Inexpensive way to stay warm while asleep this Winter ...

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by mumkin

....It will keep you toasty warm all night using almost NO power because it is so efficient. .....

Just out of curiosity, what type of fridge are you running? Propane, Danfoss compressor, or other?

I don't have your system config on the summary we made late last year.

[AdamG]

I'm a little confused by this whole thread. I am however brand new to RV'ing. That being said our Class B as an Espar furnace...and it's my understanding that it runs off our fuel tank...and very effeciently. So why don't I just keep our van as warm as I like with that, and skip the electric blankets?

[themexicandoctor]

Since you already have the Espar system, you don't necessarily need the Electric Blanket as a primary source of keeping warm at night.

This Thread was started for people that primarily don't have such an Engineered System but like the majority of Class B owners, do NOT have such a system.

Is your system Diesel or Gas?

Was it configured at the manufacturer or an add on?

[AdamG]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Is your system Diesel or Gas?

Was it configured at the manufacturer or an add on?

It's a gas system. Came installed on our 2020 "MAD" Promaster Legend RV.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by AdamG

It's a gas system. Came installed on our 2020 "MAD" Promaster Legend RV.

Thank you for the quick answer.

Like a naieve Idiot I am going to ask you what is a MAD Promaster?

You, with a 2020 model, are probably not going to have as many hurdles to jump to make "yours the perfect rig for you"*, like some of us with older rigs who have modified ours to surpass our neeeds the older engineering didnt allow.

For us older rig owners, this place is a Magical Place of Dead Ends & tried & true Answers.

You say 2020, when did you purchase?

Have you used it a lot?

Do you have a DC Fridge, Solar, etc.

Is it a custom build or manufacturer?

Knowing what you know now, what would you change to make it more ideal for your needs?

Before I forget, like one other poster pointed out my original claim, if you have a 12 volt outlet, these units work wonderfully by warming you at the source, the bed, within the sheets with very little power.

They could be an ideal compliment, to your Espar Heater.

[AdamG]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Thank you for the quick answer.

Like a naieve Idiot I am going to ask you what is a MAD Promaster?

Midwest Automotive Designs. It's a production vehicle...in fact, it is identical to the Fleetwood IROK.

We have had it for a little over two weeks and a little over 1800 miles of use so far. The fridge is 12v and 120. It did come with one solar panal and a 255 amp hour (156 lbs) AGM battery.

Can't think of much I would change at this point. Would have prefered Lithium over AGM..and maybe a larger fridge...but "B's" are a series of compromises and overall we are very happy with it so far.

[themexicandoctor]

Can't think of much I would change at this point. Would have prefered Lithium over AGM..and maybe a larger fridge...but "B's" are a series of compromises and overall we are very happy with it so far.[/QUOTE]

You sound like a very wise Class B owner after 2weeks.

Is that a Lifeline AGM, if so, you have the finest AGM Battery in the World and its a lot more forgiving than a Lithium.

Do you think you need more solar or is your panel 200 watts?

CONGRATULATIONS!

[themexicandoctor]

Call DAN GRINDLE at Electrowarmth (800) 990-4622

This is the new improved version of what I purchased in 2007 but sold with my other van in 2011.

Note; Electrowarmth make a lot of fitted & non fitted electric mattress pads, that use 110volts.

This is NOT a 110volts unit but a purpose built, 12 Volt T36 Bunk Warmer which is not fitted & is 36x60 inches.

I have a 54x74 bed, like I did previously, I am going to lay this unit, under my mattress pad & the first fitted sheet, sideways so I get to warm my lower extremities only. Which I prefer.

1. Dan said they moved away from a THERMOSTAT unit to a Solid State DUTY CYCLE unit & its much improved.

2. Yes it does draw 6.2amps at start up but should run when on 50% of Maximum - I & everyone I know who used these have never had an issue with them using power & bringing my battery down & this was 13 years ago when I had just a Blue Top Optima battery acting as the House & Chassis battery.

3. It has a male end that fits into a 12 volt cigarette lighter receptacle.

4. For those of you who have converted over to a 110volt system and or use shore power, maybe you might prefer oneof those units also on www.electrowarmth.com

5. These units work very effectively by generating heat on gop of your mattress, under your sheets, keeping you warm at the source and your removing any dampness from your bedding.

Here are some screenshots of the pdfs he sent me.

[AdamG]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

You sound like a very wise Class B owner after 2weeks.

Is that a Lifeline AGM, if so, you have the finest AGM Battery in the World and its a lot more forgiving than a Lithium.

