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Old 06-01-2021, 09:26 PM   #1
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Default G05 coolant on sale

If anyone use G05 coolant in anything and changes their own, very good price at NAPA on the concentrate (mix your own) style. This is what we use in our two GM vehicles since they were converted from Dexcool years ago. It has worked well, and the insides of the cooling passages in the 96 Buick 5.7 cast iron engine looked spotless when I just had it all apart, which is quite good for 140K miles and 25 years old. The 07 Roadtrek is do for a change this year, also so I got 4 gallons which should last a while.


NAPA has it for $12.99 per gallon, which I ran across as a mainly unadvertised special. Most places have it for $20-23 per gallon around here. Zerex brand.
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:34 PM   #2
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I have no experience with G05, but I haven't heard any recent problems with Dexcool. I just had my coolant changed at the Chevy dealer along with transmission fluid and brake flush. This was part of a planned 5yr./50K miles service.

Did I miss something about Dexcool not holding up?

EDIT: I found this chart. Seems like all coolants are just variations off a basic OAT formula with some sillicate, phosphate, and color changes. But still different enough to avoid mixing.

https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...engine-coolant
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Old 06-01-2021, 10:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
I have no experience with G05, but I haven't heard any recent problems with Dexcool. I just had my coolant changed at the Chevy dealer along with transmission fluid and brake flush. This was part of a planned 5yr./50K miles service.

Did I miss something about Dexcool not holding up?

EDIT: I found this chart. Seems like all coolants are just variations off a basic OAT formula with some sillicate, phosphate, and color changes. But still different enough to avoid mixing.

https://www.valvoline.com/our-produc...engine-coolant

Dexcool is, or least started as, an OAT only and was known to eat some gaskets in GM cars and had tendency to cause rust "sludge" accumulations that would plug radiators, heater cores and even blocks and heads. They claimed then and still do that it is not a problem, but there was just too much of it not to be an issue. Cast iron blocks and heads where some of the most common victims as there seemed to be more issues with them. Some say because of left over core sand in them, and others saying it was just the Descool didn't protect well enough. For a while, and some probably still do it, it was said the way to know if you are going to have an issue was to measure the conductivity of the coolant with an procedure I don't recall, as I think the PH changed as the Dexcool aged and the additives depleted. Air in the system was also said to be a big deal and accelerate the degrading of the Dexcool and increase in corrosion.



I didn't read the linked article yet, but there are tech papers out there that describe the actual chemical reactions of the coolant and additives with the engine materials like aluminum, steel, cast iron, etc and it is really pretty interesting. The do a good job of showing how it all is a big balancing act of pros and cons with all the coolant additives and chemistries.


There are universal replacement, adding to, coolants sold that claim they mix with everything, but I don't believe that for a minute. If you do make a change like we did, it is a lot of work (and mess for most of us) as it takes several fill, run, drain flushes to get all the old stuff out. Took me most of the day when I did it, per vehicle. The bummer is you shouldn't let it just flush with a hose in and a drain out, as you still have to catch it all and you wind up with way to much to haul into recycling. No more just running it on the ground like in the old days. Some places still allow it to be put down the sanitary sewer (not septic or storm drain), but most have quit that now. Made it easy if you had a garage floor drain to the city sewer.
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