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Old 04-29-2021, 12:59 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by peteco View Post
Booster, a while ago we had talked about using our Ctek 7002 chargers on a regular basis (every 1-2 months) to fully charge our car batteries. Before the Ctek I used a Battery minder regularly. I got 10 years out of the original battery in my Camry
I think this goes a long way to minimizing sulfation.

I would certainly think you are correct. IIRC, the battery minder has a bit of profile to it with higher voltage when current has been maxed do to low battery, so that is good.


What it is likely addressing is that most vehicles used for basic transportation never really get the batteries near full. I have monitored ours and they are consistently at 12.4-12.5v except in the winter when may be even lower by a bit.


Even a float charge for long periods is going to help prevent sulffation, so that is probably what goes on in your case. Any lead sulfate that isn't converted to lead and sulpheric acid will eventually turn to hardened built up sulfate and flake off, from all I have seen reading about it all. Even at float, some charging is usually going on if the batteries aren't full.
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Old 04-29-2021, 04:47 AM   #22
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FWIW, I had a Walmart Max made by Johnson Controls that I kept a Battery Tender Jr. hooked to when the car was not being driven. It was 11 1/2 years old when it started to fail to take a charge.

Also, a friend who works at Auto Zone told me they no longer sell Interstate batteries because of the failure rate.
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Old 04-29-2021, 12:25 PM   #23
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I did some quick searching on the Interstate quality issues and it appears that it likely a big problem. They are roundly blasted as being going downhill in quality since 2019 when they started phasing in Exide made batteries to replace the Johnson Controls made batteries. The places I saw were vehicle based forums mostly and also Bob is the Oil Guy, so shouldn't have any sales bias or such I would think.


I think Walmart still has Johnson Control make their batteries. NAPA is said to be East Penn and good.
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Old 04-30-2021, 12:40 AM   #24
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FWIW, I had a Walmart Max made by Johnson Controls that I kept a Battery Tender Jr. hooked to when the car was not being driven. It was 11 1/2 years old when it started to fail to take a charge.

Also, a friend who works at Auto Zone told me they no longer sell Interstate batteries because of the failure rate.
I'm sorry, I misstated, my friend who works for Auto Zone said the main battery warehouse in his town are the ones who have stopped carrying the Interstate Batteries because of quality issues.
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Old 04-30-2021, 07:13 PM   #25
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When it comes to batteries I would be skeptical of any anecdotal claims about poor quality. Batteries are easy to abuse and blaming the manufacturer when one fails is an easy explanation. People will repeatedly draw a battery bank down to 80% based on crude measurements of charge level and then complain when it fails early.

Given how stuff is sourced these days, its hard to really know who the manufacturer is. The same battery can be branded under different names and the same brand can include batteries from different actual manufacturers.
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Old 05-04-2021, 03:45 AM   #26
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please put me in with the willing to learning crowd.....
that said, I just put a Leoch grp27 size battery (XP-12-350FR) in my '98 RoadTrek...Versitile 200 (stock house battery is group 24)...that battery has the internally threaded (6mm x 1) "posts" (no standing posts) that I wanted to get some additional vertical clearance.....
SO.....it's an AGM battery & I want to treat it kindly.....
existing converters' charger is a Magnatek 6345 with the battery charger optional circuitry....it's probably more than 20 years old.......
how do I take care of this new battery?
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Old 05-04-2021, 12:04 PM   #27
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please put me in with the willing to learning crowd.....
that said, I just put a Leoch grp27 size battery (XP-12-350FR) in my '98 RoadTrek...Versitile 200 (stock house battery is group 24)...that battery has the internally threaded (6mm x 1) "posts" (no standing posts) that I wanted to get some additional vertical clearance.....
SO.....it's an AGM battery & I want to treat it kindly.....
existing converters' charger is a Magnatek 6345 with the battery charger optional circuitry....it's probably more than 20 years old.......
how do I take care of this new battery?
I replaced the converter charger with a Progressive Dynamics 4645, available from Best Converters. They have/had them on Amazon but there were reports of some from there with no serial numbers, likely counterfeit so no warranty.

While not necessarily the very best unit out there it installs easily in the same case, provides decent multi stage charging, has filtering for all 12 volt circuits, and a reasonable cost.

