Dometic fridge: yay or nay?

alwechs · 12-05-2022, 03:46 PM

I'm looking to replace a 2006 Dometic fridge that no longer works. Has anyone had a bad experience with more recent Dometics (2354 or 2355 is the one I'm looking at). The reason I ask is I looked at consumer review online and the reviews are atrocious. Lots of complaints about terrible customer service, shoddy equipment, and difficulty in getting warranty repairs or replacement parts. Wondering how much value I should put into these complaints before sinking upwards of $700 or more on a replacement?

alwechs · 12-05-2022, 04:08 PM

Also bonus questions: what is the general consumption of propane, like per day if you use it non-stop? And is the freezer section removable?

KurtFranz · 12-05-2022, 08:46 PM

I have a new 2354 installed in 2021. No issues and works fine so far. Used it on a 3500 mile trip - DC - propane - AC.

That is all I can tell you at this time - only time will tell. I put this in because I like the flexibility the 3 way offers and it was a direct replacement so no fooling with retrofitting anything etc.

Does not seem to use much propane

N147JK · 12-05-2022, 08:50 PM

Nova Kool. 22 years old an still works like new. I have to keep it turned down or it will freeze everything.

SteveJ · 12-05-2022, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alwechs

I'm looking to replace a 2006 Dometic fridge that no longer works. Has anyone had a bad experience with more recent Dometics (2354 or 2355 is the one I'm looking at). The reason I ask is I looked at consumer review online and the reviews are atrocious. Lots of complaints about terrible customer service, shoddy equipment, and difficulty in getting warranty repairs or replacement parts. Wondering how much value I should put into these complaints before sinking upwards of $700 or more on a replacement?

Something like 150-160 hours/gal at 100%. One can do the math dividing the BTU's/gal of LP by the BTU rating of the burner. I did it once but my 71 year old brain doesn't remember the exact numbers. I think(?) the burner is 600 BTU and a gallon of LP is about 91,500.

Have you thought about a rebuilt or new cooling unit from JC Refrigeration or similar?

phantomjock · 12-05-2022, 11:13 PM

New Guy here - so consider the fact I may not know much about RVs. But for 30 years I lived on a similar (but floating) platform, on and off shore power, and often 30+ days off grid with refrigerated/frozen stores. Our propane was only for cooking.

I was very pleased when I installed a 12V Danfoss 12V setup. Mind you, we had mega battery banks by comparison to a Class B - including DavyBB's! But at a 35-50% duty cycle in tropical heat we were close to 50Ah per day. And that was with the equivalent of a household fridge/freezer size.

There are solutions available. Stay the course, Choose to go "without" (we knew many cruisers that had no refrigeration), change systems, Ice Maker?, or others.

And just to further complicate matters, Tesla is just now introducing a LiSu battery - lighter, more power per pound, faster charging, but still "coming." Too soon to expect any use this or maybe next year.

So the choice(s) I see, and have the same questions:

Do I keep a 3-way [and which one or replacement] and still run on propane to boondock, or
Do I upsize my Battery Bank and change out the refer system, or
Do I find some other compromise to "20th century living," and
How do I balance any of these changes with the tankage - which may be the real limiting factor.

I don't know if these are the same questions you have, But I wish you best of luck. I'm keen on your decision making with the fridge. It may help guide my thinking too.

Cheers - Jim

hbn7hj · 12-06-2022, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveJ

Have you thought about a rebuilt or new cooling unit from JC Refrigeration or similar?

Don’t think there is a rebuilt unit available for the 2354.

As much as I would like to have a compressor fridge I just don’t want to upgrade the electrical system. It would take two more lithium batteries and then I have to charge them.

The 2354 works well enough. I did change the wiring so it could be on with the battery contactor and everything else in the coach off. A condenser exhaust fan helps.

Just an opinion.

phantomjock · 12-06-2022, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

I did change the wiring so it could be on with the battery contactor and everything else in the coach off. A condenser exhaust fan helps.

In spite of my surprise at the Battery Bank size, I am not yet committed to increasing it either.

Your approach of the re-wiring sounds interesting. Looks like a rabbit hole I'll need to explore. I suppose the condenser fan is temperature controlled - or on full-time? Thanks for those tips.

Cheers - Jim

hbn7hj · 12-06-2022, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantomjock

I suppose the condenser fan is temperature controlled - or on full-time? Thanks for those tips.

Temp controlled through ARP.

hbn7hj · 12-06-2022, 10:10 PM

ARPRV.com an ARP search probably won’t find it.

phantomjock · 12-06-2022, 10:41 PM

Got it thanks. Also a heap of YT Videos and other Dometic specific discussion here on the board. I come form a "compressor/Danfoss" fridge/freezer background so the whole 3 way is new. Thanks for the links.
We can do this!
Cheers - Jim

GallenH · 12-07-2022, 01:40 AM

As hbn7hj is aware, I've toyed with this issue for at least 3 years and I've slowly come to the same decision that he has. My RV is a 1997PW; older than most of yours. I figure that I could do an electrical upgrade and buy a compressor fridge for c$3k-4k. If I did it myself. My fridge is the RM2310; a predecessor to the 2354. Everything is manual on this model; no computer board doing monitoring/switching/etc. I actually like it that way. But lately the thermostat has gone south. Doesn't do a thing. In moderate weather and cool nights (Minnesota, September) we can get down to 26º and that is a problem. I'm reasonably good about level but that means getting it about half way into a bubble level. My opinion is LP fridges work pretty well unless you're dealing with 100º+ temps.

