bunch of ?s on my 1st RV

[TX-Trek]

Since my last post the vans off the stands, brake/hub work done, it's now up on the ramps. Plenty of space to do oil changes, steering parts, and in my case a transmission fluid/filter change. In regards to the ramps, it's very solid, and I've still got a couple jackstands under the front frame crossmember just in case.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Since my last post the vans off the stands, brake/hub work done, it's now up on the ramps. Plenty of space to do oil changes, steering parts, and in my case a transmission fluid/filter change. In regards to the ramps, it's very solid, and I've still got a couple jackstands under the front frame crossmember just in case.

good deal on the maintenance where your front brakes worn out, and you just did hubs since you had the front stuff off? how many miles on your RV?

I just watched a rear end fluid change video almost 4 quarts is alot of fluid. when you do rear end do you use just ramps? and doe's this rear end require posie limited slip additive I call it whale sperm?

my house battery is at 11.7 Volts DC I leave on couple more hours.



the PW house battery has apparently 4 cables looks like 3 reds positive (2 thin 1 thick) and 1 black negative (thick).
where are these cables connected to inside?

edit: my 03 1500s trans pan has a drain plug 1st I've sean on a GM. doe's the 04 have a plug for transmision?
also I assume the fluid is dexron3 or newer? and how many quarts?
thanks

[THEBRAIN]

Update bad news 1st after reconditioning house battery for 9 hours straight it’s at
11.8 Volts DC I assume it it where tested on a load tester it would be bad.
Good news is I believe it’s still under the 30 month warrenty. The lable has 1 & sep
Highlighted as manufactor date. I inturpid 1 as 2021 & sep as September. This battery
Is only one year & one month old. I didn’t see the usalle small round lable w/ month
& year.
Since I didn’t purchase this battery where do I take it back for replacement?
The interstate video says your dealer. What do you Guys think will they replace this battery?
I received the title today I thought she was a 04 title says 05. I googled the previous owners name.
I have her address & phone # and a bit of her history which includes her buying a van
And taking off from Mass. Heading South.I may contact her later for some history.

[mkguitar]

you may find that in many cases PW marks a black jacketed negative cable with white tape.



the negative ( chassis ground) cable from the ac/dc converter is white


don't screw around with a dead battery, go to costco. the interstate lasted me 6 years, when it started to become a drag on teh charging system I replaced it

[THEBRAIN]

OK so there's 2 white wrapped which are negatives
and 2 marked w/ red at end of cables?

yes I'm a costco memeber however they will insist on looking up my name.

w/ a dealer I can mention POs name.thanks

[TX-Trek]

Suggestion - this doesn't apply to the coach side of the vehicle, but for your questions on the van itself, you may want to look into an online shop/service manual.

I've used this one with great results on our van. I did the 3 year access for something around $45 total, worth every penny.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

It (or your choice of an equivalent source) will provide service data and how-to's on many of the maintenance/repair items you will encounter.

[booster]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Suggestion - this doesn't apply to the coach side of the vehicle, but for your questions on the van itself, you may want to look into an online shop/service manual.

I've used this one with great results on our van. I did the 3 year access for something around $45 total, worth every penny.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

It (or your choice of an equivalent source) will provide service data and how-to's on many of the maintenance/repair items you will encounter.

You can also get the factory service manual on ebay, often, but not always, quite reasonably. The GM manual for the vans, at least in 07 for ours, is three volumes that are about 2" thick. Amazingly thorough but as it is with all big manuals, sometimes a bit hard to find the right sections, especially for electrical things.

[mkguitar]

yes, the 2 reds should be +


you will have voltage coming from battery isolator if you start the motor


don't be like the lady on another forum who removed battery, left the cables hanging loose, drove the van and wondered why she has electrical problems

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Suggestion - this doesn't apply to the coach side of the vehicle, but for your questions on the van itself, you may want to look into an online shop/service manual.

I've used this one with great results on our van. I did the 3 year access for something around $45 total, worth every penny.
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

It (or your choice of an equivalent source) will provide service data and how-to's on many of the maintenance/repair items you will encounter.

yes I'd like a repair shop type manuel, w/ included step by step repair procedures
not a haynes book that includes differnt year models w/ completely differnt engines. thanks

Originally Posted by booster

You can also get the factory service manual on ebay, often, but not always, quite reasonably. The GM manual for the vans, at least in 07 for ours, is three volumes that are about 2" thick. Amazingly thorough but as it is with all big manuals, sometimes a bit hard to find the right sections, especially for electrical things.

