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Old 09-21-2020, 03:20 PM   #1
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Default Newbie buys old RT 200V

Greetings, I am happy to have found this forum! I just purchased a 1998 Roadtrek 200 versatile. I love a good fixer-upper and this surely fits the bill as almost nothing works!!
Towed her home as there were no brakes or exhaust. I took my chances on the unit as the price was ridiculously low., and I am pretty handy. Had new brake lines run and repaired exhaust, so now I can drive it. She runs fine. Beyond that, is somewhat of a train wreck. Here are some fun details of what I have found. It should make you all feel better about your rigs!
Generator - 235 hours- won’t start
Water pump - No workie- also leaks in lines
Holding tanks - all leaking
Cabin AC - blows hot
Microwave- No workie
3 way fridge - no good
Water heater- no good
Furnace- no good
Swivel front chairs - both broken
Rear ceiling under AC - rotten from water
Wood for bed support- rotten
Mattress - rotten and moldy
Walls- Can’t get clean with my steamer
Rear roof hatch/AC cover- leaking
Rear window- leaking.
No lo beams
No red/amber marker lights
Rides like a lead sled in the rear
Lots more issues— what fun!! Obviously, nobody ever fixed anything on this old camper. It just blows my mind.
The good news is, I’ve got new wall panels cut, fabric picked out, new water pump and lines, new cabin AC, new fridge, new microwave/air fryer combo, new carpet, 1 new bucket driver seat. I’m confident she will be fully functional and basically all new inside soon.
Oh, and the best part ? 300,000 miles!!
Chevy 3500, 5.7, 4L80E
Hope to get lots of advice and info here! TIA!
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Old 09-21-2020, 03:33 PM   #2
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Hi and Welcome

as you pick through we'll all benefit from your experience

3 way fridge, the manual is available online- you can go through and tune it up- might save you some $$$
other wise some members here have converted to a compressor fridge- which requires a complete rethink of your electrical system

a cranking non starting genny is likely a gunked up carb- they can be pulled and rebuilt- replacing is expensive at an RV shop- a "small motor" shop will have more detailed experience on small motors and probably cost less.
( the fuel pick up is usually at 1/3 tank- so you need gas in the tank!)

some of us have posted on using carb cleaner and sea foam to clean out carbs leaving them in place
the onan service manual is available online too.


I replaced my seat base foam- and serviced my swivel at same time- old solidified grease on the bearings- cleaned, lubed and fixed


chev parts: most RV's are built on previous model year chassis- you may find your 1998 RV is on a 1997 chev- need to know that when parts shopping



mike
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:06 PM   #3
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Default Re:

Thanks Mike.
I have already decommissioned the fridge and removed it. I cut it up to get it out the door, and made a real mess with the ammonia! Others should not do it the way I did.
I pulled the generator and replaced the carb and solenoid, plug and fuel filter. Must not be wired right, solenoid still not working. I suspect it will run fine.
I learned about the fuel feed when I filled the tank last week at Costco. I heard something pouring onto the ground and I instantly knew what it was. Doh, what a dipshit am I. I got a nice gasoline bath lying under the van while trying to plug the gen fuel line. Costco felt bad so they offered to send me into the store and buy me new clothes! I declined since I live right around the corner.Again, please don’t do what I did!
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:11 PM   #4
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If it has had significant water in it, you probably will need to strip the insides out of a large part of it to get rid of mold and smells. We have had similar things on from posters and it was a huge job, though.


Does it show any evidence of being submerged? There are an awful lot of stuff not working, even in a neglected RV.
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by KaptainK View Post
Again, please don’t do what I did!

if you still have your sense of humor- that's 1/2 the battle.


those are great vans and with the strip out you are bound to do for the wet, a good chance t reimagine the innards- if you have a sideways sleeper and are tall, you may want to convert layout to fore/aft sleeper-



mike
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:46 PM   #6
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Default re re

After removing the rear walls and 1 inch fiberglass insulation, it was just nice clean fiberglass body. I used the old wall panels as templates for new ones. Turned out great. The 200 Versatile is a wide body, with a full time twin bed (sideways). It is 6'8" wide, so I don't know many who couldn't sleep side to side. I did remove the under bed drawer, and turned it into an L shape so 1 can lay down and 1 or 2 can sit until you put the center cushion in to sleep.
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptainK View Post
After removing the rear walls and 1 inch fiberglass insulation, it was just nice clean fiberglass body. I used the old wall panels as templates for new ones. Turned out great. The 200 Versatile is a wide body, with a full time twin bed (sideways). It is 6'8" wide, so I don't know many who couldn't sleep side to side. I did remove the under bed drawer, and turned it into an L shape so 1 can lay down and 1 or 2 can sit until you put the center cushion in to sleep.

