Dometic vent installation instructions PDF file from 1997 here:
According to it my fridge shouldn't work well
................ but it does.
I don't have a top baffle a.k.a turning vane.
I don't have the bottom baffle.
I don't have a fan.
My clearance "D" is about 5 inches instead of 1".
The guy who built my van and installed the fridge owned a refrigeration company so maybe his years of experience came into play with the installation.
Makes me think other things should always be checked along with ventilation.
1. Venting and installation
2. Thermistor, thermistor adjuster and position of the thermistor on "newer" fridges
3. Thermostat and capillary tube in manual fridges like my 15 year old RM2410
4. Door seal "dollar bill" test
5. AC heating element amp draw meets specification
6. AC heating element ohm test meets specification
7. DC amp draw meets specification
8. Burner, burner orifice, flue baffle annual cleaning
9. Cooling unit
Diagnosing a cooling unit from: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Mandiag.pdf
After the unit has been operating for approximately one hour, carefully touch the unit at the boiler box and the absorber area. These areas should be approximately the same temperature, regardless of the ambient temperature. Equal heat between the boiler and the absorber indicates the fluid circulation within the unit is good.
One of the faults with a cooling unit is a blockage. This can happen when the unit is operated off-level, or if too much heat has been applied to the boiler area. To the touch, this unit will be extremely hot at the boiler with little warmth at the absorber. In other words, no circulation.
I wonder how well my fridge would work in really hot temperatures down south? I could see one or two fans mounted to the upper exhaust vent helping in that situation.
http://rvmobile.com/wb/default.asp?acti ... 2988&fid=2