So what to do?

Right now I'm contemplating "restoring" my 2310. I can find the complete thermostat assembly for c.$130. I'll probably add a new thermocouple and extensively clean the gas line/jets. In addition I'm contemplating buying a refurbished set of cooling coils (I don't believe they make new ones). Those cost anywhere from $450-600. Supposedly they have a more modern gas mixture which they tout as increasing cooling power. I've pulled the fridge before (to burp) so I'm confident in that. Cost, I figure would be under $1k.

I haven't decided if I go this route if I will upgrade the 12v element or perhaps go the way of getting a small inverter to power the fridge on 120v that would only be active when driving. I can't remember if anyone did the calculations as to size I'd need or if it would improve cooling significantly when driving. As most of you know the 12v is practically worthless on these at least in stock configuration.

Comments?

SteveJ · 12-07-2022, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GallenH

I haven't decided if I go this route if I will upgrade the 12v element or perhaps go the way of getting a small inverter to power the fridge on 120v that would only be active when driving. I can't remember if anyone did the calculations as to size I'd need or if it would improve cooling significantly when driving. As most of you know the 12v is practically worthless on these at least in stock configuration.

Comments?

My brother has a Coach House that he installed a 200 watt inverter in the fridge compartment that works very well. He was having problems when driving using the LP, the temperature in the fridge would creep up. The 120 element draws 175 watts, IIRC.

hbn7hj · 12-07-2022, 07:06 AM

I am astounded that a new Dometic RM2354 is priced at ~$1800. They sold for $600 not too many years ago. That would be my first choice except for the price.

Rebuilt RM 2354 cooling units are indeed available.

https://coolfunrv.com/product/rm2351...cooling-units/

Also the RM 2310

ChicagoTom · 12-11-2022, 04:05 PM

True below, but I replaced mine with a new RM2354. It was a simple install, but yes the price was around $1800 delivered and with tax after my Amazon Card Discount. I am one of the few who like the 3-way, although I disconnected the 12V option. Pretty useless IMO and too many forget to switch it off of 12V when parked. Regarding the propane used, skip the math, I can tell you that it uses very very little. I had mine running for about 3 months prior to getting my propane valve replaced and there was still some left in the 6 gallon tank. (10 gallon tank, says 8 gallon, but actually empty to full 6 gallons) >>>>>>>>>>>"I am astounded that a new Dometic RM2354 is priced at ~$1800. They sold for $600 not too many years ago. That would be my first choice except for the price.

Rebuilt RM 2354 cooling units are indeed available."

engnrsrule · 12-11-2022, 04:59 PM

I replaced the 3 way Dometic in my 2006 RT 2 years ago with their RM8505 and am very happy with results. I wanted to keep 3-way capability and the newer dometic was an exact fit in the space. It has performed very well. Much good discussion on my thread about it...
https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post123425

engnrsrule · 12-12-2022, 11:56 AM

To Chicago Tom... You ought to consider reconnecting 12v (you paid for it!). The primary value in 12v is while rolling. The new Dometic 3-ways will switch automatically based on what power is available, but I do not agree with the automatic prioritization. But here is the hierarchy...there are some interesting features.

If 110 is available it runs on AC. If no 110 and propane is available, it runs on propane. If no 110 or propane then it runs on 12v. Additionally, if it is on propane and you stop the vehicle, it switches to 12v for 20 minutes. This is to prevent an open flame occurring during refueling. I think that is a great feature.

Also, if I am boondocking and switch on my inverter, I do not want the auto system switching from propane to 110.

Additionally, some of my frequent routes require propane to be off (New Jersey, New York, some bridges/tunnels in other states) so I always manually switch to 12v when driving. The engine alternator has no problem keeping coach batteries at 100%, plus it conserves propane. My rule of thumb is to switch to propane if I am going to stop for more than an hour.

I also tapped the 12v fridge supply to power the auxiliary cooling fans that I added to the fridge (internal) and the void soace behind the fridge.

ChicagoTom · 12-13-2022, 02:11 PM

Use it if you want...x refrig tech for what it's worth...mine is disconnected...propane is too cheap relating to the fridge

engnrsrule · 12-13-2022, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChicagoTom

Use it if you want...x refrig tech for what it's worth...mine is disconnected...propane is too cheap relating to the fridge

My problem is needing to comply in states where they require propane off. Propane may be cheap but when rolling 12v is practically free.

GallenH · 12-13-2022, 05:01 PM

I keep asking the inverter question because on 120v my 3-way runs much better, rivaling propane, than the 12v. So my thought was to add a small inverter solely dedicated to the fridge that would be active only when driving.
Just need to figure out how large since I assume that I have to be careful about not having it be unnecessarily large and taxing the alternator/battery components.

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