Welcome to the forum!


If you survive this, if your sense of humor survives this, and if your pocket book survives this, you will have gained an intimate level of knowledge of your van that few have known.

Several recent threads on Roadtrek AC replacement and other helpful areas, if you can find them in a search.

Good luck and keep us informed.
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:25 PM   #8
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I'm amazed at that list. You need to start a new thread with pics/videos as you go along. It would be amazing to watch the process of you getting this thing back in shape.
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Old 09-22-2020, 12:40 AM   #9
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Yes, that’s a great idea. I shall do that. Tonight my idler pulley seized up and took out the belt. Just finished replacing them. Turned out to be a surprisingly easy job.
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Old 09-22-2020, 02:53 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by KaptainK View Post
Yes, that’s a great idea. I shall do that. Tonight my idler pulley seized up and took out the belt. Just finished replacing them. Turned out to be a surprisingly easy job.
Congrats on your find. I have a 2000 200V that was neglected, but not nearly as bad as yours. Mine currently has 217k miles on it, it will get another 1k tomorrow and Wed heading home from motorcycle playing in AR near Mountain Home.

I might suggest also replacing the tensioner pulley, water pump and fan clutch so everything is fresh at the front of the engine.

Average Alice did an awesome write up on replacing the cabin A/C on a 200.

Have fun with your new ride.
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Old 09-28-2020, 03:58 AM   #11
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Kaptain.....you have latched onto one of the all time greats, imho.
We've had our 200 for just 20 years now.
RV only made a few of them (i've seen 1400 as "a" quantity) & then stopped production
on that model...a wild guess tells me that couldn't make enough money after putting into it what they did. We couldn't be happier with it, just the two of us....that said, #2 motor, about the 3rd or maybe 4th AC unit (didn't know the original was worth paying for to have rebuilt),couple of water pumps, (with some weird attendant problems)...swivel front seats R&R with thrust bearings...some cracks in the fiberglass body (which, I think makes it an "A" Class (its a fiberglass body designed & build to RT specs by a truck body co in Buffalo NY whos' name escapes me right now... so, long story short....you've got a winner that is gonna require a bit of R & R to be happily on the road...I wish you well.....if you give me contact info, Ill call/email you direct.
GPDC
Central NY
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Old 09-28-2020, 05:06 AM   #12
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That's great. I really don't see many 200's on the forums, that must be why. Sure, I'd love to chat with you. Thanks!
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Old 09-28-2020, 10:38 PM   #13
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Default Soon to be Classic

Welcome to the forum. You have a soon to be classic. (age 25) Sounds like you have a lot of restoration work ahead. But if it is something you are enjoying you will end up with a rare, IMHO, classic.

I have a 1998 190 Rt and was fortunate to have purchased it ten years ago in great condition inside and out. It is on a Dodge 3500 and had 95k miles when I got it. Two previous owners that took care of the rv and both lived on the West coast so no rust and winter problems. Have replaced transmission, engine battery, and tires.

We are both owners of a Class B with beautiful lines that are fast becoming rare to see on the road. Like seeing a classic car that you can name the make, model, and year from a distance. Again welcome and I will be following your ventures as you restore the Rt 200. I will learn some things that may be useful later. Bob
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Old 09-29-2020, 01:02 AM   #14
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Sounds like you have a project in the making but should have a great rig when finished customizing it to your liking. Ive got a 2001 200 Versatile and I love it. Lots of little quirks with 20 year old RV minor leaks and always something to tweek but great machines. Good luck
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Old 09-29-2020, 05:59 PM   #15
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Well, we have a RoadTrek 1998 190 Popular! less than 84k miles. We are having it worked on (engine, internal stuff) in preparation to selling. It seems our Roadie is in much better shape, but then it will likely bring more $$ than you paid! It is good to know there are handy people out there happy to deal with older models. Thank you for your detailed description - hope all turns out well.
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Old 09-29-2020, 06:24 PM   #16
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Well, we have a RoadTrek 1998 190 Popular! less than 84k miles. We are having it worked on (engine, internal stuff) in preparation to selling. It seems our Roadie is in much better shape, but then it will likely bring more $$ than you paid! It is good to know there are handy people out there happy to deal with older models. Thank you for your detailed description - hope all turns out well.

