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Old 05-18-2018, 05:10 PM   #21
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Default Roof question?.

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Originally Posted by ballbraindogs View Post
Lenny,
I feel so bad for you. I have a 2000 Pleasure Way Excel TD. I suggest that you join the Pleasure Way yahoo group. You just need your VIN # to join. They are a wealth of knowledge just like this group.

Right now there is a guy on there now who has a 2006 PW Plateau TS who has roof problems as well. Here is his post:

My sad PW is sick. Very sick.

It started with the roof. I discovered some rust and when we finally got a stretch of dry weather, I dug in to examine it further.

Turns out the roof is way too far gone to be patched. It needs to be replaced. The underlayment (plywood) is rotten too. I was able to find a shop that could replace the roof for about $12K. Most of the cost isn't for the roof itself. It's for the labor required to remove much of the inside of the RV so a new roof can be welded on, then re-install everything.

We started down that path. We thought $12K to repair the roof, though very painful, was worth doing.

The shop got started on the work and quickly discovered more trouble. One of the first steps is to remove the front windshield. When they did this, they discovered the front "cowl" that holds the bottom edge of the windshield was also completely rusted. They tell me this caused the windshield to fall and break when they were pulling it back from the top.

They also said the windshield was not original and the cowl had become rusted because of improper sealing of the replaced windshield.

In order to replace the "cowl" the dashboard has to be removed. They don't know yet, but they may also have to remove the engine. The cowl might be integral to the firewall. They are researching this.

On a slightly more positive note, they suggested that insurance might cover the cowl as that damage was caused by a faulty windshield installation and they said they could prove it if the insurance company is willing to consider it. I've got a call into insurance, but my gut tells me this will likely not be covered.

We don't yet have a cost estimate to replace the cowl, but if they need to pull the engine and replace the firewall, the cost is likely going to be high. I could see this getting into the $20K range before all is done

So, now I'm in a real pickle. The roof has already been cut open, the windsheild is gone and the cowl needs to be replaced, so obviously the van is not in useable condition.

I'm trying to think through my options.
1) continue repairs if it can be done for no more than $20K
2) Sell for salvage (not sure how to salvage an RV, but this place looks promising LKQ Corporation | Auto Parts, Aftermarket, Recycled


Other ideas?

Corby
06 Plateau TS
You wrote,
Turns out the roof is way too far gone to be patched. It needs to be replaced. The underlayment (plywood) is rotten too. I was able to find a shop that could replace the roof for about $12K. Most of the cost isn't for the roof itself. It's for the labor required to remove much of the inside of the RV so a new roof can be welded on, then re-install everything.

Okay, so... this is NOT a metal roof???
Is this really a B+...as opposed to a Class B??
Looks like a wider body..a fiberglass??

I don't know... I probably wouldn't put $12,000 into a new roof?? Just me.... maybe you might see the value in this?

I wonder if this might have not occurred with a metal roof...?
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Old 05-18-2018, 05:33 PM   #22
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As noted at the beginning of my post, this is not my vehicle. I was just posting it from the "Pleasure Way yahoo group" for Lenny as he seems to be having the same problem with his Pleasure Way Plateau TS. May be a problem with that model.
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:53 AM   #23
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I definitely feel bad for the person who agreed to spend $12K for a new roof only to find it will cost a lot more. I'll look up the Yahoo group, I tried to join the Facebook group but they rejected me without any kind of explanation.

I believe most of the rust on my rig is surface rust, I recently sanded down all the surface rust along the gutters, primed and repainted. I'm not a great painter so it turned out so so. Most of the rust is gone, it looks like a couple of places I didn't get all the rust but I believe most of it is vastly improved. I may pay a professional painter at a future date to improve on it.

I didn't know anything about RVs or diesel when I bought it. I just knew I wanted to travel with my dog, turned out my SO likes it too. I use my experience to advise people to look for well maintained and used vehicles rather than searching strictly for the lowest miles.

I actually find some of the experiences kind of funny, raining on my feet while driving was a new experience, having the window fall into the door on the first night of another trip and having it duct taped to the door the remainder of the trip. Things like that, I've already fixed the window issue. So don't feel bad for me. I've learned a lot and I'm sure I have a lot more to learn.