Do you think you need more solar or is your panel 200 watts?

CONGRATULATIONS!

It is a Lifeline battery...but I really don't know a ton about it...other than it is vastly superior to a lead-acid.

It came with a 100-watt panel...but at this point, I really don't know how much "off-grid" use we will be doing.

[themexicandoctor]

Here are the screenshots but don't rely on me, called DAN directly

[themexicandoctor]

One more screenshot

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by AdamG

It is a Lifeline battery...but I really don't know a ton about it...other than it is vastly superior to a lead-acid.

It came with a 100-watt panel...but at this point, I really don't know how much "off-grid" use we will be doing.

If its a Lifeline then its this model; https://lifelinebatteries.com/produc...eries/gpl-8dl/

Phenomenal equipment.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by AdamG

I'm a little confused by this whole thread..... our Class B as an Espar furnace...and it's my understanding that it runs off our fuel tank...and very effeciently. So why don't I just keep our van as warm as I like with that, and skip the electric blankets?

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Since you already have the Espar system, you don't necessarily need the Electric Blanket as a primary source of keeping warm at night......

AdamG has become "a little confused" by the repeated no-brainer declaration, which is exactly my objection.

On this topic, a "no brainer" to Poster A may be a "non-starter" for Poster B, for a number of different logical reasons including, but not limited to, the following:

-- In the case of many off-grid vanners (including me), the non-starter conclusion arises due to usage patterns, system configuration, and cumulative power demands. A large percentage of habitual Class B boonodockers are severely power-limited. Many in our cohort struggle to run their refrigerators, and/or are consigned to propane because their batteries cannot handle electric fridges. A resistive heating option for this cohort is about as attainable as the Moon.

-- In AdamG's case, the non-starter conclusion arises because his van configuration makes an electric blanket simply not relevant.

If someone has a van configuration and travel pattern that points to an electric blanket as a solution for them, that's excellent. But it's excellent for THEM, not the rest of us, and to declare otherwise is poor form.

This exchange reminds me of an analogous conflict I encountered a few years ago on a different forum. My husband and I are employed people, and we face severe time restrictions on our ability to travel because we have to show up for work, duh. A lot of our van was configured to allow us to be maximally time-efficient, since we cannot afford to dawdle in anything we do.

On that other forum, an incredibly selfish poster kept butting into some of my logistical threads with, "Why don't you simply retire? Then you wouldn't face these time pressures!"

And I kept replying, "Ummmmm, my husband is around 40 years old, and I'm around 50. We are not of retirement age. We are developing our van capacity within a younger person's constraints of working and vacationing."

But even with that "non-starter" fact for perspective, that poster wouldn't quit issuing the same declaration repeatedly, because to them, retiring was a "no brainer", and we were simply fools for not doing it.

It's an ignorant way to look at the world, not being able to see beyond the end of one's own nose and recognize that other people have different circumstances that demand different logistical solutions to any given predicament. Blame the mixed-bag phenomenon of social media for that kind of narcissism.

[MsNomer]

You are so correct, Interblog.

[mumkin]

Originally Posted by AdamG

Midwest Automotive Designs. It's a production vehicle...in fact, it is identical to the Fleetwood IROK.

Actually Midwest created it and then they were purchased by the REV Group who copied it and called it the IROK.

You asked about my fridge. I have the standard Roadtrek fridge that comes in their Promaster models. It is a 5 cf Norcold that is only 12v. I love the large size and the fact that it isn't sitting on the floor. (and with no propane, no leveling) Many people have no issue running the fridge with one 12v AGM - and these rigs normally come with the underhood generator (2nd large alternator hooked to house batteries) so you can idle for 20 or so minutes and top it off for the night. I took the option of adding a second 12v (Group 31) and I have 270w of solar. I can go indefinitely running the fridge, lights, charge my electronics, and either the fan or 12v mattress pad (whichever is needed). And if it's very cloudy, I just need to idle with the UHG to top up.

[themexicandoctor]

I trust that you might just be confused.

Adam is not.

AND I HAVE NEVER, EVER TALKED TO YOU, ON ANY THREAD ABOUT RETIRING or NOT RETIRING.

Retirement at 27, 40 or 105 is a personal choice.

Unless you are referring to a post I made about first retiring at 27 but felt unchallenged, that thread was years aho. As you will note, I will never talk about the money, until its the money.

Could you correct your post please.

Or provide evidence of such a conversation.

We, as a group that keeps growing, suspect an issue with reading comprehension & fixation as this part of my entire exchange with Adam was overlooked along with many other threads;

START
Before I forget, like one other poster pointed out my original claim, if you have a 12 volt outlet, these units work wonderfully by warming you at the source, the bed, within the sheets with very little power.