I installed one and used it for over six years before selling our RT. Our last battery was a cheapo group 27 "deep cycle" Maxx from Wally World that was still performing well after ten months of boondocking spread over 2.5 years.

https://www.bestconverter.com/Upgrad...llax_c_64.html

Enjoy your '98 Versatile, we put over 100k miles on our 2000 200 Versatile and sold it at 221k miles, still performing well.
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Old 05-04-2021, 12:40 PM   #28
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Steve....so I'll take your comments as an atta-boy for both best converter & the PD units they sell....did you upgrade or install a new unit?.....I sent them a RFI (request for information) & they must be very busy.......
Over the years (17 & counting) we've had this RV, mysterious battery demises have occured...that said, this past winter I READ THE BOOK (!) & found RTs' instruction to switch the cabin master switch on BEFORE adding shore power when I put it up for the winter....that & a battery minder/cigarette light adapter for maintaining the vehicles' starting battery will be used this fall....we'll see how that goes.... VOM testing last night seems to bear all that out
Does anybody can a correlation between % of battery power and actual voltage observed on a digital VOM?....& further....when someone uses that % figure, are they talkng about power used or power remaining left in the battery?...thanks in advance for any replies.....
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Old 05-04-2021, 02:06 PM   #29
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Speaking of battery charging, I have a 2018 Ridgeline and use a scan gauge to monitor several options. One is the charging system. While driving on the highway for a period of time I notice that the voltage shows 14.3v for a period of time and then drops to 12.5v for some time. Had Honda check alternator and it was fine. I guess when the battery is fully charged the alternator is disconnected from charging for better mileage?
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Old 05-04-2021, 04:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gpdc View Post
please put me in with the willing to learning crowd.....
that said, I just put a Leoch grp27 size battery (XP-12-350FR) in my '98 RoadTrek...Versitile 200 (stock house battery is group 24)...that battery has the internally threaded (6mm x 1) "posts" (no standing posts) that I wanted to get some additional vertical clearance.....
SO.....it's an AGM battery & I want to treat it kindly.....
existing converters' charger is a Magnatek 6345 with the battery charger optional circuitry....it's probably more than 20 years old.......
how do I take care of this new battery?
I think that most will say you Must do something about that AGM vs wet cell battery charging. You have various options, from simplest to lots of $'s.

Simple, you can simply change out the charger only yourself. The End, good value maybe. Or both Converter and Charger, interter/charger, or...... Enjoy deciding.

A guess concerning booster's question my only be on the applicance itself.

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Old 05-04-2021, 11:01 PM   #31
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Bud...thank you for the input....leaning toward changing out the complete unit....gotta take it out to see the burn spot bestconverter has mentioned...I've heard that fan running...& If I take that unit out, I'm putting in a new one, period....
Mr Mloganusda.....I installed a (in the bedroom) digital volt meter in our RV & along with the (dash mount) AutoScan unit & I get it that anything above 12.9 0r 13.0 volts represents a charge coming from somewhere......AND the NON charging voltage is gonna be more like 12.7...AFTER the battery "rests" after charging.........
FWIW.....I've a HF battery load tester that accepts a 100 amp (so they say) load across an internal resistor bank.....the test is where the analog meter needle sits after 10 seconds....and I just happened to have several batteries on the bench at the same time, all intermittently connected to some various chargers/maintainers that I have... & you can't make a silk purse from a sows ear.....
'
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Old Yesterday, 01:58 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by gpdc View Post
Steve....so I'll take your comments as an atta-boy for both best converter & the PD units they sell....did you upgrade or install a new unit?.....I sent them a RFI (request for information) & they must be very busy.......
Over the years (17 & counting) we've had this RV, mysterious battery demises have occured...that said, this past winter I READ THE BOOK (!) & found RTs' instruction to switch the cabin master switch on BEFORE adding shore power when I put it up for the winter....that & a battery minder/cigarette light adapter for maintaining the vehicles' starting battery will be used this fall....we'll see how that goes.... VOM testing last night seems to bear all that out
Does anybody can a correlation between % of battery power and actual voltage observed on a digital VOM?....& further....when someone uses that % figure, are they talkng about power used or power remaining left in the battery?...thanks in advance for any replies.....
The 4600 series replaces the 12 volt fuse panel and the charger inside the original housing. No need to remove the housing.

Chart for battery condition adjusting for temperature. I believe it is for flooded lead acid batteries.

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Old Yesterday, 02:07 PM   #33
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Figuring SOC based on voltage van be done, but not very accurate even in the best case. It varies by brand, model, style, and age so lots of variables there, plus it is only correct when there is no load on them and they are rested for a couple of hours. You have to learn your batteries by doing a repeated rested test or check specific gravity.


Others here and always in the days before monitors, campers got to be able to tell by voltage and what is on for loads about where they are at for battery capacity left. Not precise for sure, but with practice can make for a usable method. Some people will be good at it and others not so much, so pretty variable between users. The learning curve will likely include a few times of running low on capacity but that is about the only way to know when voltage relates to that point.
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Old Yesterday, 02:09 PM   #34
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Thank you!
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