Currently I'm having glow plug issues and it sounds like a common thing for Sprinters as old as mine but I live in a warm climate so it's not been a problem for me.
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:45 AM   #24
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Default Glow plugs

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I definitely feel bad for the person who agreed to spend $12K for a new roof only to find it will cost a lot more. I'll look up the Yahoo group, I tried to join the Facebook group but they rejected me without any kind of explanation.

I believe most of the rust on my rig is surface rust, I recently sanded down all the surface rust along the gutters, primed and repainted. I'm not a great painter so it turned out so so. Most of the rust is gone, it looks like a couple of places I didn't get all the rust but I believe most of it is vastly improved. I may pay a professional painter at a future date to improve on it.

I didn't know anything about RVs or diesel when I bought it. I just knew I wanted to travel with my dog, turned out my SO likes it too. I use my experience to advise people to look for well maintained and used vehicles rather than searching strictly for the lowest miles.

I actually find some of the experiences kind of funny, raining on my feet while driving was a new experience, having the window fall into the door on the first night of another trip and having it duct taped to the door the remainder of the trip. Things like that, I've already fixed the window issue. So don't feel bad for me. I've learned a lot and I'm sure I have a lot more to learn.

Currently I'm having glow plug issues and it sounds like a common thing for Sprinters as old as mine but I live in a warm climate so it's not been a problem for me.
Hey,. I had a bad glow plug at 28,000 miles.. it was very unusual.. I had them all replaced at the same time... I recommend that you do that...once they are in there doing the work ..it's the least expensive option....
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Old 05-19-2018, 11:55 AM   #25
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Matt,

UNDERSTOOD.. I'm not worried about what other people think about my RS... in fact, most people think it's pretty nice.. as I do.

Nice to always hear someone validate that we got a decent deal.... so, thank you for your comment...

You're absolutely correct .... the most important thing about using your rig is to enjoy it... no matter what the color, style, make or model... and be sure you're safe on the road...

This is my first RV.. I chose the Class B for the smaller foot print and better fuel efficiency. We found out about Roadtrek through a friend who had one... otherwise, I might not have heard about them....

We were originally looking at a Winnebago Navion and saw this trade at the local dealership... I test drove the Navion and Fuse ( both Class C's) and really liked this Roadtrek a lot more... the larger rigs felt like I was on a "boat".

Funny, your comment about lots of storage.... that's the ONE thing about a Class B.. that you have to get used to... there's NOT as much space as the Class C.... ( a lot of hype about a B plus... there's no such thing as B plus)... marketing BS...

My answer to the space problem is simple... take less stuff with you.. you're not at home.. leave all that extra stuff at home and just take the essentials with you. We managed to take it on a three month trip... with a stop for a few weeks... across country.. worked fine.

You'll notice in the photo link... we have the optional armoire cabinets..for storage up front... they can be removed and we can put in the two seats for four seats up front... the cabinets give us more organization... handy.

This is really a two person coach... the way we use it.. And, there's three additional seats on in the back bench seat if we needed it.

Another great thing about a Class B.... we'll NEVER overload the coach.... it can handle an additional 3,000 pounds of cargo including passengers.... Since there's only two of us and limited space for gear.... we'll never even come close to that number...

Lots of people with larger Class C and Class A rigs have tons of extra space and they fill those up to the gills with "stuff"... don't want to deal with that.. if I want extra stuff, I have that at home...

I read the post about you purchasing the 1999 for $20,000 and putting $40,000 in upgrades..? My question is how does that jive with you insurance company?? Are you covered for the FULL value in case of a loss or accident? I would be a little concerned about that?

How many miles are on your 1999 Roadtrek Versatile?? And that's a gas model...

My wife thinks we're kind of "over improving" our 2012..

My response to this is that there were several things necessary to get a vehicle like this "ready to roll"..... like new tires, batteries and fix that dump hose..ugh.

The other upgrades like a better camera, sound and navigation system, solar panel, proximity sensors etc. were just to make it more comfortable for me to drive and control my vehicle.