I'll be on the look out for a shop manuel thanks

Originally Posted by mkguitar

yes, the 2 reds should be +


you will have voltage coming from battery isolator if you start the motor


don't be like the lady on another forum who removed battery, left the cables hanging loose, drove the van and wondered why she has electrical problems

yes Mike you right again the 2 white wrapped where grounds I buzzed them out to the body of van.
and yes the terminals are covered w/ 3m electrical tape.

Current house battery won’t hold charge,needs replacing mite test w/ boats deep cycle group 27.
Holding off on purchasing new van battery.
Plan to use shore power to test appliances. Concerned about blowing house hold fuse’s.

Like isn’t 30amps a lot for a regular fussed fuse box 120V AC wall socket?
I don’t want to blow any HH fuses.
The cord I have has a 120 V AC adaptor is this only for breakered circuits?

I do have breakers for the 220 VAC oven is hardwired so is centrel AC & heat.

I can unplug my cloths dryers 220 V AC I installed the 220V AC outlet however the male prongs are different than vans.
Thanks Guys for any tips on shore power.

[mkguitar]

My van is plugged into my household 15 amp circuit at home... I just don't try to use the air conditioning.
( I do have a 20A circuit for hot tub- if I unplug that I can run the a/c in the van along with other stuff...but not the microwave.



It's not worth the expense to crawl the length of the whole house for a 30A box when I really don't need it.








The GM shop manual for my pick up covers 80% of the van... to tell you the truth I use youtube for real world work arounds for stuck fasteners, tips, tricks & short cuts ... I rarely bother with shop manual anymore

[TX-Trek]

Lucky we can keep the van garaged at home. I plug into a 110v GFCI outlet to charge batteries and for lighting inside if needed. Another benefit is that I can also run the fridge overnight before leaving on a trip. No AC , too much load.

A tip if you plug into a 110v and the GFCI trips - turn on the inverter first. I think MK or Booster can explain better but I believe it has to do with the van not being grounded to earth. Tires insulate it. The GFCI sees this as a fault and trips. Turning the inverter on changes "something" (better explanation needed), and GFCI won't trip. Zero problems with this, I've used this method for several years now.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

My van is plugged into my household 15 amp circuit at home... I just don't try to use the air conditioning.
( I do have a 20A circuit for hot tub- if I unplug that I can run the a/c in the van along with other stuff...but not the microwave.



It's not worth the expense to crawl the length of the whole house for a 30A box when I really don't need it.

OK no AC or microwave testing w/ shore power.

priority is generator can I start the generator w/ shore power connected to regular house hold 120Volt AC not sure of the amps circuit.
I don't use microwave anyway, would like to swap for a toaster oven.

I have 2 fuse boxs one inside the small builtin house utility room for 120 volts AC, other fuse box 220V AC is outside. both are relatively close to driveway maybe 15'.Thanks

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Lucky we can keep the van garaged at home. I plug into a 110v GFCI outlet to charge batteries (you have more than 1 house battery?) and for lighting inside if needed. Another benefit is that I can also run the fridge overnight before leaving on a trip.(i've read that ppl put a gallon of frozon water inside frieg day before trip then rotate ice jugs during the trip) No AC , too much load.

A tip if you plug into a 110v and the GFCI trips - turn on the inverter first.
not sure what the inverter is are you referring to a DC to AC inverter?not sure where inverter is located maybe behind TV?)
I think MK or Booster can explain better but I believe it has to do with the van not being grounded to earth. Tires insulate it. The GFCI sees this as a fault and trips. Turning the inverter on changes "something" (better explanation needed), and GFCI won't trip. Zero problems with this, I've used this method for several years now.

I don't have this type 110v GFCI I have sean this type plug in hotels near bathroom vanity's. I watch some vids on how to install. other responses in bold above. thanks

edit I boogered up the house battery storage bins lid where the lock is attached.
I've measured the threads of lock to be 5/8" wide.
I was thinking of using a washer to attach the lock however this would move the locks lever outward by around 1/4".

didn't see any longer locks are longer locks available?
mite be able to expoxy a washer on inside and outside of damage any suggestions is appreciated.