What internal engine work did it need at only 84K miles?
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:05 PM   #17
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Default engine work

Since our RT has hardly been driven for the last couple of years, we plan to have the engine looked at, although it runs fine, and recently passed its emissions test. Here in Colorado there is unlikely to be any rust issues, so we await a mechanical verdict. Can't predict belt deterioration. Transmission works fine, so we hope no issues there.
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Old 09-29-2020, 07:11 PM   #18
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Since our RT has hardly been driven for the last couple of years, we plan to have the engine looked at, although it runs fine, and recently passed its emissions test. Here in Colorado there is unlikely to be any rust issues, so we await a mechanical verdict. Can't predict belt deterioration. Transmission works fine, so we hope no issues there.

When I hear engine internal work, I think of the real internal parts like pistons, cranks, cam type hard parts and on the Dodges those rarely would have issues that early. It sounds like this is not those kind of issues.
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Old 09-29-2020, 08:00 PM   #19
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Default thank you

Many thanks, I value your experienced opinion. We had a reliable, independent mechanic when we lived in Massachusetts, but have not had much luck here in Colorado, although I now have a recommendation for a reliable independent mechanic to try soon. I have been worrying about unknowns waiting to pounce on my wallet!
Valerie
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Old 01-27-2021, 01:28 PM   #20
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Default Sharing window leak tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptainK View Post
Greetings, I am happy to have found this forum! I just purchased a 1998 Roadtrek 200 versatile. I love a good fixer-upper and this surely fits the bill as almost nothing works!!
Towed her home as there were no brakes or exhaust. I took my chances on the unit as the price was ridiculously low., and I am pretty handy. Had new brake lines run and repaired exhaust, so now I can drive it. She runs fine. Beyond that, is somewhat of a train wreck. Here are some fun details of what I have found. It should make you all feel better about your rigs!
Generator - 235 hours- won’t start
Water pump - No workie- also leaks in lines
Holding tanks - all leaking
Cabin AC - blows hot
Microwave- No workie
3 way fridge - no good
Water heater- no good
Furnace- no good
Swivel front chairs - both broken
Rear ceiling under AC - rotten from water
Wood for bed support- rotten
Mattress - rotten and moldy
Walls- Can’t get clean with my steamer
Rear roof hatch/AC cover- leaking
Rear window- leaking.
No lo beams
No red/amber marker lights
Rides like a lead sled in the rear
Lots more issues— what fun!! Obviously, nobody ever fixed anything on this old camper. It just blows my mind.
The good news is, I’ve got new wall panels cut, fabric picked out, new water pump and lines, new cabin AC, new fridge, new microwave/air fryer combo, new carpet, 1 new bucket driver seat. I’m confident she will be fully functional and basically all new inside soon.
Oh, and the best part ? 300,000 miles!!
Chevy 3500, 5.7, 4L80E
Hope to get lots of advice and info here! TIA!
We bought nearly the identical RT (ours is year 2000 with the 7 liter Chevy engine), and virtually every window has leaked in some way, but especially the rear one (hence we had to re-build the entire rear bed platform due to rot). Do you have the CRL windows also? I've seen the videos about the "recommended" repair for that back window being pulling the entire unit and replacing the butyl, but I didn't see any butyl on ours. I had a part-time mobile RV glass guy work on the weatherstrip, which did help...he tore out the older compressed black stuff and replaced it with somewhat thicker. But ours continued to leak in the wrong situations. My final solution which has really worked well was to get some sturdy exterior-rated vinyl fabric in black, and make a nice-looking cap for the top hinge that goes all along the top of the window, attached to the body above the window with VHB trim tape, and the lowest edge attaches to the glass (I folded that edge to make it look fancy with no frayed edges). It looks like of like a leather cap now and not like Gorilla tape. If this solution ever rots from sun exposure which I think it eventually will, I might cut that one off and just put a new one on. As to the seal between the window frame and the fiberglass body, just used Silco clear RTV silicone which is good stuff.
Note, our window had at least 3-4 holes drilled in the window frame edge by previous repair people which were allowing water in. I just filled those with the Silco after a thorough chemical cleaning.
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