We've had it a year... and put almost 15,000 miles on the rig.... I'm not letting the grass grow under our feet and having the rig as a front driveway ornament.

After that trip across the entire USA... yeah, we went a lot of places.. coming back I'm realizing that yes, I need a more stable suspension. Did I expect this to happen at 41,000 miles... NO, I didn't, but, it's a lot of weight. Being safe is a number one priority for me.... It's $3,100 ... but losing my life, having an accident in the rig, is a whole lot more !!

I figure that the diesel engine ( if you don't consider the other stuff hanging on the motor like the emissions, water pump, fuel pump, etc. ) is good for 350,000 to 500,000 miles. That's a long way to go.... Some diesels have gone way further than 500,000 miles if properly maintained.. 19 MPG on the highway is kind of hard to beat on an RV..

Getting this coach as the 2nd owner from the original owners ( who were local to Southern California and in their 60s like we are) was a BIG PLUS for me. And the inside condition was immaculate.

You're' right when you said " there's no perfect coach"... never is.

My RV shop tells me that they have so many clients who have brought their rigs in for a suspension upgrade... seems like a lot of manufacturers of the base van don't consider the extra constant weight of the conversion and everything that's going to hang off the chassis.... three water tanks, black, fresh and gray... generator, plus all of the kitchen equipment inside and bathroom fixtures.

I'm sure that a lot of DIY folks out there can do a lot of work themselves from mechanical to building custom interiors... I say, more power to you...
And, you can customize it anyway you like...

Sounds like you and I have something in common, I like to have this work contracted out to a professional that knows exactly what they're doing... it will be done perfect the first time.

I purchased the van to USE and enjoy it... not make this a project... I know my limitations.

Well, I dropped off the van today for the suspension and will get it back later in the week.

Keep going on the upgrade... making it personal for your needs is all that counts.
We have a 2008 RS we bought new with over 90,000 miles on it now. We love it and have made some convenience modifications to suit our needs. The most recent is a 12/120 volt refrigerator. I do want to comment on the 350000 to 50000 mile lifetime comment though. I agree the diesel can do that, however, my experience so far suggests a lot of the “parts” on the engine and chassis will be new and the cost of replacing them is not cheap. We have had quite reasonable items wear out in the past few years and the replacement costs have been in the $2000-3000 dollars each. I know I am facing a brake pad and rotor job soon too. I do not know if this pattern will continue but if so our per mile costs will just continue to increase. It is amazing how much one will spend on the love of a vehicle. Me included I guess.
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Old 05-19-2018, 02:45 PM   #26
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We have a 2008 RS we bought new with over 90,000 miles on it now. We love it and have made some convenience modifications to suit our needs. The most recent is a 12/120 volt refrigerator. I do want to comment on the 350000 to 50000 mile lifetime comment though. I agree the diesel can do that, however, my experience so far suggests a lot of the “parts” on the engine and chassis will be new and the cost of replacing them is not cheap. We have had quite reasonable items wear out in the past few years and the replacement costs have been in the $2000-3000 dollars each. I know I am facing a brake pad and rotor job soon too. I do not know if this pattern will continue but if so our per mile costs will just continue to increase. It is amazing how much one will spend on the love of a vehicle. Me included I guess.
Gary,

Well, congratulations on having your rig from brand new.. you've had 10 years and 90,000 miles of good use..?


I got my 2012 RS Adventurous last May 2017 with 26,000 miles.. immediately after getting it I discovered that the tires... even though they had reasonable tread were 6 years old..and someone advised me to replace them..a blowout on a vehicle like that is very unforgiving...so, besides tires, I had to get batteries, tire pressure monitoring system and a whole lot of other things came up... plus, like you I added some options... new sound system, cameras, solar, rear proximity sensors....it adds up.. drove 15,000 miles last year..and just upgraded the suspension..

My point is.. that's what people do.. they use their vehicles. It's more expensive if you didn't use it... let me explain.. suppose you bought a tuxedo for a special occasion and used it only once... that thing might have cost you $700...for a one time use....the more you use your RV..the lower the total overall cost will be....

Now, as far as the engine is concerned..the base engine is rock solid...it's all the other parts.. probably the transmission will last 300,000 ....