[mkguitar]

you likely have a GFCI in the head. controls the head, galley and outside outlets

your 220 at the house is of no use unless you have an electrician adapt it for 120 volt use.
( unless you want to see your van light up like a xmas tree for 1/2 a second and then collapse into a pile pf ashes )

the van runs on 120 volt

the genny/ shore power is one or the other.
not both
there is an automatic transfer switch

there is NO inverter- unless a previous owner added one

as far as "ground" ( "tires insulating") there is a ground wire and a neutral, on your shore power cable which is how the 120 volt system is grounded when on shore power.
when you are driving the battery negative is how the electrons complete flow from positive to switch to load to battery again.


that's alot of rust on that lock... you can replace on amazon, plenty of options
maybe these check measurements https://www.amazon.com/LATCH-Storage...-2-spons&psc=1

[TX-Trek]

Mike, thanks. I called it an inverter , its the usual Tripp Lite inverter/charger (transfer switch?) you see in these Roadtreks. All works very well. The van also has an electrical management system unit right at the 30a entry to the coach, has surge protection and display of voltage, amperage, error codes etc.

TB, yes the van has 2 wet cell 6v batteries for the coach. I have also replaced the original Sure Power battery separator under the hood with a Blue Sea 7622 auto matching relay with additional manual control. Good improvement and allows me to manually isolate or connect engine and coach batteries if circumstances warrant.
the Tripp Lite is under the passenger side bed just in front of the rear wheel well. Also in there is the coach battery connect relay, not to be confused with the Blue Sea relay under the hood.

[mkguitar]

Trying to keep it simple for him- he has a 2004 Pleasure Way Lexor TS which should have ( unless an owner changed) an Intellipower ac/dc converter.


the auto-transfer switch is separate
( both likely under the sofa)



he should have a Sure Power 16023A isolator ( under the hood)



and room for a single group 27 deep cycle in his compartment.

[ChicagoTom]

Long string here, so I'm not sure if it was answered. I too was concerned about the propane rust when I first got my used 2008 Chevy Lexor TS. I had a stuck open valve, brought it to AmeriGas and was fortunate to meet the Yard Master (40+ years in the business) I asked him how long the tank would last and his reply "Forever". No they do not need to be re-certified, at least not in the USA. My awning crank is snapped into a holder by the rear doors and that's also where the red key is. If you can remove the key, then that means the house battery is disconnected. The only thing that is bypassed is the power sofa for safety reasons. If you have the key on, and you have a battery, you can try running the chassis and see if it's charging. Your battery and monitors are right above the side entrance door. If you're trying to start the generator, once you have gas, it's best to start the chassis. It gives the battery a boost, and that in turn gives the generator starting a boost.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

you likely have a GFCI in the head. controls the head, galley and outside outlets

yes correct I have the GFCI type AC outlet only in bathroom TV,galley & outside are just regular outlets w/out the reset button I thought the homes power outlet needed to be the GFCI protection outlet?

the van runs on 120 volt the size of these extension cords threw me for a curve

the genny/ shore power is one or the other.
not both so I can't start the generator w/ shore power then switch to generator? if yes the only way to start generator is w/ full charged house battery?
there is an automatic transfer switch I saw the intelli power box stuffed way under the sofa you wrote of earlier of

there is NO inverter- unless a previous owner added one haven't sean one yet I was under the impression it's more desirable to have as much stuff powered by 12Volts DC bc of the lose w/ the conversion

as far as "ground" ( "tires insulating") there is a ground wire and a neutral, on your shore power cable which is how the 120 volt system is grounded when on shore power.
when you are driving the battery negative is how the electrons complete flow from positive to switch to load to battery again.


that's alot of rust on that lock... you can replace on amazon, plenty of options
maybe these check measurements https://www.amazon.com/LATCH-Storage...-2-spons&psc=1

yes that lock was the worst I intend on replaceing all but the outside shower & fresh water tank refill. I bet they where replaced bc of the differnt key. the lock you link to appears longer. these locks are sized by the width of threads corect? mine appears 5/8 wide.soaking it in wd40 to dissassmble and mearsure it's lenght.
Mike what do you think of a washer on outside of door compared to washers down inside the insert see the lock is receased in lid.
thanks Mike for excellent advice.

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

Mike, thanks. I called it an inverter , its the usual Tripp Lite inverter/charger (transfer switch?) you see in these Roadtreks. All works very well. The van also has an electrical management system unit right at the 30a entry to the coach, has surge protection and display of voltage, amperage, error codes etc.