They could be an ideal compliment, to your Espar Heater. 02:50 PMEND

And the person I was referring to as the poster is Mumkim who has also owned one for years.

My thread was for all owners, including 2 of the 3 owners, who ALREADY have Espar heaters, but don't want to be involved.

So its an option for;
START
-- In the case of many off-grid vanners (including me), the non-starter conclusion arises due to usage patterns, system configuration, and cumulative power demands. A large percentage of habitual Class B boonodockers are severely power-limited. Many in our cohort struggle to run their refrigerators, and/or are consigned to propane because their batteries cannot handle electric fridges. A resistive heating option for this cohort is about as attainable as the Moon.*

(And yet I myself had previously in a 1999 Explorer Campervan, a single blue top Optima to supply the Chassis & House & I know the simple hacks owners of such blankets with one battery know - now that I have two Lifeline AGMs & an Odyssey Extreme Chassis Battery it is even more of a no-brainer. However I will admit, when Class B's matured enough for me to buy one, my Brain became too intelligent & I developed tunnel vision, after all the Class B had substantially more insulation & a furnace which I had modified (see photo), to blow warm air directly under the bed & up through predrilled holes in under the mattress - it wasnt 100% efficientbut it stopped the furnace blowing direcyly onto the fridge for an added benefit), but then one of the members here reminded me of the option they use, the Bunk Warmer by Electrowarmth & then I rememberedhow I used one to great success)

In AdamG's case, the non-starter conclusion arises because his van configuration makes an electric blanket simply not relevant.

If someone has a van configuration and travel pattern that points to an electric blanket as a solution for them, that's excellent. But it's excellent for THEM, not the rest of us, and to declare otherwise is poor form. END

We suspect the issue you are having is unlike the rest of us happy campers, your Brain is far more powerful than ours.

If this is true, nothing we can present as an option, is good enough for you & I suggest pressing the NEXT Button provided on page one & letting us fumble our way through Class B Life.

Hence why I suggest to owners this might help that they talk to the company directly, IF this interests them.

---------------------

Back to thread at hand.

I do not benefit from this "no brainer" product.

If this product might be of value to you, call Dan directly, my inbox won't help you as this is something like anything else I suggest, requires your due diligence just like suggestions others have made to me.

He can answer all your questions, 2 owners already have Espar heaters & use these as an adjunct that heats the lower 3rd of the bedding.

$77.00 is also a great price, with a money back guarantee.

----------------

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[themexicandoctor]

Below is my original post, I hope my enthusiasm for a solution for some didn't seem like an Edict from The Guy Upstaits that these are a Mandatory Investment to ensure Class B Forum Membership.

It worked for me, with a very little bank on a 5 year Sabbatical around the USA (one of the hacks is to drive or run the motor for 10 minutes before retiring*)

*as in RETIRING TO BED

----------------

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post118136

[Moderator's edit: Redundant content replaced with link. Please do not repeat post]

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by mumkin

Actually Midwest created it and then they were purchased by the REV Group who copied it and called it the IROK.

You asked about my fridge. I have the standard Roadtrek fridge that comes in their Promaster models. It is a 5 cf Norcold that is only 12v. I love the large size and the fact that it isn't sitting on the floor. (and with no propane, no leveling) Many people have no issue running the fridge with one 12v AGM - and these rigs normally come with the underhood generator (2nd large alternator hooked to house batteries) so you can idle for 20 or so minutes and top it off for the night. I took the option of adding a second 12v (Group 31) and I have 270w of solar. I can go indefinitely running the fridge, lights, charge my electronics, and either the fan or 12v mattress pad (whichever is needed). And if it's very cloudy, I just need to idle with the UHG to top up.

Perfect.

I didn't realise Roadtrek actually produced any models with UHG - very smart - has your unit been reliable or did you experience issues that some other owners did with the UHG (I don't know if they were Roadtrek owners or not though).

How long have you used your Bunk Warmer?

Did you own it with your earlier model 170?

If so, what sort of Battery Bank did you have then?

Are you aware of how much power your DC Fridge uses?

Do you have a Battery Monitor like the Victron BMV712 or the other manufacturers?

Would you recommend the Electrowarmth Bunk Warmer as a Stand Alone unit for cold camping or as an adjunctive role to the furnace, etc?

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by mumkin

.....