Someone else told me that the entire coach is likely to fall apart way before the engine craps out... what do you think.??

Have you had a lot of "rig failures" ?? As opposed to the vehicle?

I've found that with my cars that there's peaks and valleys with repairs... notice I said "repairs"...not maintenance... every car... even new ones need maintenance....

If you just figured out how much you've spent on "actual repairs"..over 90,000 miles...how much would you say it was???

Maintenance is tires, brakes, oil changes, filters, etc...

Finally, yes, Mercedes are extremely expensive to maintain.. I think its more expensive to neglect them.... people who do that wind up with a much bigger repair...and risk breaking down on the road... I don't mind driving older vehicles.... but, I expect them to be fully operational..... many people like to trade in for newer vehicles every few years..I don't see how that would work out as a financially advantageous idea with an RV..
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:42 PM   #27
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Gary,

Well, congratulations on having your rig from brand new.. you've had 10 years and 90,000 miles of good use..?


I got my 2012 RS Adventurous last May 2017 with 26,000 miles.. immediately after getting it I discovered that the tires... even though they had reasonable tread were 6 years old..and someone advised me to replace them..a blowout on a vehicle like that is very unforgiving...so, besides tires, I had to get batteries, tire pressure monitoring system and a whole lot of other things came up... plus, like you I added some options... new sound system, cameras, solar, rear proximity sensors....it adds up.. drove 15,000 miles last year..and just upgraded the suspension..

My point is.. that's what people do.. they use their vehicles. It's more expensive if you didn't use it... let me explain.. suppose you bought a tuxedo for a special occasion and used it only once... that thing might have cost you $700...for a one time use....the more you use your RV..the lower the total overall cost will be....

Now, as far as the engine is concerned..the base engine is rock solid...it's all the other parts.. probably the transmission will last 300,000 ....

Someone else told me that the entire coach is likely to fall apart way before the engine craps out... what do you think.??

Have you had a lot of "rig failures" ?? As opposed to the vehicle?

I've found that with my cars that there's peaks and valleys with repairs... notice I said "repairs"...not maintenance... every car... even new ones need maintenance....

If you just figured out how much you've spent on "actual repairs"..over 90,000 miles...how much would you say it was???

Maintenance is tires, brakes, oil changes, filters, etc...

Finally, yes, Mercedes are extremely expensive to maintain.. I think its more expensive to neglect them.... people who do that wind up with a much bigger repair...and risk breaking down on the road... I don't mind driving older vehicles.... but, I expect them to be fully operational..... many people like to trade in for newer vehicles every few years..I don't see how that would work out as a financially advantageous idea with an RV..
Adventurous RS1
I agree with all you said. My point was I have had people say, "oh a diesel it is cheap to run and runs forever". Yes, the base engine will likely run a long time as you say but a lot of other stuff will be likely be replaced with new and they may not necessarily be inexpensive. Again I did not buy it because it would be inexpensive run, as they say. I like to drive it, the torque, the space, etc and am willing to pay for it.
I have replaced hoses, belts, all glow plugs, front left wheel hub(likely the bolts were failing due to over torquing during tire changes), the macerator hose(early on, warranty), the macerator last year, the city water valve(my fault), the drive shaft bearings(under warranty) , and the refrigerator(my choice due to performance). I faithfully have oil changed, oil filter, fuel filter, and tire rotation every 10,000 miles and the cost is about $365 at a local Freightliner dealer. I can only imagine what the maintenance costs might be on a large Class A coach with all the batteries and systems they have. I am a happy camper.
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Old 11-18-2018, 10:11 PM   #28
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We were "sort of looking" into getting an RV and leaning toward Class B when we found this 2006 Adventurous on Craigslist that was too good to pass up...It was very well cared for and most folks are really surprised when they hear how old it is...
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Old 11-18-2018, 10:42 PM   #29
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We were "sort of looking" into getting an RV and leaning toward Class B when we found this 2006 Adventurous on Craigslist that was too good to pass up...It was very well cared for and most folks are really surprised when they hear how old it is...This is the Mercedes Diesel (Dodge grille) and gets 22 mpg!
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Old 11-18-2018, 10:59 PM   #30
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Default Beautiful looking rig...how much are they asking...NADA says $37k to 45k base price

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We were "sort of looking" into getting an RV and leaning toward Class B when we found this 2006 Adventurous on Craigslist that was too good to pass up...It was very well cared for and most folks re really surprised when they hear how old it is...
IF I were you...I'd look VERY CAREFULLY at the tires, ask when they replaced the batteries or look and see how old..... tires older than 6 years are a huge liability

Batteries and propane sensors usually fail around this time as well.