TB, yes the van has 2 wet cell 6v batteries for the coach. I have also replaced the original Sure Power battery separator under the hood with a Blue Sea 7622 auto matching relay with additional manual control. Good improvement and allows me to manually isolate or connect engine and coach batteries if circumstances warrant.
the Tripp Lite is under the passenger side bed just in front of the rear wheel well. Also in there is the coach battery connect relay, not to be confused with the Blue Sea relay under the hood.

are the 2 6 Volt DC batterys inside the van? I thought the RTs stow house batteries on pass side near the bumper an requires a screwdriver to access. thanks

Originally Posted by mkguitar

Trying to keep it simple for him- he has a 2004 Pleasure Way Lexor TS which should have ( unless an owner changed) an Intellipower ac/dc converter. yes I have intellipower under sofa


the auto-transfer switch is separate
( both likely under the sofa)



he should have a Sure Power 16023A isolator ( under the hood) yes I have isolator on firewall of engine area it's blue



and room for a single group 27 deep cycle in his compartment.

yes that bin won't fit anything bigger than group 27. thanks alot Mike for advice.

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

Long string here, so I'm not sure if it was answered. I too was concerned about the propane rust when I first got my used 2008 Chevy Lexor TS. I had a stuck open valve, brought it to AmeriGas and was fortunate to meet the Yard Master (40+ years in the business) I asked him how long the tank would last and his reply "Forever". No they do not need to be re-certified, at least not in the USA. My awning crank is snapped into a holder by the rear doors and that's also where the red key is. If you can remove the key, then that means the house battery is disconnected. The only thing that is bypassed is the power sofa for safety reasons. If you have the key on, and you have a battery, you can try running the chassis and see if it's charging. Your battery and monitors are right above the side entrance door. If you're trying to start the generator, once you have gas, it's best to start the chassis. It gives the battery a boost, and that in turn gives the generator starting a boost.

thats a good thing the propane tanks do not need to be re-certified.I've read the LP gas is very smelly so it's obvious if there's a leak.and soapie water can detect where it's bubbling it the leak.
excellent was wondering why the sofa was powered w/out a house battery.

thanks for tips on starting generator w/ starting vans engine first.

I was hopping I could start generator w/ shore power then switch to generator.

edit: please post image of your awning wrench.I was thinking a bottle jack wrench would work?
the rear section of awning keeps popping out of the case, the front stays put.
I've been pressing the rear back in it stays in for a while then pops back out.
I'd hate to have it unroll cruising down the road mite tie some rope around it to keep secure. I think I see the wrench for winding it inside the case. yes long thread bc I have a bunch of ?s and these nice ppl are helping me alot.I've made alot of progress w/ these ppl advice.thanks again Guys.

[TX-Trek]

TB, the 2 coach batteries in our 210P, (2010) are in a slide-out tray just in front of the right rear wheel. The face of the tray is fiberglass matching the rest of the lower ground effects shapes around the van. Locks with a turning latch/lock. I also added a thin cable limiter inside the tray to keep the tray from sliding completely out on a turn if for some reason the latch fails.

[ChicagoTom]

ANSWERS IN CAPS
thats a good thing the propane tanks do not need to be re-certified.I've read the LP gas is very smelly so it's obvious if there's a leak.and soapie water can detect where it's bubbling it the leak.
excellent was wondering why the sofa was powered w/out a house battery.
IT IS POWERED WITH 12V HOUSE BATTERY
thanks for tips on starting generator w/ starting vans engine first.

I was hopping I could start generator w/ shore power then switch to generator.
NEVER EVER DO THAT. YOU COULD FRY THE ELECTRIC.

edit: please post image of your awning wrench.I was thinking a bottle jack wrench would work?
the rear section of awning keeps popping out of the case, the front stays put.
I've been pressing the rear back in it stays in for a while then pops back out.
I'd hate to have it unroll cruising down the road mite tie some rope around it to keep secure. I think I see the wrench for winding it inside the case. yes long thread bc I have a bunch of ?s and these nice ppl are helping me alot.I've made alot of progress w/ these ppl advice.thanks again Guys.[/QUOTE]
EASY TO REMOVE THE END CAPS AND IT CAN BE ADJUSTED. ALL KINDS OF INFO ON FIAMMA AND THEY HAVE GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE. YOU CAN ORDER THE CRANK

[ChicagoTom]

https://www.fiammausa.com/en/crank-handle-en.html FROM AMAZON $30, NOT THE SAME, BUT IT'LL WORK, OR GET IT FROM FIAMMA $56 ON UP, PLUS SHIPPING. https://www.fiammausa.com/en/crank-handle-en.html