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Old 10-07-2020, 03:26 PM   #61
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These heaters donít like to run on idle, the prime time for soot build up. My D2 often runs on low setting, but after every trip I run both D2 and D5 hot for a half an hour. I have D2 for 6 years with one problem of air in fuel due to low fuel in the tank. I installed D5 a couple of years ago and have no problem.
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Old 10-07-2020, 03:38 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by booster View Post
I assume the kerosene once a year is to flush and clean the systems?
Yes. The kerosene burns hotter than diesel fuel and has no additives. It is pretty miraculous. It can often make a poorly-running heater run perfectly again. Some people run pure kerosene all time from a special tank. They claim that this setup will run almost forever without service.
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Old 11-22-2020, 01:21 AM   #63
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Hi - it might be stale but this is a great thread and as a new owner of a lightly-used Roadtrek RS Adventurous with a similar problem, I'm interested in whether S&S Thomas was able to resolve the difficulty getting his Espar heater running.

For what it's worth, the advice in the thread was great in helping me get started. I ended up on the phone with Jim Rixen and his shop a couple times. Purchased a controller, and a Y-split wiring harness, from Rixen and used it tonight to read and clear codes. I'm still in the middle of the diagnostic process, but was able to read the codes, confirm that the system was locked out, reset the codes and regain access to starting the system. By dusk I was getting new fresh codes ("no flame") and when time allows I will continue the diagnostics.

If someone with a late-model Roadtrek wants more info, I'm happy to send links to several comprehensive troubleshooting manuals, and a pic of how to temporarily attach the diagnostic tool with the Y-split harness under the rig. It's maybe a 5 minute job if you have a ramp or drive the left-front tire onto a 4x4 or similar (taking care to block the wheels, etc).

Would also be interested in the conclusion of S&S's problem solving if he sees this post.

Thanks, -Calvin

I have a 2018 ETREK and cannot get the diesel Alde to work now. The heat/hot water works through the Alde 3010 in electric mode when plugged in but the espar will not fire up now at all in diesel mode. I would be very interested if you have found a fix.
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Old 11-29-2020, 11:37 PM   #64
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Hi Cnairn - we finally resumed work on our Alde/Espar system today in our Roadtrek. We determined that there was air (or at least, no fuel) getting to the Espar unit - and based on others' suggestions, we gently pressurized the fuel tank to get fuel flowing, successfully. Unfortunately after several tries we weren't able to get the Espar unit started before dark; next step is to test the fuel pump (which we can hear trying to pump, it's a loud persistent clicking noise during the startup phase for the Espar unit).

If you're not getting response from the Espar unit (no sound, no diesel odor), from our experience the prior helpful posts about the unit being locked out are correct - we purchased a diagnostic unit from Jim Rixen and have used it (several times) to reset the CPU on the Espar unit which allows the unit to go through the startup sequence. (Our problem is post-reset, where the Espar unit will initiate the startup sequence but not get to ignition.)

If we learn more before it gets too cold to work on it, we'll post additional information. Good luck.
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Old 11-30-2020, 12:09 AM   #65
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The following site has is good material for troubleshooting. Any air bubbles in fuel line could prevent pumping. Any small leak on the pump intake side will cause air intake. I have not heard about pressurizing tank to eliminate the problem, usually it is low fuel.

ďPump clicking but no fuel delivered to heater
Check if you have run out of or are simply low on fuel, a tank pick up tube can be 50 mm or more above the tank bottom. This ensures there will be enough fuel left to run the engine and prevents crud in the bottom of the tank from being picked up. On one camper van the tank held diesel for about 250 miles but the heater stopped working after 200 miles.
If the fuel pipes were empty before starting check if purging of air is complete.
Check the fuel lines and connections for air leaks
Check all clips are tight.
Check condition of rubber sleeves, they swell and can become porous as they deteriorate.
Check for blockages in pipes, more details lower on this page.
In very cold weather any water in the fuel can freeze. Most UK fuel sold at the pumps is winterised from September onwards, summer fuel will wax up at relatively mild temperatures.
Check the fuel pick-up pipe, on some non Eberspacher types the tube pushes into the upper part and can have an air leak or it might have fallen off.
Check the fuel filter in the base of the pump.
Remove the pump and bench test it as described on Fuels 2 page.Ē

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk...er_fuel_1.html
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