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Old 04-26-2020, 07:43 PM   #1
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Default Furnace Problem

We have a Suburban NT 16SE furnace in our 2005 Roadtrek 210 Versatile. The furnace does not ignite. The fan turns on and seems quite strong (should be enough to trip the sail switch), but then nothing. I do hear a click soon after the fan starts, and a second click 20 seconds or so later, but that's it. I've vacumed the intake and exhaust ports and around the interior behind the front panel. I'm reluctant to pull it out since I'm not great at checking electrical connections. Any suggestions or recommendations for how-to guides? Thanks, Nick
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:35 PM   #2
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We have a Suburban NT 16SE furnace in our 2005 Roadtrek 210 Versatile. The furnace does not ignite. The fan turns on and seems quite strong (should be enough to trip the sail switch), but then nothing. I do hear a click soon after the fan starts, and a second click 20 seconds or so later, but that's it. I've vacumed the intake and exhaust ports and around the interior behind the front panel. I'm reluctant to pull it out since I'm not great at checking electrical connections. Any suggestions or recommendations for how-to guides? Thanks, Nick
Welcome to the forum Nick!

Prior to trying to light the furnace, have you ensured the propane switch is on and tried lighting a stove burner to check that "air" is out of the line. Also, what about your water heater? Does it work?
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Old 04-26-2020, 10:48 PM   #3
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You need to determine if the propane is turning on. One way to do that is remove the ignitor and insert a barbecue lighter in the opening and see if propane ignites when you turn the furnace on.

If it does, then then problem is with the ignitor or control board.

Personal experience says that removing and replacing the ignitor gets things working again. Don’t know why.
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Old 04-27-2020, 05:17 PM   #4
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Default Furnace Problem

Thanks for the responses! Yes, the stove and water heater (and fridge) all work fine, so I don't think it's a gas supply problem. I'll try manually lighting it as hbn7hj recommends. It looks like there are only a few screws that hold in the igniter plate, or does the igniter come out by itself?
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Old 04-28-2020, 12:50 AM   #5
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The ignitor plate comes out. Run some sandpaper over the tip. If the propane comes on it is only on for a few seconds unless it detects a fllame.

When you put it back together listen for the ignitor spark. If you don’t have it then buy a new control board.
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Old 05-04-2020, 04:10 PM   #6
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We had the same problem. I thought that it might be the sail switch or maybe paper wasps. In one of those "What do I have to lose" moments before I pulled the furnace, I took a leaf blower to the intake side of the furnace and blew all kinds of crap out. Surprise!!! The furnace fired right up!! We've only used it half a dozen times or so since then but it;s still working fine.
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Old 05-04-2020, 05:35 PM   #7
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...I took a leaf blower to the intake side of the furnace and blew all kinds of crap out...

same...



Live in AZ we have all kinds of wasp problems, mud and bits of flowers


I try to be dilligent about taping over openings when stored//parked


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Old 05-05-2020, 03:16 PM   #8
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We have a Suburban NT 16SE furnace in our 2005 Roadtrek 210 Versatile. The furnace does not ignite. The fan turns on and seems quite strong (should be enough to trip the sail switch), but then nothing. I do hear a click soon after the fan starts, and a second click 20 seconds or so later, but that's it. I've vacumed the intake and exhaust ports and around the interior behind the front panel. I'm reluctant to pull it out since I'm not great at checking electrical connections. Any suggestions or recommendations for how-to guides? Thanks, Nick
Consider the Cheap Heat option...I like it, and don’t have to fool w/ Propane...
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Old 05-05-2020, 03:22 PM   #9
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Consider the Cheap Heat option...I like it, and don’t have to fool w/ Propane...

But, only runs when on shore power or generator? You just can't get decent heat off of batteries unless you have an mighty big bank of them.
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Old 05-05-2020, 03:41 PM   #10
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Replace the igniter, only takes a few minutes, or sanding and replaciny may be a temp fix, but do NOT light with a bic lighter. WTF, people should NOT give advice like that. I was a furnace repair guy many many years ago, so please trust me.
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Old 05-05-2020, 09:50 PM   #11
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Replace the igniter, only takes a few minutes, or sanding and replaciny may be a temp fix, but do NOT light with a bic lighter. WTF, people should NOT give advice like that. I was a furnace repair guy many many years ago, so please trust me.
OK, we can take your advice. The objective is to see if propane is being turned on. What do you suggest? A propane sensor will fit in the opening? Listen or feel for the propane valve to open? Is there another way?

Worked fine for me but had the furnace been full of propane it would have been interesting.
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Old 05-06-2020, 10:02 AM   #12
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If you remove unit check and clean the propane orifice area. A friend had spider web buildup that prevented sufficient propane from reaching the ignitor. It would attempt to light a few times and then timeout. Occasionally you could here a pop, which sounded like propane ignition, but it would not stay lit. Also clean the orifice itself. There is a Suburban service manual on the web somewhere that covers this. Only do this if you are very comfortable and knowledgeable working a propane system. Otherwise, take it to an RV propane system repair shop.
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Old 05-19-2020, 12:06 AM   #13
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I replaced the igniter, but still same problem. I've got a repairman coming this week. I'll let you all know the solution. It's ironic that our next trip is to the dessert.... But I'm sure we'll visit the mountains again before long.
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Old 05-19-2020, 04:46 AM   #14
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That would be great if you let us know what he finds. Usually that solves it. I know some have had similar issues, only it’s in the refrigerator, and sometimes it’s the board. The boards for refrigerators are pretty sensitive though and control 3 ways. Stumped
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Old 05-19-2020, 05:03 AM   #15
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I hope this link works. Gives a pretty good demonstration of your issue. I think yours is actually easier to get at. At least the igniter is. Ended up being the board, but first thing he tried was the igniter. https://youtu.be/0t8vRuGdZLw
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Old 05-19-2020, 05:10 PM   #16
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When I inherited our RV from my FIL the furnace wasn't working. He had bought a small ceramic heater that obviously was only of value when he was plugged in. The person that I had go over the RV components before I took possession replaced the circuit board and that fixed it.
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Old 05-19-2020, 05:11 PM   #17
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Forgot: It was the same Suburban as yours.
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:14 PM   #18
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A repairman diagnosed the furnace problem as a bad gas valve. The part is $260! We're going ahead with the repair and I'll let you all know how it turns out.
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:35 PM   #19
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A repairman diagnosed the furnace problem as a bad gas valve. The part is $260! We're going ahead with the repair and I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Thanks. We don’t often get the conclusions.
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:55 PM   #20
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Seems very expensive for a small solenoid valve - unless maybe that is an installed price?

Just my gut feeling, never actually priced them!
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