch.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/i...20#post-273290
Attached Images
File Type: jpg McmAster Al box with smart plug 2 2019.JPG (174.8 KB, 3 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf SmartPlug 30 Amp Product Dimension Details - Inches.pdf (862.3 KB, 5 views)
GeorgeRa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 07:14 PM   #29
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Vermont
Posts: 2
Default

Thanks Mike! It's a whole new world.

I would like to swap it for the simple plug in 30a SmartPlug and since it is a 3 screw round design as opposed to the standard 4 screw square design that SmartPlug uses, I was interested in what anyone has done to get around this. I suppose I can just "redo the space where the plug is and drill new holes to use for a new plug but I was wondering if there is a simpler workaround.

thanks! -L
__________________
________________
Lester
2019 Coachmen Crossfit
LesterGreenberg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 07:41 PM   #30
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,648
Default

I won't be helpful, I'm old school- and I work with electronics for a living and go with tried and true


I know my Hubbell is UL and CSA rated and is OEM equipment









Enjoy your project


Mike
mkguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 08:00 PM   #31
Site Team
 
avanti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,321
Default

The Smartplug is awesome and the company is first-rate. When I was installing mine, I overtightened one of the wire clamps and stripped it. Totally my fault. I emailed them and asked if I could buy a new clamp. They sent me a whole new plug assembly for free and threw in a bonus transparent plug storage cap.
__________________
Now: 2022 Fully-custom buildout (Ford Transit EcoBoost AWD)
Formerly: 2005 Airstream Interstate (Sprinter 2500 T1N)
2014 Great West Vans Legend SE (Sprinter 3500 NCV3 I4)
avanti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2020, 10:43 PM   #32
Platinum Member
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,141
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by avanti View Post
The Smartplug is awesome and the company is first-rate. When I was installing mine, I overtightened one of the wire clamps and stripped it. Totally my fault. I emailed them and asked if I could buy a new clamp. They sent me a whole new plug assembly for free and threw in a bonus transparent plug storage cap.
Before deciding to use Smart Plug I talked to the company founder, his product was still gaining traction in the boating world based on improved reliability and ease of insertion. For marine application reliability was likely the primarily selling point but for my RV easy insertion was more important. In 2013 they were very focused on the boating market and didn’t have RV cable so I had to make my own to fit an RV 30A outlet.

Since, I got their black cable with an LED indicator. It was a great company to work with. Using an aluminum junction box bolted to the hitch made my shore power connection very easy to use and reliable. Definitely would repeat my shore connection verbatim if I would be doing DIY again, but, I am not.

GeorgeRa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 01:53 AM   #33
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 82
Default

Replacing the original shoreline plug on my Roadtrek 210 with a Smartplug was an excellent upgrade. Now it's easy on/off, and it truly is a better connection - the original plug used to get unusually warm when the AC was running nearly fulltime when I was parked at my son's in FL. Same spot and conditions, and the Smartplug is not even warm.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2008 Roadtrek 210P Shoreline Receptacle Replacement.pdf (822.7 KB, 21 views)
bwatters60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 04:46 AM   #34
Platinum Member
 
GeorgeRa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,141
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwatters60 View Post
Replacing the original shoreline plug on my Roadtrek 210 with a Smartplug was an excellent upgrade. Now it's easy on/off, and it truly is a better connection - the original plug used to get unusually warm when the AC was running nearly fulltime when I was parked at my son's in FL. Same spot and conditions, and the Smartplug is not even warm.
Nice write up, did you modified your RV cable with the Smart Plug plug?
GeorgeRa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 04:53 AM   #35
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 82
Default

Yes, I modified the existing RV cable with the Smartplug. Works great.
bwatters60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 01:04 PM   #36
Platinum Member
 
Davydd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,964
Default

You don't have to modify an existing RV cable any longer as Smartplug provides the proper cable receptor for RVs for at least 4-1/2 years now. Their cable is superior to any previous RV cables I had mainly in just handling as they coil easier to put away. They appear to be better quality as well from my previous cables.
__________________
Davydd
2021 Advanced RV 144 custom Sprinter
2015 Advanced RV Extended body Sprinter
2011 Great West Van Legend Sprinter
2005 Pleasure-way Plateau TS Sprinter
Davydd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 01:15 PM   #37
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 82
Default

Maybe I misunderstood GeorgeRa's question, "did you modified your RV cable with the Smart Plug plug?". So, just to clarify, I removed the RV shoreline receptacle and the corresponding plug on my RV 30A shoreline cable, and replaced this receptacle and plug with a SmartPlug connector and non-metallic connector. So I'm still using the original 30A wire.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Smartplug.JPG (29.3 KB, 2 views)
bwatters60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 01:36 PM   #38
Platinum Member
 
Davydd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,964
Default

No, you didn't misunderstand George's question. George was an early pioneer when he bought his when only available for boats and had to modify the cable for his RV. I just mentioned you can now buy the Smartplug 30A cable you don't have to modify and I thought it was superior to my previous RV cables I had in the past. I don't know how much you save by modifying the end of an existing cable you already had.
__________________
Davydd
2021 Advanced RV 144 custom Sprinter
2015 Advanced RV Extended body Sprinter
2011 Great West Van Legend Sprinter
2005 Pleasure-way Plateau TS Sprinter
Davydd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 01:40 PM   #39
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 82
Default

Oh, I wasn't aware of the modification required on earlier SmartPlug units. Old man here, but relatively newbie (3 years) when it comes to RV'ing. Thanks for the history lesson.
bwatters60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2020, 01:53 PM   #40
Platinum Member
 
Davydd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 5,964
Default

George could be the first RV with a Smartplug in a DIY situation. I know I had the first Class B with a Smartplug from an RV manufacturer. The other major advantage is you can plug in blind with easier lining up and no twist and clamp screw on. That way if you are starting out fresh you can design the connection below the back bumper out of sight.
__________________
Davydd
2021 Advanced RV 144 custom Sprinter
2015 Advanced RV Extended body Sprinter
2011 Great West Van Legend Sprinter
2005 Pleasure-way Plateau TS Sprinter
Davydd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:11 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.