Thanks Dario (B-Plus on RV.net) I got the photos. My jacks are manual, not electric like yours. I like your idea of using angle iron. That will give me more options where to put them.
Thanks again for sending the photos.
Dario's rigs. RV's on plywood because of new 65x40 driveway
Looking at it from the pass side , seeing end of motor.
Looking from the driver side.
Notice the thickness of the angle iron? I had to increase it from 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
Notice how the top of the jack extends over the angle iron, I had a 6x8 plate welded in the middle of the angle iron to capture the whole top of the jack so I could bolt to it.
See the plate that I was talking about that I had welded on?
Top of jack attached to the welded plate
Looking from under the jack
Mark ,here is my 1st attempt with the manual jack, the plate was not thick enough it started to bow under stress.
If you look under the frame rails you will see holes already in the frame, I did not have to drill the frame,I just lined up the angle iron and drill hole to correspond to the ones in the frame.
I bought a toggle switch to raise and lower the jack, as I stated it lifts the RV right off of the ground with no strain at all. Just make sure you center the jack on the angle iron. The jack has a pretty good size footprint, and its solid as a rock when lifted. I just use it to level and I have never had to lift it all the way off the ground Rving, but it's nice to know that I could If I needed to change a tire in an emergency.
I found that the manual jackset-up that I tried 1st works, but boy did it give me a good work-out.
Good luck, if you need anymore info just let me know.
I will send you a picture of a Volt meter that Installed to monitor both the chassis and coach battery with a toggle switch.
Here is a pic of the shower door I installed in place of a curtain.