You asked about my fridge. I have the standard Roadtrek fridge that comes in their Promaster models. It is a 5 cf Norcold that is only 12v. .....these rigs normally come with the underhood generator (2nd large alternator hooked to house batteries)

.....

I asked about your fridge because in a plain-vanilla van configuration, your electrical loading scenario wasn't adding up. Second alternator explains it.

Once again, this is an example of a specific van configuration for which a resistive heating option might make sense. But most off-gridders do not have a UHG, and for many of them, it would not make any sense at all.


There's another option that I don't believe anyone has mentioned on this thread yet - solid fuel heating. It's messy and labor-intensive but it might fit certain travel scenarios and certain user preferences.

For instance, let's say that I had to make a trip to Canada next week. Well, screw my life - that would mean yet another 2 weeks in van quarantine. Here's the headwork on my heating options in that scenario:

(1) Propane would insufficient due to capacity limitations that I have never been able to overcome in my Class B model (any problem can be resolved with enough money, but my available options don't make financial sense). I have a propane furnace and could run it, but I don't think it would be enough for 2 unbroken weeks of cold weather plus cooking.

(2) Resistive is out of the question because all electrical capacity would need to be reserved for the fridge.

(3) Solar meets my recharge demand in the summer, but the sun is only rising 40 degrees above the horizon right now, and only briefly. Furthermore, my property in Canada is marching toward winter, so sunny days are less frequent. Solar alone cannot get the recharge job done at this time of year.

(4) Therefore, I'd need to idle my engine periodically to recharge my house battery. But I would want to minimize that because I only have one alternator and there's the issue of wear, especially on the clutch pulley. And there's the question about idling a Sprinter and the impact on the engine of not driving for weeks at a time (explanation omitted for brevity). My idling would need to be done for my fridge, not for any other purpose, so as to not over-use it.

(5) By process of elimination, I have two workable options for in-van heating in this scenario:

-- A diesel-tapping heater of the type previously mentioned on this thread. Logically it can be argued that this would be the best option (and I personally believe so).

-- A micro-stove that accepts solid fuel. From a functional perspective, the amount of seasoned wood I have available on my property is infinite. The heating fuel is right there in front of me, if I could find a way to capitalize on it.

The issue would be, how to install either a marine stove or a "dry land" stove in a way that would make sense within the context of our wider usage patterns? Most such installations are permanent, which wouldn't work for us because most of our travel is in warm weather, and I would not want even a micro-stove eating valuable space. So it would need to be a swappable in-out option for us, which is a technical challenge that I have never been motivated to solve. Yet.

Here's an example of a contender - the Cub Cubic Mini.

Edit: It has crossed my mind that a solid fuel stove pipe might be combinable with an improved cooking vent, for which there's another thread currently in progress.

[mumkin]

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Perfect.

I didn't realise Roadtrek actually produced any models with UHG - very smart - has your unit been reliable or did you experience issues that some other owners did with the UHG (I don't know if they were Roadtrek owners or not though).

Starting in 2015, Roadtrek made it an option, and in about a year, nearly all of the rigs came with them. They are supplied by Nations Starter in Missouri. Most were connected to their "voltstart" system that automatically starts (a max of 5 times) the engine if the battery level goes down to a set voltage... which is useful if you need to leave a pet alone for a spell or want to run the AC over night. There was a learning curve when it first came out... for Roadtrek's installation and users. Some of the early Promaster installs had issues with the belt hitting a coolant hose. I avoided the voltstart, but have had two UHGs. It is certainly highly preferable to the Onan... no exercising and no service required.

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

How long have you used your Bunk Warmer?

Did you own it with your earlier model 170?

If so, what sort of Battery Bank did you have then?

I bought the bunkwarmer in 2011 and have used it as needed since. I have also stuck to the simplicity of 2 AGMs which have no problem with taking care of my needs.

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Are you aware of how much power your DC Fridge uses?

Do you have a Battery Monitor like the Victron BMV712 or the other manufacturers?

Nary a clue. LOL If I was boondocking full time rather than occasionally, I would likely pay attention to such, but I pretty much know what I am using versus my batteries' limits without paying much attention to the math of it all. If it has been a sunny day, I know I'm good with the solar... if it has been cloudy, I idle the engine for 20-30 minutes to top off the batteries before bed.

Originally Posted by themexicandoctor

Would you recommend the Electrowarmth Bunk Warmer as a Stand Alone unit for cold camping or as an adjunctive role to the furnace, etc?

That would depend on one's cold tolerance... and how cold it is. I never run the furnace at night while sleeping, as the stopping and starting wakes me up. LOL I would definitely require both as I prefer to be comfortable.