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Old 09-21-2020, 05:57 PM   #1
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Default Chevy RT 200p owners pkease help with stock battery isolator location

hi all,

I noticed my isolator seems to be faulty as my chassis bat was drained this weekend by coach appliances.

I would like to replace the stock unit with a separator. I am sure it is stock and 20 years old and need to be replaced anyway.

Where did roadtrek put the stock unit? I cant seem to find it.

Also I am planning on popping in a new Eaton separator used on more modern RTs stock.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-22-2020, 01:47 AM   #2
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Hey,
There are some 200 owners here- someone will be along.

On my Pleasure Way the isolator is on the engine bay firewall- you should be able to follow the alternator wire from the alt to the seperator
mike
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Old 09-22-2020, 02:09 AM   #3
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I found ours.

Tell me if this sounds correct for colors:

Red from all
Black from all
Red from Aug bat remote
Black fromnaux batt remote

Mine has a mystery brown and yellow 18awg coming straight out and going through firewall.

I'm concerned about these i have no idea what to do with these
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Old 09-22-2020, 02:31 AM   #4
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New member here. Mine is at the bottom of the engine bay about 2' below the battery. I can follow the + cable to it. Also can see it from underneath the front.
1997 Roadtrek 200 Versatile - Chevy 5.7L
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:05 AM   #5
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I replaced my diode isolator with this from Blue Sea.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OTIPDQ...p_mob_ap_share

It is a 2 way unit so it also charges the chassis battery when plugged in, using the genny, or solar charging. Very low current draw.
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
I replaced my diode isolator with this from Blue Sea.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OTIPDQ...p_mob_ap_share

It is a 2 way unit so it also charges the chassis battery when plugged in, using the genny, or solar charging. Very low current draw.
Steve would you mind sharing the install procedure with me?

I was thinking of using this 1315-200 Sure Power Battery Separator | Connector Concepts, Inc.

But I am interested in comparing and the easier the setup the better
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Old 09-22-2020, 11:38 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Theputnams515 View Post
Steve would you mind sharing the install procedure with me?

I was thinking of using this 1315-200 Sure Power Battery Separator | Connector Concepts, Inc.

But I am interested in comparing and the easier the setup the better
No problem.
First off, disconnect all batteries, solar, and shore power. Label the wires at the isolator. Unhook the wiring and examine for bad connections. A couple of mine looked a bit dicey so I cleaned them up and put new cable ends on them. You will not be using the skinny wire anymore so cap that off securely.

As far as mounting the new unit I ran in a couple of self tapping screws.

There are only two large mounting posts. You will combine the chassis wire as well as whatever was mounted to the center post on one post and the coach battery to the other. You will also have to run a new skinny wire from the indicated spade terminal to the starter solenoid positive wire. This instantly opens the battery connection so there is not a surge of current coming from the coach battery that would overload the separator.

I didn't install the optional led indicator light.

Hope this all helps. Heading home in a few minutes from AR. Beta is chasing me out early.
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Old 09-22-2020, 01:40 PM   #8
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Thanks again steve.

So let me get this correct. Disco all the 12v batts.

On my isolator there are various reds, a black, Im not too concerned about those.

I am concerned about the skinny brown and skinny yellow wires going to the firewall. I have no idea what these are. They seem to be part of the isolator itself.

Now when you say isolator we are talking the unit up fron screwed to the frame connected to the alternator. Is this correct?

I will basically only be replacing this unit and working with this unit?

I am a complete RV newb. I have worked on various jeeps, MGs etc over the years but this RV thing is nuts. I feel like I am in a foreign land here
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Old 09-22-2020, 05:26 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theputnams515 View Post
I found ours.

Tell me if this sounds correct for colors:

Red from all
Black from all
Red from Aug bat remote
Black fromnaux batt remote

Mine has a mystery brown and yellow 18awg coming straight out and going through firewall.

I'm concerned about these i have no idea what to do with these
My guess is the 18ga. is an ignition wire. Used to tell the system that the engine is on, thus allowing charge to the coach batteries. It carries only that signal, which is why it is of such small gauge.
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Old 09-22-2020, 05:56 PM   #10
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My guess is the 18ga. is an ignition wire. Used to tell the system that the engine is on, thus allowing charge to the coach batteries. It carries only that signal, which is why it is of such small gauge.
I assume this as well. I should be able to just connect that to the appropriate spot on the new unit? I dunno
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Old 09-22-2020, 09:50 PM   #11
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If you have solar or will add solar then the Blue Sea SI-ACR unit Steve mentioned is a better choice in my opinion because it uses less power.

The relay drive current on the Sure Power 1315-200 is around 1.5A compared to 0.175A for the Blue Sea SI-ACR. So like 18 watts vs 2 watts to power the relay.

Blue Sea also has even more efficient bi-stable relays rated for 500A continuous current if needed.
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:30 PM   #12
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I assume this as well. I should be able to just connect that to the appropriate spot on the new unit? I dunno
Just test it with a multimeter first. If it is ignition related, wire should only be hot when key is turned.
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Old 09-23-2020, 12:48 AM   #13
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Thanks again steve.

So let me get this correct. Disco all the 12v batts.

On my isolator there are various reds, a black, Im not too concerned about those.

I am concerned about the skinny brown and skinny yellow wires going to the firewall. I have no idea what these are. They seem to be part of the isolator itself.

Now when you say isolator we are talking the unit up fron screwed to the frame connected to the alternator. Is this correct?

I will basically only be replacing this unit and working with this unit?

I am a complete RV newb. I have worked on various jeeps, MGs etc over the years but this RV thing is nuts. I feel like I am in a foreign land here
You will not be using the skinny wire (s) on the new unit, just a skinny wire to the chassis engine starter solenoid.

One would expect only one skinny wire to your current isolator, apparently someone did a little custom wiring. Anyone's guess as to what the deal is there, but I would do a little wire tracing to see what's what.

Isolator is screwed onto the frame, correct.
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Old 09-23-2020, 12:58 AM   #14
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Steve, it looks like yellow wire goes from E terminal on isolator to a 10 amp spot on Chassis fuse panel to relay And the black skinny goes from b1 to same relay in driver footwell. I will assume this is the starter relay.

Both wires yellow and black end up up at the “starter” Relay. I assume neither will be used and I’ll use a red jumper from starter solenoid to the new unit instead.

Does this sound correct?


So more digging.

The yellow wire goes to the fuse for the radio on the chassis. This makes sense as I believe this is used to send power to the radio through the ignition switch and then on to the isolator to energize it to allow current to the coach battery system when the vehicle is started/on. The black is just the ground wire for this and grounds at the same relay.
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Old 09-23-2020, 01:39 AM   #15
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Steve, it looks like yellow wire goes from E terminal on isolator to a 10 amp spot on Chassis fuse panel to relay And the black skinny goes from b1 to same relay in driver footwell. I will assume this is the starter relay.

Both wires yellow and black end up up at the “starter” Relay. I assume neither will be used and I’ll use a red jumper from starter solenoid to the new unit instead.

Does this sound correct?
I'm not there to see it so maybe I guess.

The old isolator needed constant power on the skinny wire, the Blue Sea unit skinny wire should only have power when the starter is engaged as it acts to disengage the connection.
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