PLUS, if it has a generator.... remember, it should ideally have one hour of use for every month....12 years....144 hours....

I understand from Cummins that most of their generators go thousands of hours.... especially the propane models...... they said to exercise the generator under load for at least one hour per month.....fire it up....turn on the AC and let it run....

Don't be afraid to use it ...lack of use is worse.....

I will say that it's very difficult to find an older Roadtrek... just not as many made ..... especially the RS Adventurous..... Roadtrek told me that the RS Adventurous were all made to order.....i.e. someone had to put a deposit down to get one.... they just aren't making them to sit on some dealership floor....at least the older ones... including my 2012...

The lower priced line like the Erwin Hymer Sunlight and Carado ....not the same.... they made a whole more of these and sell them at Camping World......

IF you really like the unit and it all check out mechaniclly at the right price...go ahead...

I think that the 2006 had the 2.7 Five..... also a good engine... doesn't use DEF which might be a good thing?

PS... just looked at your profile...see you have it... how's it working for you?
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Old 11-18-2018, 11:51 PM   #31
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Thanks for the info. Yes it does have the 2.7 Turbo Diesel. Wow. The seller invested in a full set of brand new tires as a selling point. Had recent service records on all systems and generator. He did say the level sensors in the waste tanks did not work well. I asked if he ever flushed out the tanks and he said no. I observed that it seemed difficult to get them completely pumped out. So I bought one of those wands and started thoroughly flushing the black tank after every trip and adding waste tank treatment to both tanks, plus never leave them totally empty (some water/chemicals, or antifreeze in cold) and now everything works. It is going well and this beast loves the road. No-one actually said this but the pump out process is critical. Pump black tank. CLOSE black tank valve, then open GRAY valve and pump gray tank. Previous owner said to open GRAY valve before closing BLACK valve, but I think this potentially lets bad stuff into the gray tank. Since I started following this process the sensors work well and I can get both tanks fully emptied before hitting the road. I mistakenly stored it without engaging the coach battery disconnect, so drained the old lead acid to oblivion - it was old anyway. SInce the floor bolts down over the battery compartment I did not want a lead acid battery bc checking the water would be a pain. Went to a Bosch AGM and also moved a size up, and that has been performing well. Every trip usually involves some boondocking (Walmart) so it gets good use and cycling. Could go on, but you get the gist. I'll add I'm an engineer that enjoys a challenge. If that's not your shtick then buy new(er).
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Old 11-19-2018, 11:28 AM   #32
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Welcome to the world of 2005 Sprinters (I assume 2006 is the upfit year). Suggestions:

1. Make sure your rig has the turbo-resonator replacement (aluminum, not OEM plastic) and

2. has relatively new turbo hoses (certainly newer than the MY).

3. The other part that begins to show some failure in the 2005s (assuming its mileage is not sky high) is the water pump, but that failure rate is not sky high. I chose to replace mine preemptively while I was having other work done.

4. Plus the transmission flush instruction should have been re-written for 40,000 miles, not the 80,000 miles currently in the owner's manual (says my MB master service tech).

If you want to get generally up to speed on other common failure pathways that characterize the T1N Sprinter, the one-minute vids posted on Instagram by Million Mile Sprinter are very helpful.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:58 PM   #33
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"In an RV, only the front two seats must be built according to regulation.

The back seats are not regulated nor tests required.
ie the seat belts are just a marketing feature. "

That isn't true. If they are passenger seats, they are required to meet safety standards. As a lot of Roadtrek Sprinter owners just discovered, those requirements were not met for the second row seats. That wasn't because there weren't regulations but because they were not followed.
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