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Old 11-27-2017, 01:17 AM   #1
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Default Adjust LP Gas Pressure to Refrigerator?

I am having trouble lighting the gas side of my refrigerator. I purchased and connected a pressure gauge and discovered the gas pressure is 9" of water column, whereas 11" is recommended. Is this enough of a differential to make a difference?

If so, how does one adjust the pressure? The regulator seems to be covered with a shield that is designed not to be removed, although I could if you deem it truly necessary. Even if I can access the regulator, how is the pressure setting changed? What do I turn and what direction?

In addition, I discovered that the refrigerator accidentally lit during the testing process. During the pressure testing, I turned the thermostat to the maximum cooling position per testing instructions. I accidentally pushed the piezo button while pushing the gas button and the refrigerator inadvertent lit! Before the testing, the refrigerator was turned down to only about 3.5 out of 10. It was at this 3.5 setting where I thought I was having problems, as I tried multiple times over a series of days to light the refrigerator, thinking that it somehow malfunctioned. Prior to this, I have had no problems with the refrigerator. Hence, the question, "Is it standard procedure to turn the thermostat to maximum cooling to light the gas side of the unit?" And is the lower than recommended pressure a problem?

Your thoughts will be appreciated!
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Old 11-27-2017, 12:29 PM   #2
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I recall removing a dust cap on the regulator then adjusting the screw clockwise to increase pressure. The dust caps are often blue or black.

There are only two flame settings with the older fridge in my van; normal or bypass. Bypass is like a pilot light. When the gas pressure was low the bypass flame would extinguish and therefor prevent normal mode operation when requested by the thermostat.
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Old 11-27-2017, 09:43 PM   #3
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How old is your rig? How old is your main (primary) regulator? I needed to replace mine (primary) this spring. They are only 20 bucks.
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:34 PM   #4
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How old is your rig? How old is your main (primary) regulator? I needed to replace mine (primary) this spring. They are only 20 bucks.
The rig is 20 and the fridge is a bit older. I'll get around to replacing the regulator someday but it works OK now. At 11" WC the flame doesn't go out when in bypass mode.
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Old 11-28-2017, 12:38 AM   #5
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The packaging on a new regulator says it should be replaced every 10 years. The weak point is the rubber diaphragm which deteriorates. The concern is propane leakage through a cracked diaphragm causing a fire hazard. The fact that has changed it's adjustment point is reason enough to change it considering it's age.
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:09 AM   #6
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The coach body is 2004. Is it a special regulator? Are there different types or sizes? Naturally, being a camper van, the regulator is in a very inaccessible place, but replacement is probably doable. It is covered by a shield that is not designed to be removed (riveted on) so I cannot easily observe it.

Thanks for the information.
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Old 11-28-2017, 02:59 PM   #7
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If it is a 2004 Roadtrek you will have to bend over on this one. The tank has to be removed, not too difficult but better if it is empty.

Remove the propane line at the right rear corner of the van then four bolts drops it.

Replace both regulators, remove the rust and repaint the tank. The regulator is difficult to adjust, installed, but can be done if you leave the dust cover off. I did not replace the barbeque regulator. Have fun and don't blow yourself up.
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Old 06-14-2018, 11:00 PM   #8
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If it is a 2004 Roadtrek you will have to bend over on this one. The tank has to be removed, not too difficult but better if it is empty.

Remove the propane line at the right rear corner of the van then four bolts drops it.
so, i have a 2004 roadtrek 190 popular - and i want to replace the regulator - can someone tell me which model regulator i need to buy? i hadn't realized until just now when i checked that i cannot even see the regulator through the opening used to turn the valve on and fill the tank. so i will plan on dropping the tank as has been described but not until getting the replacement regulator.
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:57 AM   #9
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Marshall Excelsior is the original brand and still available. The camping world knockoff has a slightly different mounting bolt pattern. Get the original brand and it will bolt right on the mount. Replace the hose if it is over 10 years old.
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:36 PM   #10
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Marshall Excelsior is the original brand and still available. The camping world knockoff has a slightly different mounting bolt pattern. Get the original brand and it will bolt right on the mount. Replace the hose if it is over 10 years old.
So I just replaced the regulator on my 2004 Roadtrek 190P. And it was one giant PITA! Good thing I had my son helping - it definitely required his help. The one big snag we ran into was that it's not just the copper gas line that has to be disconnected, we also had the wire for the sensor in the way. And I could not see how to disconnect it. So all in all it took us a couple of hours to get it done all the time trying real hard not to stretch that sensor wiring.
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Old 09-03-2018, 02:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
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So I just replaced the regulator on my 2004 Roadtrek 190P. And it was one giant PITA! Good thing I had my son helping - it definitely required his help. The one big snag we ran into was that it's not just the copper gas line that has to be disconnected, we also had the wire for the sensor in the way. And I could not see how to disconnect it. So all in all it took us a couple of hours to get it done all the time trying real hard not to stretch that sensor wiring.
thanks for the info, do you have a model number on that Marshall Excelsior regulator?
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:02 PM   #12
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I have read that you can replace a regulator in a 2004 Roadtrek C190P by dropping the trailer hitch. Not sure if this saves you much trouble though.

Adjusting the regulator is difficult. If you know what kind of tool you need you can insert it and adjust by hand. An inspection camera is a big help as you can look into it and see what kind of tool you need to adjust.

Low gas pressure defintely causes refrigerator problems. Donít ask me how I know
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:47 PM   #13
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Just went through a bunch of issues with an old Dometic 2310. You don't mention make/model. On mine Dometic was very specific with regard to the
gas pressure.

"The LP gas pressure to the refrigerator should be 11 inches water column with
half of all BTU's of the RV turned on. With all other appliances turned off, the pressure to the refrigerator should not exceed 12 inches water column."

The first sentence of that suggests that the pressure should not dip below 11" when you are using other LP appliances....in my case, stove, water heater, furnace. I'm guessing they say "half" since there won't be many times when all 3 of those other appliances are in use, drawing LP, at the same time.

Somewhere, your model fridge should have similar specs stated.
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:03 PM   #14
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Im just looking for the model number of the Marshall Excelsior regulator for the 2004 RT 190p. if anybody happens to know. thank you
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Old 09-04-2018, 12:14 PM   #15
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thanks for the info, do you have a model number on that Marshall Excelsior regulator?
MEGR-298 is the one I got from Amazon.
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Old 09-04-2018, 12:22 PM   #16
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thank you. an RV repair guy was trying to sell me a single stage generic. not sure if that would work or not, but i would prefer to get the one you got since we know it works. and we know how difficult this is to replace.
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